2005 Kia Sorento A/C issues - Kia Forum

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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 06:45 AM Thread Starter
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2005 Kia Sorento A/C issues

My wife's 05 sorentos A/c cut out all of a sudden. Relays are good but when I look down at the compressor there is a wire going into the compressor that looks broken or disconnected. Any idea what this is? Climate control blows hot and when a/c on blows ambient temperature air into the car. I hear relays and cooling fan but that wire.... You can see it looking into compressor straight down from the battery. Os it a connector or ?

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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 01:31 PM Thread Starter
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Air conditioner

My wife's 2005 Kia Sorento only blows ambient temperature air when a/c is on. Heat works, relay kicks , fan spins, 80% sure charged but there is is a wire that looks disconnected or cut. Looking at the A/C compressor it's on battery side. Has anyone ever seen this? I can't reach it so getting down there will be an adventure.

Any tips? Sorry I posted earlier and can't find it.
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 08:21 PM
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There is a wire lead that goes to the compressor. If turning on the AC does not start the compressor turning and the wire is loose you
have probably found your problem.
Get a mirror that extends down and see if you can see it. Be adventurous and remove the battery and see if that helps your view.
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 10:27 PM
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That is the wire to the electromagnetic coil of the AC Clutch. It is basically what engages the AC compressor pulley when the AC is turned on, so that the AC compressor isn't running all the time and wasting energy.

If that wire is broken then all you should need to do is to strip back the ends, solder it back together, and heat shrink the join, and you'll be back up and running =)

As has been suggested, this should be a lot easier with the battery out of the way..
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 05:51 PM Thread Starter
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Okay so the wire is intact, it was the shielding that was damaged.

However now I'm back to stumped, I assure you if I could afford to take it in I would.

The fans both spin, internal A/c has green light, and blows ambient air.

It worked and one day just went from attic cold to blowing air when I came out of the store.

Any suggestions? I am electronically inclined but automotively not so much.
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 09:00 PM
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Go get the freon charge checked. They will go from air to no air in a heartbeat if they lose gas.

Last edited by nstoolman1; 04-18-2019 at 09:25 PM.
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-19-2019, 12:08 AM
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Smile Pressure should less than 40 on the low and 240 on the high side.

Many garages will off a free A/C check, but they usually just check the temp at the duct with a remote temp gun. I think you have already determined that it is not cold at the vent. After they do their free test, they will attempt to charge you to put the R134a gauges on the car to determine if there is any difference between the pressure and suction sides of the compressor. If there is no gas in the compressor, there has to be a leak, commonly at a rubber seal or hose.
If they charge you over $50, you could buy your own manifold set from Harborfreight.com for the same amount, using the permanent 20% discount coupon at Struggleville The pressure should be 40 on the low side and 240 on the high side when it is operating normally, and 40 degrees at the vent closest to the evaporator.

Buying and using this tool will not repair your A/C, but it will help to determine what is NOT wrong. If the pressure is close to 100lbs, a refrigerant leak is likely not to be your problem. The problem will be related to the 12vdc source that engages the electromagnetic A/C clutch. The clutch is about $50, but the compressor may be only $80. It appears you just need a few more facts to determine your course of action.
Fill us in on your troubleshooting results, and the solution, so we can all benefit from your experience.
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-19-2019, 03:17 PM
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Check the three way pressure switch at the condenser. Also, this connector goes to the high pressure switch on the compressor, have sold many of them
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-21-2019, 12:41 PM Thread Starter
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Okay so I had it "checked" r134 in spec and I was told there was clearly a problem.... I picked up my car on that note.... I'm a moron and I knew that.

I wired coil to the battery and it does not engage, no click at all.

Now I'm convinced it's got to be the clutch but again I fix 80's model Ford's, only thing electric is the battery!

Anyone know of a different issue it could be after wiring clutch to battery? It's one wore pretty hard to screw up.
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-22-2019, 03:18 PM
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Check the pressure switch on top of the compressor before you buy a new one. I don't think you can buy a clutch for it, just the whole "enchilada" It's the same system as Mitsubishi. And I have sold a ton of those switch on top of the compressor.
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