Identifying Engine - Kia Forum

 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-06-2017, 05:04 PM Thread Starter
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Identifying Engine

I have a Kia Sorento 2011 3.5L v6.

I've been told I need a new engine due to engine sludge.

I'm trying to identify exactly which engine I need, so I can shop it. Apparently there are two types for the 3.5L:

1) 3.5L (VIN 2, 8th digit), 13 bolt oil pan
2) 3.5L (VIN 2, 8th digit), 14 bolt oil pan

How do I determine if I need the 13 bolt version, or the 14 bolt version (short of going below the engine and counting bolts on the oil pan)? Can I use the VIN to determine how many bolts the engine has, or is there a sticker somewhere on the engine that will tell me? If it's a sticker, anyone know where on the engine it should be located?

Thanks,

Mistwell

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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-07-2017, 12:40 PM
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Sorry, not related to your question, but how many miles, what type of oil/filter have you been using and lastly how long between changes.
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-07-2017, 03:22 PM
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How did they determine you needed a new engine? Is the car driveable?

Were you experiencing any problems? If so, what were the symptoms?

For something like this, I would get a second opinion.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-07-2017, 03:26 PM Thread Starter
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Sorry, not related to your question, but how many miles, what type of oil/filter have you been using and lastly how long between changes.
71,000 miles. We believe we've gotten regular oil changes, however we were only able to produce complete oil change copies for the last two years (every 3000 miles or so, using whatever oil filter the standard oil change companies like Jiffy Lube and Valvoline use). We have only sporadic records prior to that (because we didn't save copies and cannot remember where we got them done) and Kia has rejected our warranty claim because we are unable to produce complete oil change records going back to the date the car was purchased.

We don't think that's a fair approach from Kia, but that's beside the point and not the purpose of this post. The engine seems to need to be replaced, we cannot afford the $7600 the Kia dealer wants for a new engine, and so we are looking to the remanufactured engine market for an engine. We've found a good one for $2000, however it's a 13 bolt version and I need to verify which engine our Kia uses before we can buy that engine and hire our mechanic to install it.

Can you offer advice on identifying which specific engine our vehicle uses?
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-07-2017, 03:32 PM Thread Starter
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How did they determine you needed a new engine? Is the car driveable?

Were you experiencing any problems? If so, what were the symptoms?

For something like this, I would get a second opinion.
The car is driveable, however it burns oil fairly quickly (in about two weeks or so), and sometimes emits smoke out the exhaust when the vehicle is first started, and it drives rough when first started. We have not observed any oil leak, so we suspect it's burning it all internally.

Kia observed evidence of sludge and recommended a new engine.

We asked our mechanic to take a look at it and he also saw sludge and recommended a new engine.

It's theoretically possible to apply a sludge removal additive, perhaps even twice, along with oil changes, and that could clear the sludge. However, if the engine was damaged by the sludge, it won't help with that. And if it dislodges a lot of sludge and doesn't clear the system, it theoretically could harm a new engine as well. So we've been somewhat reluctant to go down the engine-flush route.

I am open to advice, and also open to the possibility a mechanic could disassemble the engine and flush the parts that way in a more thorough way, while looking for any damage. But I don't know if that would be cost effective, nor how to find a mechanic that would provide that service.

I am open to advice, but I suspect the remanufactured engine is probably the way to go.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-08-2017, 07:38 AM
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Documentation can be a problem. I have always went to the dealer for changes because I believe it would make my case in the event of problems. I know they use recommended oil filters but they were not straight forward on what type oil they use. The invoice often listed "bulk" oil, sometimes listed as 5W30 sometimes 10W30. When questioned they claimed entry error or programming problem. Advisors said they "believe" is is semi synthetic, dealer advertises their oil as Mobile semi synthetic. Went to a different dealer, same story. This dealer offers free oil changes if you bought the vehicle from them. I did not and they charged me $19. Good luck on your situation, if it were me I would go underneath and count the bolts or go to jiffy? and ask them to check. Have you approached jiffy or? about your sludge problem?
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-08-2017, 09:57 PM Thread Starter
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I did go below the vehicle yesterday and just took pictures with my cell phone of everything with a code. I then looked up all those codes until one came up as a 13-bolt oil pan, so that answers my question as to which engine it is.

I could go to Jiffy Lube for an engine flush, but I am not sure I'd trust them over a known mechanic. I am willing to pay a bit extra for someone I trust to do an engine flush if we go that route first. Plus a known mechanic will remove the oil pan after each treatment to clean that out, and I am not sure a Jiffy Lube would offer that service.

The more I consider it the more I think there is little harm in trying an engine flush first (followed by a top of the line synthetic oil that can potentially repair minor seal damage). There are not many ways a new engine could be harmed by the sludge from an old engine that's been removed. And if it could be harmed that way, there's no saying it wouldn't already be in that position before I even try an engine flush. So, we're leaning that direction as a first treatment. If it does not work then we'll go the engine replacement route.
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