AWD Slipping ? Rear Slipping ? - Page 16 - Kia Forum

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post #151 of 164 (permalink) Old 10-21-2018, 08:33 AM
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Well one thing I like and give reason for AWD compared to FWD is pulling straight forward at the green light, where FWD often pulls in zig zag ..but this is on snow or wet, generally not on hard dry asphalt surface.


Bought in Oct 2016 at 55000km, now (June 2019) at 75000 km. I like cars...
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post #152 of 164 (permalink) Old 10-21-2018, 04:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tripplec View Post
It should be just like a FWD build and not be affected by the lack of rear push going on. The V6 is a peppy engine without a doubt. Put a Helium balloon on tha foot, might help.....otherwise tires have few cross hash sipes. Even all seasons need an aggressive cross cut pattern to bite. Otherwise they're bands of rubber.
Well, all I can say is try it yourself some time!

Anyway, I got suckered into Nokian tires, a while back which I don't really care much for! Not much crosshatch on them. They're great in the rain, not so much in snow, or gravel, the worst I ever saw on ice! But 80k mileage warantee! For all I know, (maybe they have a soft sidewall?) But if I had the money, they'd be gone by now! I live in the hilly, twisty's, and along with stop & go, I figure AWD helps in all those conditions! I definitely noticed a loose feeling vehicle, and felt I couldn't continue to drive it that way, so I finally put the AWD fuse back in.

My neighbor is my witness, as i let him drive me on occasion, he noticed as Well! One time I was driving myself with him, and I scared us both because of this! It was right after that, when I put the fuse back in.

Some previous Hyundai/Kia vehicles: 2002 Santa Fe LX V6 AWD, 2005 Tucson LX V6 AWD, 2010 Tucson GLS 2.4L AWD, 2011 Sportage EX 2.4L AWD, 2015 Sorento Ex V6 AWD
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post #153 of 164 (permalink) Old 10-21-2018, 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by MikDee View Post
Well, all I can say is try it yourself some time!

Anyway, I got suckered into Nokian tires, a while back which I don't really care much for! Not much crosshatch on them. They're great in the rain, not so much in snow, or gravel, the worst I ever saw on ice! But 80k mileage warantee! For all I know, (maybe they have a soft sidewall?) But if I had the money, they'd be gone by now! I live in the hilly, twisty's, and along with stop & go, I figure AWD helps in all those conditions! I definitely noticed a loose feeling vehicle, and felt I couldn't continue to drive it that way, so I finally put the AWD fuse back in.

My neighbor is my witness, as i let him drive me on occasion, he noticed as Well! One time I was driving myself with him, and I scared us both because of this! It was right after that, when I put the fuse back in.
I had Nokian's on a Jeep Grand Cherokee and Ford Explorer but they were the proven All Weather Plus and not the multi thread they came up with years later. There new supposedly all weather tires although had grip in the Jeep Compass got extremely noisey the 2nd year and had different band of rubber across the carcase. I eventually dumped them partially worn as I couldn't stand the howl any longer. The end for Nokian at the high $$ cost I done with their tires.

Sorento SX V6 3.3L GDI, AWD 2015
19" Factory Rims, Class III hitch' NAV Current 54,000km Nov. 2018
Highlander 2012 4WD 3.5L Sport
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post #154 of 164 (permalink) Old 11-04-2018, 02:44 AM
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I'm facing the back wheel slipping issue in my sportage too. ODO is at 137000 KM now, mechanic inspected all that can be inspected and said he couldn't find an issue (he is not too experienced in those models' specifics).
I stumbled upon this discussion and found the mentioned complaints are the exact same of what I'm facing.
I disconnected the AWD fuse and the problem went away however, the car drives differently so I will try to replace the coupler soon.

The front and back tires are not the same make, but have the same specifications. I don't know if this is related, I will have to replace <2 years 2 tires just in case

A question though, does it affect anything else if I drive with a removed fuse for a while?

Last edited by expert87; 11-04-2018 at 03:07 AM.
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post #155 of 164 (permalink) Old 11-04-2018, 05:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by expert87 View Post
....A question though, does it affect anything else if I drive with a removed fuse for a while?
I drive mine like that (switch installed) regularly, as a preventive measure: I do not have the problem. ESC and ABS are still alive. NO problem other than the "slip" light on the instrument panel, that disappears when I turn AWD back ON. FOr the rest, it becomes a FWD, period.

However, the condition you..and others...have described in a similar way, makes me puzzled: if pulling the fuse clears the problem, it means the coupler itself, I mean the clutch components, are then electrically de-energized and act accordingly. SO the problem is not the clutch itself, but the elements that keep it energized when it should not: OK they are "part of" the coupler system (pressure sensor, hydraulic pump motor, ....?) and are part of and replaced with the replacement of the whole "coupler" , thus clearing the problem...for a while, it seems from reports that the problem comes again later. IF my question here proves true, it could mean that my "coupler saving" solution might not save the problem in the long run (unlesss it also saves the crappy electronics) . Fact is, KIA (Hyundai) DOES have a problem, since it repeats itself systematically, maybe not for everyone, but in the same way for all those who are plagued with it. ANd their only admission that there is a problem is that they replace the coupler.. they correct the result, not the cause.

Bought in Oct 2016 at 55000km, now (June 2019) at 75000 km. I like cars...

Last edited by LMP; 11-04-2018 at 11:18 AM.
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post #156 of 164 (permalink) Old 11-04-2018, 02:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LMP View Post
I drive mine like that (switch installed) regularly, as a preventive measure: I do not have the problem. ESC and ABS are still alive. NO problem other than the "slip" light on the instrument panel, that disappears when I turn AWD back ON. FOr the rest, it becomes a FWD, period.

However, the condition you..and others...have described in a similar way, makes me puzzled: if pulling the fuse clears the problem, it means the coupler itself, I mean the clutch components, are then electrically de-energized and act accordingly. SO the problem is not the clutch itself, but the elements that keep it energized when it should not: OK they are "part of" the coupler system (pressure sensor, hydraulic pump motor, ....?) and are part of and replaced with the replacement of the whole "coupler" , thus clearing the problem...for a while, it seems from reports that the problem comes again later. IF my question here proves true, it could mean that my "coupler saving" solution might not save the problem in the long run (unlesss it also saves the crappy electronics) . Fact is, KIA (Hyundai) DOES have a problem, since it repeats itself systematically, maybe not for everyone, but in the same way for all those who are plagued with it. ANd their only admission that there is a problem is that they replace the coupler.. they correct the result, not the cause.
Now that I read about it, it seems that I had multiple factors that encouraged the issue to occur, I have same size tires but with different manufacturers and different tread depth, I didn't rotate them for a long time, and when I did the drive was uncomfortable I had to switch them back! , I had what I believe now a poor re-alignment done. I'm glad I found a way to protect my car from further damage. I do hope that there is no extensive damage done to the drivetrain, there is no way for me to know until I change all tires, re-align my car and maybe replace the coupler.

I agree with you that this is an actuator which should be normally off, it is odd that it would go on all the time especially if it is broken, if something goes wrong like in my case -because of the tires-, then it should be the module sending false signals and the problem should not go away once the coupler is replaced. Not to mention that there should be a warning light when it crosses a certain threshold. Also, it is inconvenient that the switch doesn't have a completely off mode, the car becomes more responsive and alive when AWD is completely off but the back feels like a dead weight that is dragging behind you.

By the way, I'm curious now, Is there a kit to install the off switch? Is it done through the fuse box?
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post #157 of 164 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 01:06 PM
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We experienced this with our 2016 Sorento EX. We purchased the vehicle just a month ago and felt it about a week after buying. Took it back to the Chevy dealership where we purchased, and they gave us a snazzy new Blazer to drive while they took it to the Kia dealership in town (Olathe Kia) since it's still under factory warranty. Well, Olathe Kia drove it and said nothing was wrong with it. They gave it back to us. Frustration doesn't even begin to describe my mood about them. But then we called Lawrence Kia (because I'm not going anywhere near Olathe Kia), and they were able to diagnose the problem right away. We're getting a new rear coupler on Tuesday! Thankful for this forum AND for quality dealerships!!
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post #158 of 164 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 01:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michelle Smith View Post
We experienced this with our 2016 Sorento EX. We purchased the vehicle just a month ago ....
What mileage ?

Bought in Oct 2016 at 55000km, now (June 2019) at 75000 km. I like cars...
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post #159 of 164 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 05:05 PM
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The vehicle was under Kia warrranty. You should have taken it to them directly. Your time and your loss. Problems don't get referred correctly and the tech has no idea what he's looking for!!!

Sorento SX V6 3.3L GDI, AWD 2015
19" Factory Rims, Class III hitch' NAV Current 54,000km Nov. 2018
Highlander 2012 4WD 3.5L Sport
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post #160 of 164 (permalink) Old 06-16-2019, 10:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LMP View Post
I drive mine like that (switch installed) regularly, as a preventive measure: I do not have the problem. ESC and ABS are still alive. NO problem other than the "slip" light on the instrument panel, that disappears when I turn AWD back ON. FOr the rest, it becomes a FWD, period.

However, the condition you..and others...have described in a similar way, makes me puzzled: if pulling the fuse clears the problem, it means the coupler itself, I mean the clutch components, are then electrically de-energized and act accordingly. SO the problem is not the clutch itself, but the elements that keep it energized when it should not: OK they are "part of" the coupler system (pressure sensor, hydraulic pump motor, ....?) and are part of and replaced with the replacement of the whole "coupler" , thus clearing the problem...for a while, it seems from reports that the problem comes again later. IF my question here proves true, it could mean that my "coupler saving" solution might not save the problem in the long run (unlesss it also saves the crappy electronics) . Fact is, KIA (Hyundai) DOES have a problem, since it repeats itself systematically, maybe not for everyone, but in the same way for all those who are plagued with it. ANd their only admission that there is a problem is that they replace the coupler.. they correct the result, not the cause.
My guess it's the process of activating clutch engagement inside a defective coupling. The coupler clutch system is trying to engage the input driveshaft to an internally torn apart output shaft flange/spline. It could be grinding the internals together causing the jerking and banging. Killing the clutch activation (removing fuse) eliminates any internal coupler attempts to join the input/output shafts together. " Remember I said my guess nothing proven"

I'm Bob, 2015 Sorento SX , 2007 GMC Envoy (tuned) , 1994 Camaro Z28 (modified/custom tuned)

Last edited by bobdec; 06-16-2019 at 10:15 AM. Reason: spelling
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