How to? Accessory / Serpentine belt - 2.4L 4 cyl - Page 2 - Kia Forum

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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-08-2012, 03:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avgwarhawk View Post
cllo, that is the serpentine belt. You got one of those.

Chains are not bullet proof either. Plastic/nylon tensioners wear. Nylon covered gears wear. The longevity of the chain is assured however after 100k things can go wrong. Much past say 125k the chain should be replaced.
I had over 150 K on my Chrysler mini van and never replaced a timing chain,or belt....whichever it had.

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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-14-2012, 08:46 PM
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I did my belt like this....

my post about replacing a serpentine belt 4 cyl optima
https://www.kia-forums.com/do-yoursel...tml#post426184

good luck, you'll need it!
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-08-2014, 09:48 AM
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where did you find the routing diagram for the serpentine belt?? I partially remove mine, made a diagram, and now it just barely will not fit back on. I need to confirm I have the correct routing. thanks
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-15-2014, 08:11 AM
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old Today, 03:24 PM
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2006 Kia Optima 2.4L Serpentine Belt Replacement

I want to thank the forum and previous contributors for giving me some insight. I looked on here last night while working on my nephew's car.

I thought we were going to have to remove the power steering hose and the upper motor mount but that was NOT NECESSARY.

You will likely need one other pair of hands to do the work, though. Gloves will help, but just be ready to scratch your hands up in the tight spaces and sharp edges everywhere.

1st, we made sure to apply the parking brake and chock the rear wheels. We jacked up the front end and used jack stands for support.

Remove the passenger side wheel and small plastic cowling between the wheel well and engine.

The previous belt had already come off and so we just had to clean out the shreds that were still tangled up.

Using the schematic, we routed the new belt around the lower pulleys and left the slack to be wrapped around the top pulley which was easier to access than the tension pulley.

The tension pulley has a 17mm bolt head that moves counterclockwise to relieve tension.

This is where you will likely need another set of hands. While I was pulling the tension pulley back, my dad used some screw drivers to ease the belt over onto the top pulley, while slowly turning it clockwise. The belt slid off and right into place.

Then just replace the cowling and wheel. That was it.

(I think that was everything, but you smarter guys feel free to let me know and I'll edit it to be more helpful of a post.)
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