Cylinder bank 1 running rich, misfire codes, and rough idle - p0172 or p0175 codes? - Page 4 - Kia Forum
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post #31 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-22-2019, 01:07 PM Thread Starter
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Detailed video on timing belt install, and thanks for your great answer.

I really appreciate the response.
I got a cam servicing tool on loan (OEM 27210 is the company and part #) and it has problems. The 4 individual locking devices use set
screws and they are too short to make contact with the cylinder head.
Since these vehicles use a mitsubishi engine, I did a search for replacing the timing belt on their 3.5. The video is about an install out of the car, but has some good advice. The person putting on the belt uses those black paper clamps. There are some threaded holes in cylinder heads that he puts bolts with washers in, to hold a spoke in the gear.

Here is the link:



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post #32 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-22-2019, 03:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sedonarunscrappy View Post
I really appreciate the response.
I got a cam servicing tool on loan (OEM 27210 is the company and part #) and it has problems. The 4 individual locking devices use set
screws and they are too short to make contact with the cylinder head.
Since these vehicles use a mitsubishi engine, I did a search for replacing the timing belt on their 3.5. The video is about an install out of the car, but has some good advice. The person putting on the belt uses those black paper clamps. There are some threaded holes in cylinder heads that he puts bolts with washers in, to hold a spoke in the gear.
Also, the mitsubishi cars use a bolt with a square hole in the head. Wish KIA had done the same.
Here is the link:
Timing belt, A La MrHammer - YouTube
Yeah, I know about those tools that hold the two cams together so they don't rotate. I made my own with a long bolt and nuts and big washers so the washers are put across one on top and one on bottom and put inbetween the cam tooth and snug the bolt nut so they are kinda locked. What I found is they don't work too well. So, i got rid of them.

What I did was then put plastic tie from Harbor and put them on the each set of CAMS. Not too tight because you may have to rotate slight to put them on mark but as long as they don't rotate more than 45 deg. you are okay.

Put the belt around all the parts in loose fashion generally first.

What I did was just put the front 2 cams in mark (they won't move). It's the rear CAMS that want to move more than the front ones.

Then, put the Harbor Freight nylon spring clamp. They are cheap.

Shown here.

https://www.harborfreight.com/2-12-i...amp-69290.html

Put it on the belt and cam sprocket on the 2 front ones (left bank).

Then, put the belt on the rear cams (firewall). Rotate if necessary to put them on mark with looking at a mirror. get a hand mirror (get it from Dollar store cheap).

From my experience, the rear CAMS may want to rotate counter clockwise. So, if you have the belt and the clips on them, they won't move.

Then, put the spring clamp on them. The will not move with the belt on since it's held on from front by the two clamps on the front CAMS.

Then, put the belt around down water pump pulley then round the crank sprocket. Then, put a rag right under the crank sprocket and notch there so the rag won't fall out.

Now, you have the belt around the top CAMS, WP pulley and Crank.

Then, rotate the tensioner pulley to tighten and pull the pin from the tensioner.
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post #33 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-23-2019, 01:50 AM Thread Starter
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Replace tensioner?

Since the belt got sloppy, should I replace the tensioner? The hole for the pin is almost flush with the tensioner body.
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post #34 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-23-2019, 09:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sedonarunscrappy View Post
Since the belt got sloppy, should I replace the tensioner? The hole for the pin is almost flush with the tensioner body.
The way I see it, the belt can only get loose if the rod from the tensioner is not supporting the tensioner pulley bracket. And the pulley is not tensioning the belt. I am looking at the photos now and I see that.

So, my thought is the tensioner is no good. Your pulley may be okay still though. So, you may want to buy a new tensioner just in case. I think they still are not that expensive at Rockauto.

You can see if the tensioner failed by taking it out and taking a look at it. If you can push in the rod by fingers, then it's no good.

Also, if you take the belt off, rotate all the pulleys to see if they turn with no weird sound. If you hear any grinding sound, it is no good. You have to get a new pulley as well.

Also, make sure the tensioner pulley is bolted on right.

If you want to reset the tensioner, get a large C clamp (very cheap at Harbor) or use a table vice and press the rod in then insert a paper clip in the pin hole. make sure you toque the bolts at right amount when putting it back on.

Tensioning the belt and pulley and releasing the pin is kind of awkward under the wheel well as you work.

You have to rotate the pulley counter clockwise to tension with one hand, tighten the tensioner pulley bolt and then release the pin so the rod pushes out to set to the tensioner bracket. That's why the tool I mentioned is really useful.

You can't turn the tensioner pulley if pulley bolt is tight. So, you can see the awkwardness as you have to turn the pulley with the tool, tighten the bolt to set the pulley and release the pin. You can do it but it's a pain. And belt is tough so you have to put some effort to hold the tension while doing it under the wheel well.

I attached a photo shot of the tensioner so we can agree we are looking at the same thing.
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Last edited by glycine4; 03-23-2019 at 09:39 AM.
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post #35 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-23-2019, 01:00 PM Thread Starter
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Thats the one

Yep, that's the one.
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post #36 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-24-2019, 02:07 AM Thread Starter
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Belt belt installed, might have an issue about the new tensioner

I finished the install. The two gears near the firewall kicked my butt. Hard to get clamps on and one cam would unwind just as I almost had a clamp on it.
The belt is tight all over.
The original tensioner still had pressure. I put it in a vise and it was very hard to compress it.
I had a new one, and stuck it on to see if it would extend further than the other one. After tightening the belt, I pulled the pin. Nothing happened. The old one had about 1/4 inch extension.
The way things have gone with this car, I wonder if I should put the new one in a vice, pull the pin and let it out a little bit to see if the shaft moves.
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post #37 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-25-2019, 08:57 AM Thread Starter
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Looks good

The vehicle started up and ran great. The wide difference between the cylinder is not there anymore. They were originally there, but pulling the positive bat. lead and grounding it for a minute got rid of them.
As to why was the belt was loose to begin with, I think the installer was not paying attention, and left slack in area of the water pump. After 40 thousand miles, the belt loosened enough to cause problems.
Will pull the top covers off in about a week and see if the belt is tight.
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post #38 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-25-2019, 05:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sedonarunscrappy View Post
The vehicle started up and ran great. The wide difference between the cylinder is not there anymore. They were originally there, but pulling the positive bat. lead and grounding it for a minute got rid of them.
As to why was the belt was loose to begin with, I think the installer was not paying attention, and left slack in area of the water pump. After 40 thousand miles, the belt loosened enough to cause problems.
Will pull the top covers off in about a week and see if the belt is tight.
I am glad everything went well.

I must say, once you do a timing belt work, you have no fear. You realize you can tackle any work if you put your mind to it. Just take time and patience.
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post #39 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-25-2019, 07:23 PM Thread Starter
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It took some extra effort for sure

Quote:
Originally Posted by glycine4 View Post
I am glad everything went well.

I must say, once you do a timing belt work, you have no fear. You realize you can tackle any work if you put your mind to it. Just take time and patience.
I've done single overheads on non interference. This was a whole different beast. Never had a cam spring out of position and defy me!
Had to do some engineering to get it done.
Made a crude pin wrench to hold the crank pulley for breaking loose the bolt, plus applying torque on reinstallation.
The bolts through wood blocks got the cams next to the firewall to stay in place.
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