CV Axle Half Shaft Removal Tips - Kia Forum

 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-21-2019, 03:27 PM Thread Starter
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CV Axle Half Shaft Removal Tips

Hi Gang, I am going to try to remove and replace a RH (passenger side) CV axle next week. 2011 Kia Sedona LX. It looks like I can get a pry bar in there to break it loose from the tranny. I will separate the tie rod ball joint and remove the two pinch bolts at the end of the strut. Do I need to separate the lower control arm ball joint, remove brake caliper or remove anything else? Anybody done this? It looks easier than the earlier models. Any tips/help would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks

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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-22-2019, 03:52 AM
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Never done one before but you might check out this video beforehand. This guy does a 2 part video with the first part focused on taking everything out and the 2nd video on putting it all back in - including the axel. It's actually a very thorough video and he does a good job of explaining each step.

You may also consider checking out the digital version of the Haynes manual for your model year. My Haynes has a step by step video of the drive axel replacement.


https://youtu.be/V_g1-WHD4rw
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-22-2019, 02:23 PM Thread Starter
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Hi, Thanks for the quick response.I have watched just about every video on CV joint removal. They are mostly for older models...and use different procedures. Has anyone tried with a 2011 or newer model? There is room to pry it out but I am not sure if this always works on high mileage vans. I'll try with just removing the knuckle from the strut... and get a slide hammer as backup. Also, in your Haynes manual do they just force it out with a pry bar? Do they remove lower ball joint? New half shaft will be in next week. Any other tips?

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-22-2019, 02:56 PM
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They use a pry bar to pop the drive axel out and caution against pulling on the drive axel as that can damage the drive axel inner connection.

Beyond this, I'd recommend spending the money to get access to the online Haynes manual so you can watch the video yourself and refer back to it.

If you do a search for Haynes manual on eBay you'll find the link to purchase access. A 14dy subscription costs $5.99 and a one year costs $19.99 initially. I've had the one year subscription for several years now and it's only $9.99 to renew for another year after your initial subscription.

It's well worth the money and I refer to it all the time for stuff like torque numbers, fuel pump replacement etc. Are there better manuals out there, sure. But you're going to pay a whole lot more than $19.99 and $9.99 for the renewal.

And fwiw, the manual for my 09 covers your model year.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-22-2019, 04:48 PM
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Yes, they take the bolt and cotter pin out of the ball joint/knuckle connection prior to using a pry bar downwards to separate control arm/ball joint from the knuckle.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-22-2019, 06:21 PM Thread Starter
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I'll try to see if I can budge that CV joint at the tranny case before I mess with that lower control arm ball joint. I have the old Kia online repair manual for '06-'09. My 2011 is a bit different than those models. The online manual is great for what it doesn't tell you. I just don't want to screw up the seals, damage the case or trash the current shaft so bad that I'll need a tow,
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-22-2019, 08:37 PM
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Maybe different in other areas but your 2011 is the exact same McPherson strut style suspension as my 09 Sedona. Same part # for axel, control arm, knuckle, pin/bolt, ball joint, tie rod, wheel hub, boots, brake caliper and on and on.

In any event, it sounds like you got a handle on it and here's hoping you have a smooth install.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-31-2019, 10:52 PM Thread Starter
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Well...just spent 6 hours on this project. Final result...couldn't get the half shaft out. Tried prying, slide hammer with claw, jerking with straps...all failed. I was able to get the old lower control arm out (yep, it appeared fine) and a new Dorman installed. I left the tie rod, sway bar and strut pinch bolts in place. So, this car goes to the shop where they can get it up on a lift and have a go at it...but I had to try. Three things... My hub cap doesn't have a removable center cap, so I tried the screw driver as a stopper in the caliper(this worked because the axle bolt came off too easily with regular hand tools (no way was it torqued to 180 ft/lbs or anywhere close to that. I don't really like that method. Second, reverse the entry of the horizontal control arm bolt so the bolt head faces away from inner tie rod. This gives you better access, Also, to remove the control arm undo the inboard bolts, then the ball joint pinch bolt (make sure you can free this bolt first. Drop the arm and just pound with heavy hammer on spindle by pinch bolt hole. It will eventually drop down. I applied liberal amounts of Liquid Wrench days before before project. You'll have to horse the new one around a bit to get it in. . What did I learn..real mechanics could have knocked this job out in about a hour to an hour and a half and it's worth every penny. For high mileage cars you might as well replace lower arm while doing the CV joint. Check tie rods while doing this job. Go luck to the shade tree crowd.

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-01-2019, 02:07 PM
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Not even a slide hammer eh? Did you try tying a chain around it, to the back of a pick up?🤣
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-01-2019, 03:00 PM Thread Starter
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Nope ...Tried nylon straps and yanked on it ( while rotating the shaft). Used a heavy bar at end of straps. Slide hammer is difficult to get in there unless you fashion an extension.. I didn't want to use more force with the straps. Didn't want to cut the boot off and use vise grips on the cup. We'll see what the mechanic uses to get it out.
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