01 Kia Optima / Squeaky Serp Belt Help!! - Kia Forum

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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 09-27-2015, 08:20 PM Thread Starter
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01 Kia Optima / Squeaky Serp Belt Help!!

I know I am very new to this forum, but am more of a DIY person for work on my Kia. The Serpentine Belt seems to be squeaking, I can only think of 2 things, either the belt itself or the tensioner. The belt doesn't seem to have any cracks in it or fraying but it is over 5 years old. I would see if there is play in the tensioner but not quite sure how to reach it, seems such a crazy tight fit. Would anyone happen to have any ideas? I know if i spray the belt with water the noise stops. If not any ideas maybe the repair manual for the 2001 kia optima 2.4L, 4 cyl. All I can come up with seems to be the belt diagram which I'll post below.

The serpentine belt routing diagram for 2.4 liters 16V - G4JS engine code:
CS = Crankshaft
Gen = Alternator
T = Tensioner
AC = Air Conditioning
PAS = Power Assisted Steering
WP = Water Pump


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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 09-28-2015, 06:44 AM
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Not familiar with the 1G, but the diagram indicates 2 belts with the tensioner on the PS/AC belt, so as the belts are old, don't know how many miles though, just change the belts and see if the noise stops, but if it doesn't, need to look at the pulleys.

You can always remove or loosen the belt(s) and turn the pulley(s) to see if any noise before replacement of belts. Normally a tensioner when starting to go will make sound when first started and calm down once it's rotating.

Found this on the net:
If it is anything like my 2004 Kia Optima with the 2.4l that comes with aircondition, it is relatively painless.
First - open the hood and look to the passenger side of the engine. In between the block and the belt tensioner there are two 14 mm nuts. The one hidden down by the block is the securing bolt (1) - the one out front (2) is used for tension adjustment.
Loosen bolt number 1 then loosen bolt number 2 - the belt will become loose. Keep going until you can literally pull the belt off the top pully's then work the belt off of the rest of the pulleys (if you have trouble just leave the belt in place; the next step will make it easier to remove the belt).
Now jack the car up and remove the passenger side front tire. Behind the tire is a plastic shield. Using a 10 mm socket with an extension remove the 3 bolts holding this shield and pull this down and out.
Now get under the care near the passenger side front and locate a second plastic shield. Remove the 2 bolts and the shield comes right off.
Now you should be able to see the main crank pulley and the bottom part of the air conditiong pump. If you didn't remove it before before - remove the belt from the bottom.
Take your new belt and wrap it around the main shaft then snake it around the underside of the air conditioning pump. Go back up top and work the belt around the rest of the pulleys.
Make sure the belt is seated properly and tension it back up. Be sure to secure the tensioner bolt. Just for kicks start the car and see if there are any squeaks with the air conditioning running. If there are then tighten the tensioner by redoing the process until there are no more squeaks. If there are still squeaks then something else is going on. Could be a dirty pulley or bad bearing(?)
Replace the plastic shields and the front tire. Viola' you're done.
All done for about $30 and a little time.

Last edited by turbonut; 09-28-2015 at 07:04 AM.
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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 09-28-2015, 08:56 AM
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Hello Michael the belts will tell you when something is going wrong.
The most common is poor battery needing excessive charge. If battery is over 5 years old replace that or you can check voltage as a guide When the car has stood for some time preferably overnight put cheap voltage tester across terminals.
If voltage below 12.3 replace You can check you alternator is ok., with the car running the voltage across battery should be at least 13.6 volts. These are simple basic test.
The advice above should be followed and the rotation of all the auxiliaries checked for smoothness.
The other 2 things likely to cause any trouble is the small tensioner pulley bearing or the water pump. Seals start to leak water leaks into bearing . check around water pump for white deposits from antifreeze.

When you take a car into garage for battery test you have driven there with the alternator pumping in charge so unless the battery has collapsed it will appear ok. Unless a high discharge test is done by a technician who knows how to read the results from the tests.

Good luck with your learning try using camera to take pictures so you are sure you can reassemble correctly.

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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 09-28-2015, 10:07 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you both very much!! Sounds very promising, I will let everyone know how it turns out.
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