My Kia Rio Problems Summary - Kia Forum

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post #1 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-04-2015, 10:21 AM Thread Starter
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Hi in order to get help from Jasper and Ron im doing a summary of my Kia Rio Ordeal:
I got the car from a friend "running", the car got a tranny leak and a shaky engine while Idle, but would run ok with Check Engine Light on.
  1. First thing adressed was the trans leak, we drop the tranny and replced the rubber retainer and casing. Leak Fixed.
  2. According to the seller and the boxes in the trunk he had already replced the MAF Sensor, IAC Valve and Coil Pack trying to figure out the shakyness.
  3. On the first scan we got codes for Cam Sensor, Crank Sensor and MAF Sensor. We replace Cam And Crank since the MAF was recently changed. The car was working about the same with the shakyness here and there but ran. On the way from the mechanic to my house(about 5 miles) the rough idling and poor accelaration was more severe till the car gave up. At the moment I thought it was out of gas, but the time it took me to get a can of gas and brought back the car started again so I drove it home.
  4. Next day I figure out that the car would run normally until is warm(half way of the Temp gauge) then it would fail. So I took it to radiator specialist that assure me that the car wasn't hot, just normal 180 Fh running temp that issue should be something else. Took it to the local Autozone get codes:
    P1505, P1508, P0103, P0335, P0741, P0717 Too many codes figured out that may have been false warnings, trigrered by something else.
  5. Next day I embarc on the task of checking wire harness and throtle body. Took it appart replaced gasket was worn and had a cooling line blocked.Checked PCV and Vacuum hose working! Checked wire harness for Split o broken wires, put it back together, found out that the MAF and IAC plugs could fit each other. Checked with Ron connected it correctly, checked the IAC is opening and Closing (Jasper the voltaje was not checked). Tried again the car would start right up when cold, but after 15 secs will start shaking and hessitating.
  6. Found a replacement for the coil plugs, installed them, checked and the same issues still
  7. Unplugged Battery to reset ECU, leave it for a day, got a Bluetooth scanner lend from a friend started the car after 15mins no Check Engine, wait 15 more nothing, noticed that while cold (say the first 5 mins after started) the car would shift into gear right up, but once warm and jittering it would shift unless accelerated. So took the car for a short drive till the check engine is on, drove about 3 miles the shaking and sputtering started, tried to continue but the car gave up, check engine on! let it rest for about 5 mins till I was able to started up again. I was able to drive home but shaking, trembling, no power what so ever about 5-10MPH was the fastest I could go. Got Home Scan it with the Torque App for Android this is what I get:
    P0300 Random Multiple Misfire
    P0325 Knock Sensor 1
    P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor 1

I figure some videos could help a long way to determine the issue son Im including some so you can see first Hand:
This is what it looks at cold start:
http://vid172.photobucket.com/albums...psroejbsr8.mp4
http://vid172.photobucket.com/albums...ps5umwtirn.mp4
This is revving once it warms:
http://vid172.photobucket.com/albums...ps5alypmtt.mp4
This is the exhaust while warm on idle:
http://vid172.photobucket.com/albums...psbhdjciyu.mp4
And this is Just Crazy, I've found that once warm if you turn the Wheel it would accel a Little:
http://vid172.photobucket.com/albums...psaw9gqawf.mp4

Hopefully this could help you helping me out...

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post #2 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-07-2015, 08:58 PM
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Man oh man what a list. Let me soak it all in and I'll get back to you tomorrow. I just now saw this.


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post #3 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-07-2015, 09:14 PM
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My Kia Rio Problems Summary

Let me say this quick: once it's warm and acting up use an in line spark tester to check each plug if it's getting spark. They're relatively cheap. $16 ish. It gets attached between the plug and wire. It will at least show you that if it's running rough if it's a spark problem. If it's not and the plugs fire normally during shitty rough running then it's related to timing or fuel. Air supply should be fine.
Also pull plugs and see how they're doing. Honestly it sounds electrical in nature.

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post #4 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-08-2015, 07:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael Oaks View Post
This is what it looks at cold start:
http://vid172.photobucket.com/albums...psroejbsr8.mp4
http://vid172.photobucket.com/albums...ps5umwtirn.mp4
This is revving once it warms:
http://vid172.photobucket.com/albums...ps5alypmtt.mp4
This is the exhaust while warm on idle:
http://vid172.photobucket.com/albums...psbhdjciyu.mp4
And this is Just Crazy, I've found that once warm if you turn the Wheel it would accel a Little:
http://vid172.photobucket.com/albums...psaw9gqawf.mp4

Hopefully this could help you helping me out...
Cold start doesn't sound right. So I think you have a problem even when cold but it just gets more noticeable when warm. The idle going up when you turn the wheel is considered normal. It's programming so the engine doesn't stall with sudden wheel movement (extra load caused by PS pump). Man I wish I could just say bam this is the problem but I cant. Get a spark tester, and also check the plugs to see how they're looking. Also see if/when the timing belt/chain was replaced or if it hasn't been.


Also lets talk about the codes:
P1505 = IAC valve problem
P1508 = IAC valve problem
P0103 = MAF sensor bad
P0335 = Crankshaft Position Sensor
P0741 = Torque Converter Stuck Off
P0717 = Tranny Speed Sensor

Have the battery and alternator tested (free services at most places) and also please check/clean/tighten all electrical grounds (engine to frame, alternator to engine battery to frame etc)

Last edited by Jasper18; 07-08-2015 at 08:10 AM.
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post #5 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-08-2015, 08:30 AM
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For due diligence change the MAF again. It could still be a bad part.
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post #6 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-15-2015, 07:30 AM
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Did this ever get solved... I'm having similar issues with rough running?
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post #7 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-15-2015, 06:42 PM
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No idea. He disappeared. If you have the same problems just read here and see the possible fixes


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post #8 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-16-2015, 10:33 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Jasper18 View Post
No idea. He disappeared. If you have the same problems just read here and see ...
Hey guys sorry I went off the radar for a while, mainly cause I couldn't time wise go on with the testing, took the car to a technician here is what he have done so far;
  1. checked the timing belt, timing was a bit off he fixed it
  2. Clean IAC and reset throttle adjustment needle
  3. those Two steps mostly took care of the rough idling and jitteriness.
  4. Since the failure after warming up or running for awhile continued, he tried exchanging the ECU from another of a junker, but the fail persisted
  5. He wondered why the car still reported the Crank Sensor error even though it was new, so he tried a used one and we test the car for about 15 miles without issues(most of them)

What still remains: the trans won't shift into gear when warm-hot, it acts like it's slipping but if you accel it would run fine once reaches 2nd gear.
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post #9 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-17-2015, 08:00 AM
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Let me say this: Once you get everything worked out DO NOT get rid of the car lol. It's like brand freaking new haha.
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post #10 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-17-2015, 08:33 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Jasper18 View Post
Let me say this: Once you get everything worked out DO NOT get rid of the car lol. It's like brand freaking new haha.
Actually tomorrow I'm picking it up, try to get the AC fix, settle registration next week and have someone look at the transmission problem, add all up and try to get back what I've invested in it money wise... I will not wander with it till something else stops working..
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