I am digging into a power door lock problem on my daughter's 2012 Kia Soul. The doors intermittently (rarely) unlock using any of the interior door switches -- as well as the key fob. I am referring to all doors EXCEPT the driver's door. That works...as well as the door lock functions.
So far, I'm finding posts (on the net and in this forum) that lead me to believe Kia was DUMB enough to hardwire a door unlock relay into the fuse (junction) box. If true, I'm already super-pissed! This alone negates a growing infinity for Kia versus Toyota -- in terms of perceived reliability/design -- but I digress! LOL
My best guess -- after looking at door lock schematics and preliminary testing is that the "2-turn door unlock relay" is going bad. It can be seen in this diagram....
When working properly, a 2012 Soul requires a second push of the key fob to unlock passenger doors and hatchback. I am interpreting the "2-turn door unlock relay" as the component that triggers the lock/unlock actuators in each door (and hatch). When this relay malfunctions, the doors/hatch do not unlock. And, without a key unlock for the hatch, the idiocy of Kia's design becomes apparent: The hatch won't open, can't be opened with a key, and the repair cost exceeds $1300! That's because Kia charges 10 hours to replace the junction box.
As a preliminary test, I jumped a second battery to her car. The unlock function worked better...but still intermittently. My conclusion is the higher current (from 2nd battery) increased chances of the "2-turn unlock relay" of actuating. I could surmise a ground/wiring issues TO that relay but everything else works. I would suspect common ground AND the thing is reportedly hard-wired into the junction box -- from what I gather.
Having just graduated from college (with loans), you can appreciate not wanting to spend $1300 to replace the junction box -- nor can I afford to do that for her. However, I claim to be "clever and handy".
My thought is to bypass the 2-turn unlock relay with a new relay. It would sit outside the junction box and be triggered by the "door unlock relay" -- which I presume to be the driver's door unlock relay. If successful, ALL doors would unlock as originally wired though a single-press of the key fob would also unlock all doors. This is acceptable -- in lieu of the alternative....e.g., spending $1300 OR replacing the junction box myself!!!!
This thread (in another forum) shows some wiring for the addition of keyless entry. I'm looking for supplemental information....and need it within a couple of days. My daughter is moving out-of-state so I hope to affect repairs quickly. My hope is to identify the correct wires to install an outboard relay.
Here is my goal:
Please help me identify which wires to cut/spice in order to add an outboard relay. In post #11
(of the UNLINKABLE, NEW POSTER RULING I HAD TO REMOVE), the pic showed WHAT I BELIEVE may be the correct blue/orange, red/orange, and brown (brown/white?) wires used to ground the energizing side of the door relays. My idea is to ground a new, outboard relay using the "signal" from the blue/orange door unlock relay (going under the assumption this is the driver's door unlock relay). The slave side of the relay is where I'm less clear.....
In the main pic for this thread, there are 3 "legs" to the slave side of the "2-turn relay": Blue, Black and power. I haven't figured this out yet. Please identify these wires and how you think the actuators are energized by the slave side of the relay? (This would include saying what each of the blue, black, and power terminals are for?
Thanks! (FWIW, I also joined the Soul forum but need to be "accepted" before posting there).