Spectra5 2006 Manual trans right side axle boot leak - Kia Forum
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-21-2019, 09:35 AM Thread Starter
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Spectra5 2006 Manual trans right side axle boot leak

Recently purchased car for daughter with this as a known issue to repair. While the outer has leaked grease it is not yet showing signs of the clunking bad CV joint.

Can some of you that have either paid to have done or did it yourself give me your opinion on what you did?

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1. New boots, basically home reman ( anyone use EMPI boot kits?)
I have to admit not owning many front wheel drives I have never done a CV axle rebuild but it seems easy enough, any hints on what it take to remove the outer CV joint from axle shaft would be good to know. The main reason I am leaning toward this is that I know I have a right size part that is not causing any vibrations.

2. New axle installed with reman or new manufactured parts either at home or take to shop.

If you have bad or good experience with a particular brand name part that would be a plus.

I have spent a few hours and read all kinds of opinions based on all kinds of cars but not much directly on the spectra or spectra5.

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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-21-2019, 10:05 AM
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We have an 09 Spectra(automatic)...same car other than rear body design and trans. CV boots tearing are a common happening on any make vehicle that is FWD. Some axle designs are easier to disassemble than others, BUT With the prices of reman shaft/joints having dropped in price for most applications I suggest replacing the whole axle assemblies. I strongly recommend checking out rockauto.com, I use them for almost all my parts needs and have been very happy with them.
I also suggest you inspect the motor and trans. mounts, as I've read a few threads here of manual models having them go bad(my opinion from "spirited" driving).
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-23-2019, 08:24 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by MIA KIA 09 View Post
We have an 09 Spectra(automatic)...same car other than rear body design and trans. CV boots tearing are a common happening on any make vehicle that is FWD. Some axle designs are easier to disassemble than others, BUT With the prices of reman shaft/joints having dropped in price for most applications I suggest replacing the whole axle assemblies. I strongly recommend checking out rockauto.com, I use them for almost all my parts needs and have been very happy with them.
I also suggest you inspect the motor and trans. mounts, as I've read a few threads here of manual models having them go bad(my opinion from "spirited" driving).
Do you have any experience with a name brand of axle that held up well long term for you. I know the price is low on the parts due to the Chinese manufacturing of cv axles.

The reman axles are use all the original joint unless they show excessive wear from what I can read, so probably no better than me putting on boots as I have a known part now.

I know the oem on there now is smooth, and didn't want to do the job twice. Not so much a money thing but what is best thing short of buying the OEM at over $400
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-23-2019, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by patricktxfl View Post
Do you have any experience with a name brand of axle that held up well long term for you. I know the price is low on the parts due to the Chinese manufacturing of cv axles.

The reman axles are use all the original joint unless they show excessive wear from what I can read, so probably no better than me putting on boots as I have a known part now.

I know the oem on there now is smooth, and didn't want to do the job twice. Not so much a money thing but what is best thing short of buying the OEM at over $400
I can not tell you what particular "brand" to buy thru them, as we have not needed to repair/replace even the boots on ours. I do KNOW that the work involved for most DIY'rs is much easier to replace the whole shaft assembly rather than doing the disassembly,cleaning and inspecting and then reassembly on your own.
In my opinion, you are "straining at gnats" in your thinking, as all parts are inspected and at worst scenario the actual shaft is reused. As for "continued "balance" of the assembly...I seriously doubt that could come into play to the level of your concern.
You asked for opinion/knowledge...I have offered mine. It is up to you to decide what to do...The car is in your care, not mine...Good Luck, and keep in touch as you and your daughter enjoy your Kia!
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-23-2019, 10:11 AM
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Pretty straight forward replacing the CV/half axle shaft...If you don't mind the black grease and the mess a boot replacement is fine...Spray the lower strut with white or light color paint so alignment is OK after reassembling... The axle nut is a 32mm and a long breaker bar (on the ground and move the car to break it free or a 1/2" impact wrench (an electric one from Harbor Freight works well $39 with 20% off coupon) ...
The CV shaft will come loose with just prying it with a long screwdriver or pry bar right where it goes into the transmission and it will snap in with a few impacts from the end of the new CV shaft...

Be sure to know if you have a manual or automatic transmission, ABS or normal brakes, and also the date of manufacture (on the driver door sill) as this should guarantee the proper axle... Check the splines on the transmission end to make sure that they match...

I have replaced struts on my Spectras and this requires just about the same procedure...
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-03-2019, 02:34 PM Thread Starter
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Pretty straight forward replacing the CV/half axle shaft...If you don't mind the black grease and the mess a boot replacement is fine...Spray the lower strut with white or light color paint so alignment is OK after reassembling... The axle nut is a 32mm and a long breaker bar (on the ground and move the car to break it free or a 1/2" impact wrench (an electric one from Harbor Freight works well $39 with 20% off coupon) ...
The CV shaft will come loose with just prying it with a long screwdriver or pry bar right where it goes into the transmission and it will snap in with a few impacts from the end of the new CV shaft...

Be sure to know if you have a manual or automatic transmission, ABS or normal brakes, and also the date of manufacture (on the driver door sill) as this should guarantee the proper axle... Check the splines on the transmission end to make sure that they match...

I have replaced struts on my Spectras and this requires just about the same procedure...
Dave
Thank for the info, sounds like it shouldn't be too hard. I have the impact tools.

Do you have a good step by step that is how you do yours? I was reading a few different articles on what to remove in relation to strut, and ball joint.....

I also wanted to have a new trans side seal on hand, do you always change them?

I ordered a new axle online was supposed to be an FEQ, however when I opened to examine I see a GSP stamp on the boot band, and on one end the boot band clamp isn't on straight.

Keep reading bad reviews on the new axles having vibrations so maybe I should be considering getting an OEM boot set and doing a rebuild. More work and time as well as money, but wonder if better to keep the OEM axle.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-03-2019, 11:33 PM
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I jack up the car and support it on stands I then remove the brake caliper/pads and disconnect the ABS sensor (if you have one) You will need a 32mm socket for the axle nut... Remove the nut and reinstall it long enough to tap on the axle shaft.. Remove the nut...then you remove the two bolts on the bottom of the shock/strut and tap the spindle away from the strut... this should give you access to the half shaft/ CV axle... Fit a large flat blade screwdriver or pry bar right where the axle goes into the transmission and pry the axle away from the tranny... It may take a few tries... There is a circular ring that has to be compressed to release the axle...You will understand what I'm saying when the axle is out... The axle assembly is pretty short and balance should not be an issue... The number of splines on both ends is much more critical... If you wish to rebuild the old shaft and it hasn't started making noise then replacing the boots may make sense to you but be aware it IS a very messy job... The only thing I can remember about the job was it was hard to get the upper spindle back on the two strut bolts and a second person forcing the spindle down would be a welcome help... When you get them close together put a screwdriver shaft into the lower hole and use it to align the upper blot hole and inset the upper bolt...Then the lower bolt will be much easier to align... Reverse the above steps to reassemble the car...
Dave
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-04-2019, 04:58 AM
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When I did the front hub bearings (hub still on the car), I just removed the lower ball joint nut and popped the stud from the knuckle and swung the whole strut assembly out of the way and had plenty of clearance to slide out the axle shaft at both ends in the manner that Daves Spectra described,after removing brake caliper/rotor. Since I was doing the job one side at a time, I only jacked up and and used jack stands for for that side, kept trans lube loss to a minimum. I also turned the wheel full opposite of the side I was working on, worked quite well for me.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-04-2019, 03:32 PM Thread Starter
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I jack up the car and support it on stands I then remove the brake caliper/pads and disconnect the ABS sensor (if you have one) You will need a 32mm socket for the axle nut... Remove the nut and reinstall it long enough to tap on the axle shaft.. Remove the nut...then you remove the two bolts on the bottom of the shock/strut and tap the spindle away from the strut... this should give you access to the half shaft/ CV axle... Fit a large flat blade screwdriver or pry bar right where the axle goes into the transmission and pry the axle away from the tranny... It may take a few tries... There is a circular ring that has to be compressed to release the axle...You will understand what I'm saying when the axle is out... The axle assembly is pretty short and balance should not be an issue... The number of splines on both ends is much more critical... If you wish to rebuild the old shaft and it hasn't started making noise then replacing the boots may make sense to you but be aware it IS a very messy job... The only thing I can remember about the job was it was hard to get the upper spindle back on the two strut bolts and a second person forcing the spindle down would be a welcome help... When you get them close together put a screwdriver shaft into the lower hole and use it to align the upper blot hole and inset the upper bolt...Then the lower bolt will be much easier to align... Reverse the above steps to reassemble the car...
Dave
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Originally Posted by MIA KIA 09 View Post
When I did the front hub bearings (hub still on the car), I just removed the lower ball joint nut and popped the stud from the knuckle and swung the whole strut assembly out of the way and had plenty of clearance to slide out the axle shaft at both ends in the manner that Daves Spectra described,after removing brake caliper/rotor. Since I was doing the job one side at a time, I only jacked up and and used jack stands for for that side, kept trans lube loss to a minimum. I also turned the wheel full opposite of the side I was working on, worked quite well for me.
Okay to confirm this is why I guess I have been some what confused there is two ways to approach axle removal.

The primary way Dave does it is to separate the strut, that is all it take to swing out of the way for axle removal.

The primary way Mia does it is to separate the lower ball joint to swing out of the way for axle removal.

My initial guess is the strut is easy enough to separate and less likely to cause damage to anything else.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-04-2019, 03:44 PM
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Okay to confirm this is why I guess I have been some what confused there is two ways to approach axle removal.

The primary way Dave does it is to separate the strut, that is all it take to swing out of the way for axle removal.

The primary way Mia does it is to separate the lower ball joint to swing out of the way for axle removal.

My initial guess is the strut is easy enough to separate and less likely to cause damage to anything else.
YES, there is more than one way to "skin a cat"! It is no skin off my nose on what way you decide to work on your Kia. Personally I like the way I did mine, the "risks" are no different, as th ball joint and the outer joint will be subjected to extreme angles the way DaveSpectra explained too. A rap with a hammer to the side of the knuckle near the ball joint stud will release the wedge fit, once the nut is removed and the same pry bar (or large screwdriver) used to pop the inner joint free can be also used to bring down the lower control arm end so the ball joint stud clears the knuckle. I've done many many FWD's for similar work and I've found this easiest for me...Do as you wish, and enjoy the experience doing it.
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