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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was coming back from a road trip and my car started doing this.
I changed the fuel filter RIGHT before i went on my 300 mile trip. When i got back i had my neighbor break out the catalytic converter (1st one attached to manifold)
New MAF sensor
I'm stumped, please help
Here's a video that best describes it.
02 Kia Rio Problems, PLEASE HELP - YouTube
 

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2002 Kia Rio, 2011 Kia Sorento 2005 f 250 1996 geo metro 1992 f 150
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Maybe a tps issue or ecm malfunction. Anyhow your car wont run well without the first cat that's the only one monitored by the o2 sensors it could wack out the ecm. your best bet would have been to disconnect the pipe between the two cat's and see if that helped while running. http://www.kiatechinfo.com/ for service material and schematics and etm's. Good luck with it been there and done that at 134k my 2nd cat was blocked and had the same symtoms. Good luck with it and why doesn't your scanner read the codes. Reguard's Ronjohn
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I was coming back from a road trip and my car started doing this.
I changed the fuel filter RIGHT before i went on my 300 mile trip. When i got back i had my neighbor break out the catalytic converter (1st one attached to manifold)
New MAF sensor
I'm stumped, please help
Here's a video that best describes it.
02 Kia Rio Problems, PLEASE HELP - YouTube
bumping this thread
 

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Your Check Engine Light is on - hookup a code reader/scanner and post some DTC codes..

Your fuel tank is on (E), add some fuel..
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Your Check Engine Light is on - hookup a code reader/scanner and post some DTC codes..

Your fuel tank is on (E), add some fuel..
It throws a different code every time we run the DTC. also has trouble communicating with the ECM.

Side note: I swapped the Throttle body out for a known working one today and it's still acting the same.
 

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You're throwing parts at it - without (some) kind of DTC codes to help narrow the issue, we would be guessing, just like you are now..

+1 on ronjohn's recommendation of disconnecting at the 2nd (main) cat and testing for positive effect / confirming there is no exhaust restriction down-line from the (cleared) primary cat..

re: ECM comm. troubles / different DTC codes - highly recommend you first confirm good vehicle voltage, before proceeding further, e.g. "chasing ghosts"..

With a digital multimeter:

Engine Off, key out:

confirm good battery voltage directly at battery (engine off, key out), s/b 12.5 - 13.2 volts,

confirm good grounding at motor, pos. probe on Battery (+) terminal, neg. probe at good ground point on motor, should be within .1 volt of direct battery voltage,

confirm good power to pass. cabin fuse box: select a fuse with +12v, pos. probe to fuse box, neg. probe to good ground point in pass. cabin, should be within .5 volt of direct battery voltage reading,

--
Engine On, key in:

With all accessories off, confirm battery voltage remains steady,

With load on electrical system, e.g. headlights on, pass cabin blower motor on, confirm charging system is working correctly, direct batt. voltage reading should be in the range of 13.8 - 14.2 volts,

--
** Confirm there is a good ground strap between neg. battery ground point, and ground point on motor..

--
Highly recommend inspecting -each- fuse on the engine compartment fuse box and pass. cabin fuse box, testing each for continuity,

Highly recommend disconnecting battery, and removing / inspecting / cleaning the blades of each Relay, and re-inserting, *** Note, this will (erase) any stored Stereo / Power Seat / Stored DTC codes - make sure you have the stereo (security code) to reprogram, if needed,

Fuel delivery:
--
If no joy on electrical Q/A, then suggest hooking up a fuel pressure tester gauge at the fuel rail - make sure fuel delivery is in-spec,

Air/Intake:
--
Hookup a vacuum gauge at the intake manifold, make sure engine vacuum is in-spec, and steady (ronjohn's recommendation above..)

--
re: DTC codes different - Without -specific DTC codes-, best I can offer is the general suggestions above, e.g. Q/A good power to body/frame/motor and components/sensors, Q/A exhaust for no restriction, Q/A fuel delivery is in-spec, Q/A motor vacuum is as expected,

Without DTC codes and some (basic) live data readings, just guessin' ..


Regards,
GottaCruise
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
You're throwing parts at it - without (some) kind of DTC codes to help narrow the issue, we would be guessing, just like you are now..

+1 on ronjohn's recommendation of disconnecting at the 2nd (main) cat and testing for positive effect / confirming there is no exhaust restriction down-line from the (cleared) primary cat..

re: ECM comm. troubles / different DTC codes - highly recommend you first confirm good vehicle voltage, before proceeding further, e.g. "chasing ghosts"..

With a digital multimeter:

Engine Off, key out:

confirm good battery voltage directly at battery (engine off, key out), s/b 12.5 - 13.2 volts,

confirm good grounding at motor, pos. probe on Battery (+) terminal, neg. probe at good ground point on motor, should be within .1 volt of direct battery voltage,

confirm good power to pass. cabin fuse box: select a fuse with +12v, pos. probe to fuse box, neg. probe to good ground point in pass. cabin, should be within .5 volt of direct battery voltage reading,

--
Engine On, key in:

With all accessories off, confirm battery voltage remains steady,

With load on electrical system, e.g. headlights on, pass cabin blower motor on, confirm charging system is working correctly, direct batt. voltage reading should be in the range of 13.8 - 14.2 volts,

--
** Confirm there is a good ground strap between neg. battery ground point, and ground point on motor..

--
Highly recommend inspecting -each- fuse on the engine compartment fuse box and pass. cabin fuse box, testing each for continuity,

Highly recommend disconnecting battery, and removing / inspecting / cleaning the blades of each Relay, and re-inserting, *** Note, this will (erase) any stored Stereo / Power Seat / Stored DTC codes - make sure you have the stereo (security code) to reprogram, if needed,

Fuel delivery:
--
If no joy on electrical Q/A, then suggest hooking up a fuel pressure tester gauge at the fuel rail - make sure fuel delivery is in-spec,

Air/Intake:
--
Hookup a vacuum gauge at the intake manifold, make sure engine vacuum is in-spec, and steady (ronjohn's recommendation above..)

--
re: DTC codes different - Without -specific DTC codes-, best I can offer is the general suggestions above, e.g. Q/A good power to body/frame/motor and components/sensors, Q/A exhaust for no restriction, Q/A fuel delivery is in-spec, Q/A motor vacuum is as expected,

Without DTC codes and some (basic) live data readings, just guessin' ..


Regards,
GottaCruise
Update:
-Changed fuel pump
-fuel filter
-checked valve timing (dead on)
-fuel pressure is good
-exhaust flow is good
-compression test 122psi across the board.


This has made me come to the conclusion that the ECU is fucking up
So i'm gonna go get one from the u pull.
 

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It's possible that you have an ECU issue, but would then re-Q/A ignition components: test coil pack(s) for resistance values, re-verify spark plug wire hookup / firing order, check for good (+12V) voltage at the coil pack lead, before investing in a replacement ECU..

Regards,
GottaCruise
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It's possible that you have an ECU issue, but would then re-Q/A ignition components: test coil pack(s) for resistance values, re-verify spark plug wire hookup / firing order, check for good (+12V) voltage at the coil pack lead, before investing in a replacement ECU..

Regards,
GottaCruise
It revs up fine when you're holding the throttle open and spray starting fluid in it. that proves there's nothing wrong with the coil packs or firing order.
 

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It revs up fine when you're holding the throttle open and spray starting fluid in it. that proves there's nothing wrong with the coil packs or firing order.
It just proves the vehicle can rev w/o load at WOT, but still needs assistance (Ether) to do so..

If you want to find the problem, you really should do some basic visual, electrical / resistance testing..

But if $$$ are not an issue, go ahead and try a replacement ECM, see if that helps.

Wish you good luck on the repair,
GottaCruise
 
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