Newbie to resurrect 2014 Soul! - Kia Forum

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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-06-2019, 01:23 AM Thread Starter
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Newbie to resurrect 2014 Soul!

Hey All,

I just picked up a super clean loaded 2014 Soul Exclaim with about 50k on the clock that needs a new engine. The previous owner drove it with a loose coolant cap and did some very serious damage. Water that is poured into the radiator filler seems to be going directly into the oil.

I'm thinking the easiest fix will be to pick up a used engine and do a swap. The price I got it for easily justifies buying a low mile engine at what appears to be something in the $2500 range

Looks like the recommended way to do this is to drop the subframe with both the engine and transaxle ... not so easy to do in a home garage with no lift. Has anyone pulled a 2.0L out of a PS Soul from above without messing with the subframe? I've seen only one video on YouTube detailing such an engine swap on a Soul - but it's on a 2012 model which I know is the previous generation.

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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-06-2019, 11:28 AM
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You have a blown head gasket and it would probably be much cheaper to replace it and either check the head surface to make sure it is still flat or have it ground flat... or look for a used head off of a car that had engine damage from a wreck (car-part.com)... Do not reuse the head bolts as they are torque to yield and can only be used once... Drain the coolant and the oil and flush the radiator and engine... Replace the oil and filter... run the engine for a short time (like 50 miles) drain replace the oil and filter again... You should have a good engine...
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-06-2019, 02:43 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks! That sounds like a good place to start at least. A head looks to be in the $250 range ... less than 10% of the price of a used engine.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-07-2019, 12:13 PM
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I'm always looking for ways around the high price cars and car parts...
My family and extended family drives car I rebuilt from salvage (iaai.com...copart.com)...

I say "you don't drive the salvage title you drive the car" and no one will ever ask...

My wife drives a 2014 KIA Optima 2.4L that had 54k miles on it and we have under $3500 in it...

My latest is a 2016 Chrysler 200s with 45k miles that was hit in the front... I'll have under $5700 in a car selling for $14000...

I put a 2.7L V6 in a 2008 Hyundai Tiburon that had the engine go in water (hydro-locked)... I got the engine from a local "pull-a-part" with all the accessories (Alternator/Starter/Power Steering pump/AC pump) from a 2004 Hyundai Sonata for $250 out the door... I had to pull the engine but for that price it was worth it... That car is my wife's Summer play toy...

If you need any help we are here but sometimes may take a day or two to answer (working outside during the Summer months)...
Dave
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-07-2019, 01:17 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavesSpectra View Post
I'm always looking for ways around the high price cars and car parts...
My family and extended family drives car I rebuilt from salvage (iaai.com...copart.com)...

I say "you don't drive the salvage title you drive the car" and no one will ever ask...

My wife drives a 2014 KIA Optima 2.4L that had 54k miles on it and we have under $3500 in it...

My latest is a 2016 Chrysler 200s with 45k miles that was hit in the front... I'll have under $5700 in a car selling for $14000...

I put a 2.7L V6 in a 2008 Hyundai Tiburon that had the engine go in water (hydro-locked)... I got the engine from a local "pull-a-part" with all the accessories (Alternator/Starter/Power Steering pump/AC pump) from a 2004 Hyundai Sonata for $250 out the door... I had to pull the engine but for that price it was worth it... That car is my wife's Summer play toy...

If you need any help we are here but sometimes may take a day or two to answer (working outside during the Summer months)...
Dave
Thanks Dave,

Rather amazingly, this one is going to cost me a grand total of the parts I put into it and the tax and registration. I was being a good Samaritan and helped out an elderly couple on the side of the road. After realizing the engine is going to need significant work the gentleman thanked me for helping he and his wife and putting them up in a comfortable place for several hours on a hot Texas day. He handed me the keys saying he wasn't going to put any money into it. I was more than a bit shocked but very thankful ... I've got a few cars in the yard, but all of them have between 150000 and 240000 miles on them!

Once I have the title in hand I think I'll start off with getting a new gasket set and simply removing the head and seeing what it looks like ... that looks like a fairly simple procedure.

kisouman DOT com/cylinder_head_removal-970.html

In the meantime I think I'm going to drain the oil and coolant and get that out of the system.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-13-2019, 03:02 PM Thread Starter
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Putting almost no money into it (a couple of quarts of ATF) I've got the head pulled out and I'm waiting for the title to arrive. I turned the crank to bring the cylinders to mid stroke and filled them up to the rim with the ATF.

If the ATF level stays where it's at for a couple of days then the rings and the block/cylinders should be ok. It's been sitting here for a few hours and the level is still fine so I'm hopeful that the lower end is good.

Once I have the title in hand I'll have the head checked out and cleaned up or replaced if it's cracked from the heat.

One thing I noticed as I was taking it apart is that this engine is somewhat different than the one pictured in the on-line manual I cited in my earlier post.

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-13-2019, 04:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RevMS View Post
Putting almost no money into it (a couple of quarts of ATF) I've got the head pulled out and I'm waiting for the title to arrive. I turned the crank to bring the cylinders to mid stroke and filled them up to the rim with the ATF.

If the ATF level stays where it's at for a couple of days then the rings and the block/cylinders should be ok. It's been sitting here for a few hours and the level is still fine so I'm hopeful that the lower end is good.

Once I have the title in hand I'll have the head checked out and cleaned up or replaced if it's cracked from the heat.

One thing I noticed as I was taking it apart is that this engine is somewhat different than the one pictured in the on-line manual I cited in my earlier post.
Depending on how severe the overheat, the piston rings can become annealed, and not long after the rebuild the engine starts burning oil. Got to roll the dice doing the extra work now, or take a chance and you get lucky and don't start burning oil after a few thousand miles.

Quality and not quantity counts.

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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-13-2019, 04:25 PM
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If the head and block are both "true" (flat, not warped) you may have a very inexpensive "soul"
They don't look bad but they need checked...
Hope it's your lucky day...
Dave
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-13-2019, 09:16 PM Thread Starter
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Depending on how severe the overheat, the piston rings can become annealed, and not long after the rebuild the engine starts burning oil. Got to roll the dice doing the extra work now, or take a chance and you get lucky and don't start burning oil after a few thousand miles.
The wet leakdown test with the ATF sitting in the cylinders for a few days "should" show me if there's a problem with the rings. If that's the case, I'll just go the used engine route. Having taken it apart this far and looked at what kind of clearances I have on all sides of the engine, I'm pretty sure that I can pull the old block and drop the "new" engine (with no intake or exhaust manifold attached) in from the top.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DavesSpectra View Post
If the head and block are both "true" (flat, not warped) you may have a very inexpensive "soul"
They don't look bad but they need checked...
Hope it's your lucky day...
Dave
I'm getting a good straight edge to lay across the block at several angles and see if the top is true. The head will be going to a trusted local engine machine shop to check for cracks, probably clean up any slight warping that may have occurred, and give the valves a good cleaning - since they are coated in carbon deposits (and some rust from being exposed to the coolant) this is a good time to get them cleaned up!
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 05:50 PM Thread Starter
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Well, it looks like I'm going to be in the market for a new engine. 1,3, and 4 are holding up well, but cylinder 2 is down about a " in less than 24 hours.

Pretty sure it would run but it would be an oil burner.

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