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I'm in Canada, and have Canadian 2015 SX+, so all prices are in Canadian dollars.
MSRP for KIA hitch/harness package from a dealer is $293.03 + $93.26 + HST = $436.50. This price doesn't include any potential discounts (about 10%), and also does not include installation charges. I guess the total package installed by a dealer can be done for under $600 in Canada
I ordered Curt hitch and harness from partsengine.ca. It was delivered two days later by FedEx, and I managed to install it in about four hours. Total cost $277.65. Includes hitch and harness, taxes, and shipping (free).
If you're considering a towing package for your Sedona then DIY option is totally viable. If you can change your own oil and brakes then hitch install is also something that can be done in a few hours on your own driveway. Best thing is that absolutely no drilling is necessary, and Sedona already has two connectors for the hitch harness in the rear driver side well - you just plug it in, and that's it!
I have no prior experience with hitch installation, and never owned a car with one.
Curt hitch is a perfect fit - https://www.partsengine.ca/p-57986-c...r-hitches.aspx
Curt harness - https://www.partsengine.ca/p-58466-c...connector.aspx
. The picture shown is wrong. Curt harness part # is 56151. This is apparently also the same harness as on Hyundai SantaFe 13-15, Veracruz 07-12, and Kia Sorento 07-09 & 11-16. So this means you can potentially find it cheaper from other aftermarket makers if listed for these other cars. Don't even bother thinking about making your own connections - totally not worth it, and hard to moisture-proof, just buy the ready-made harness for direct and proper fit.
Curt installation instructions state that it's necessary to disconnect four rubber muffler links to lower the muffler to get access to the mounting holes, which are already there. I found it that it was much easier to simply unscrew two 19mm nuts that hold muffler pipe to the midpipe. An impact wrench with a 19mm deep socket makes it very easy. My car is 7 months old, already saw one winter, but the bolts/nuts were still not rusted so came out easily on the first try. This is another reason to install the towing package (if you need one) while your car is still new. Makes the process much easier. Once the muffler was out of the way the installation was a breeze.
- impact gun
- 19mm deep impact socket
- 1/2 extension (for the socket to get to bolts with a torque wrench)
- torque wrench (bolts are 85 ft/lbs)
- medium phillips screwdriver & some kind of a pick tool to get plastic rivets/screws from the driver side rear bottom plastic panel
- side cutters (to clip zip ties)
- a few sheets of paper towel and some cleaner to wipe metal before sticking to it the double sided adhesive pad to hold harness' electronic module
- lift jack, two stands, and wheel chucks
- mitre saw (nice to have to quickly cut a slit in the plastic panel) or anything else to make the cut
- drill with 1/4 drill bit to make a hole in the plastic cover for one zip tie (this is optional)
1. wait until exhaust is cool to the touch
2. put wheel chucks under front wheels
3. jack up rear passenger side until the wheel hangs about 1" of the ground
4. put jack stand for safety near the lift and make sure van sits on the stand and not on the jack
5. carefully remove six plastic rivets that hold driver side rear panel in place. Kurt instructions have some pics. https://www.curtmfg.com/masterlibrar..._13115_INS.PDF
6. Remove the plastic panel. Keep it!
7. slide right side of the hitch on top of the muffler pipe, let it rest right there. No tools needed, it goes in nice and easy and just lays there while you can work on the other side.
8. take a bolt with a washer from the parts bag included with the hitch. Make sure your washers are in the right orientation, the teeth go on top, against the hitch metal. Now lay on the ground by the driver side and loosely connect driver (left) side of the hitch to the middle hole with the screw and washer. do with your hands, don't tighten anything yet! This is the hardest part, because it's a bit uncomfortable to hold awkwardly the heavy hitch with one hand while screwing in the bolt with another. thankfully the other side of the hitch rests on the muffler.
9. screw in loosely the second and third bolts on the driver side.
10. now take your other jack stand and put under the right side of the hitch, so it now rests on the jack instead of the muffler
11. take impact gun and 19mm deep socket and unscrew completely two nuts that hold muffler pipe to the midpipe. use some penetrant spray if necessary.
12. gently move muffler pipe out of the way to expose access to three mounting holes on the passenger side.
13. loosely screw in by hand three bolts on the right side of the hitch
14. now walk behind your Sedona and take a careful look at the hitch. Make sure the hitch is positioned nice and center. Use a measuring tape, strings, whatever else to get the centre guideline in the right place, and then position the hitch so it's right where it should be. Here I messed up a bit and tightened the hitch bolts all the way before I noticed that hitch is not dead centre. So I had to unscrew, reposition, and tighten everything again to specs.
15. now, and only now you should start tightening the bolts to the specs (85 ft/lbs). I added some medium strength threadlocking paste to bolts here, just as an added safety measure. I used impact gun, and finished each bolt with a torque wrench.
16. Re-attach the muffler pipe back to the midpipe. Again impact gun does the job here.
That's it the hitch is now done, and it's time for the harness. Don't lower you van yet, it's easier to work when it's jacked up.
17. Remove connector covers from both connectors in the drive side well. Just use your hands. The sides of the connectors need to be squeezed in just the right spot to get covers released.
18. Plug in harness connectors.
19. Now it's time to find a spot where to attach the converter box to some place out of the way of road grime. Attaching it to the inside of the bumper skin is not the best idea in case you'll have a need to replace the bumper sometime in the coming years. I wanted to attach the box to the metal bumper under the plastic skin, but the double-sided tape wouldn't stick at all! I guess there's some corrosion protection film that makes it non-stick. So at the end I wiped the flat part of the hitch mount, and stuck the box to it. Now there it stuck so strongly so it sure won't go anywhere. Unfortunately this makes the part of wires with the flat 4-way connector a bit too short for my liking, but hopefully it will be okay, or I'll need to get an extension.
20. Now use supplied zip-ties, and some extra (if you have long ones) to organize all the harness cables neatly in the driver side rear well. Use side cutters to clip extra length.. Nothing should be able to move, dangle, or rattle. Just the way Kia did it for us with OEM wires. By the way, I used some black 3M electrical tape to wrap four wires that go from the converter box to the 4-way connector - just some extra protection.
The photo below shows driver side rear well with:
- hitch bracket on the bottom (black)
- three bolts that mount the hitch to the van's frame. the centre bolt is hiding behind wiring. you can also see that I had to reposition the hitch by about 1/4 inch to centre it properly after initial tightening of the bolts. there's enough wiggle room to do it, but overall stuff fits very nicely without much unnecessary play room.
- black converter box glued to the hitch bracket and colour wires coming in/out of it
- original van wiring coming out of the sheet metal in the mid left part of the pic
- two connectors are behind wires in the top left side
- Curt harness in a protective plastic covering held with two yellow zip ties
- red rubber fuse holder, part of Curt harness
21. Now it's time to try to figure out where to cut a slit in the original plastic cover so it can go back to where it was before. Curt instruction imply that cover can basically be thrown out, but there's actually no need, and it can go very nicely to where it was before. Take a look at the attached pics to see where I made the cut in mine. I used my compound sliding mitre saw to make three cuts. Be careful this plastic tends to make shards when being cut by a high-speed mitre saw.
22. I also made two holes for a zip tie that connects the loose ends of now cut plastic cover. Just an extra thing to keep the cover in place. You can see it on my second pic of the cut plastic well cover.
23. If the panel fits back in place then attach it back with the six plastic rivets that were removed in step #5
24. Use a long zip tie to attach harness near the 4-way flat connector to the hitch pipe.
25. Remove jack stands, lower your car, and remove wheel chucks.
That's it! Now you're done with the installation, and it's time to test everything out.