2007 Kia Spectra EVAP Troubles - Page 2 - Kia Forum

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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-08-2018, 12:50 PM Thread Starter
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FYI, I now have the fuel tank on the workbench, I have disassembled the ECS attached to it. The air filter had grunches of dust in it; last time I just blew it out, this time I have replaced it. I have tested the CCV and it seems to work fine (also gave it a thorough cleaning). I have attempted to "recondition" the charcoal canister by alterenately blowing fresh air in and vacuuming out (using low pressure) to hopefully restore its fuel vapor absorbing ability a little bit.

The air filter was cheap; new CCV solenoid is expensive (would rather not replace if possible), so what I am hoping is that maybe it got dirty and leaked a little and now it is OK. Only other concern is that a service manual I found says the CCV solenoid should be 23-26 ohms, mine reads 20 (is that enough for ECM to trigger a fault? I would guess not). It is the original factory CCV (I have had the car since it had 12,000 miles - now has over 200,000 miles.

The only thing I have not done is rung out the wiring of the CCV 12V and ECM control wiring (see previous post).

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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-08-2018, 09:46 PM
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Hi rev_daddy_sp...
I have read where over filling the gas tank can cause problems with this valve and also the carbon canister...
I have also read where these valves just get stuck either open or closed...
You might want to check the connections on this valve also as it is under the car and subject to corrosion from water and salt being thrown in that area...
Dave
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-11-2018, 05:10 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavesSpectra View Post
...
... over filling the gas tank can cause problems ...
... just get stuck ...
... check the connections ...
.
I also have heard that repeated overfillings can be damaging - thinking this to be true on almost any modern car.

I didn't test the valve/solenoid until I had already taken it apart; it is quite possible it may have been sticking before - after I cleaned everything up, it worked (tested) like a champ.

I have not yet put it all back together (been cold and rainy last few days), but I am scrutinizing the electrical connections - they looked pretty good when I first disconnected them and there were no obvious broken wires. Since I have had this problem a couple of times before and never found any real hard cause/source of problem (other than possible contamination), I have manufactured a test pigtail right at the input to the solenoid that I can hook a meter or a power source up to to help troubleshoot the electrical part. -- I have learned that the 12V wire coming to the CCV solenoid is fused at the same fuse that feeds the injectors and is labelled "INJ" in the fuse box; so that one is easy to follow/test. The other wire that goes to the ECM is tougher; I haven't yet learned what pin of the ECM it goes to (or what color the wire is) (but I think the ECM is on the floor under the dash near or under the console, I haven't put my hands on it yet). I want to be able to make an overlay harness in case it starts to look like there is a wiring problem between the CCV solenoid and the power/control. Hopefully, the ECM itself is not at fault.

I still would like to know when or under what circumstances/conditions the ECS does the leak test (i.e., closes the CCV), because I can hook a noid light up to my new pigtail to verify that a proper activation signal is getting to the CCV solenoid.
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-18-2018, 04:28 PM Thread Starter
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OK. All back together now. Seems to be working fine. I have been driving for almost 5 days now, maybe a total of about 200 miles, and probably about 15 drive cycles and no more MIL. I have filled up the gas tank once since fixing, and it filled nicely without any restriction (but that never was a problem). Once again, it seems that cleaning the gunk out (and this time replacing the contaminated fuel tank air filter) fixed it.

There is something new that is a little bothersome. Now, occasionally, it is a tiny bit hard to start on the first try. Every once in a while, it will act like fuel is not immediately getting to the cylinders and it will take 2-3 seconds of cranking to get it to start up. And then even more infrequently it may stall out after starting, as if it were starved for fuel. But always a second attempt to start and it starts right up with a 1/2 second of cranking, just like it always used to do.

So far, it has never failed to start, and more often than not, it still fires right up on the first try. But that 25-30% of the time that it seems to falter a bit at first leaves me wondering, what has changed or what could I have done to create this. It is possible that a new and completely coincidental problem has occurred.

Any thoughts???

P.S. I did find a wiring diagram in a factory service manual that I didn't know I had - the switch side of CCV goes to pin 79 of the ECM.

P.P.S. I forgot to mention, that it makes no difference whether the engine is hot, worm or cold, seems very random. Also, I did disconnect the battery for about 20 minutes to fix a battery terminal right after putting it all back together - maybe it is still in "learn" mode ???

Last edited by rev_daddy_sp; 02-18-2018 at 04:44 PM. Reason: one more thing
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-26-2018, 01:44 PM
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Sounds like one way check valve on fuel pump. Simple test is first thing in morning, turn the ignition on, wait 3 seconds, turn ignition off, then on agin for 3 seconds and then crank the engine. This builds up fuel pressure, and if it fires right up, that's the issue. Live with it or change the pump, which is real simle on these cars under the back seat.
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