1996 Kia Sportage Fast Idle Issue - Kia Forum

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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-25-2019, 03:47 PM Thread Starter
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1996 Kia Sportage Fast Idle Issue

Hi all! I tried to search the existing threads before posting this. Forgive me if I missed any relevant information and please redirect me if I missed something. This last year I picked up a 4 door, 1996 4x4 MT Sportage with 114,000 miles with a bad transmission and high idle issue. I fixed the transmission issue, but now I'm chasing a fast idle issue. The vehicle will start up just fine and idle around 1000 rpms. But then the idle would start creeping up to about 2500 rpms and would never come down, even after the vehicle was full operating temperature. I pulled the IAC valve, cleaned it, and put it back in. No change. Initial thought was bad IAC valve and I order another one. Installed it and same problem! So I started to look for vacuum leaks and was inspecting the larger hoses that route to and from the IAC valve. As I moved it up and down, the idle would fluctuate. I ended up finding a bad wire that went from the temperature sensor to the IAC valve plug (green with a yellow stripe). I fixed the connection, ensured good continuity and put it all back together, thinking that was the fix! Nope. Still the same problem and now it actually fast idles at 3000 rpms! If I unplug the valve, it will idle down to around 1000 rpms and run smooth. When I plug it back in, idles back up to 3000 rpms. I tried to troubleshoot the temperature sensor and I believe it is working properly. I connected the multimeter to it on continuity check and watched it slowly change as the engine got warm. I checked voltage at the plug to the IAC and have 5.02v at pin 1 (Y/G wire), 0v at pin 2 (G/Y Wire) and 0.0v at pin 3 (Y/B Wire) when cold and have 5.02v at pin 1 (Y/G wire), 0v at pin 2 (G/Y Wire) and 5.65v at pin 3 (Y/B Wire) when warm. What am I missing? What should I check? I have checked vacuum hoses and all seem to be good. I have also changed the MAF sensor because I broke it. lol! Both the old and the new IAC valve are opening completely. So what is telling it to open that much? I've tried to look up and understand that circuit and computer, but I am definitely missing something. Thanks in advance!


David
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-26-2019, 10:14 PM
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Might want to connect a scan tool and check the fuel trim readings and O2 sensor readings.

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-28-2019, 02:04 PM
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did hook up an OBD11 scanner, and drop the idle down. It was at 12.2 %.
The lowest it would go was 11.4% without the screw touching the tab.
I brought it up to11.8%, However there was play in the throttle pedal, but it's only noticeable when driving, which I found odd.
Suprisingly the engine became quiter with an increase in acceleration and smoothness. Not a huge amount but noticeable. It also leveled out at a steady 800 rpm. It was slightly higher before. I'm keeping a wrench handy, and keep making tiny adjustments after driving to zero in on the exact spot where the play is gone.
With no Scanner a good starting point 1/2 turn after the screw touches the tab. The drive it and make small adjustments until the play in the pedal is gone. Stop there
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-28-2019, 02:13 PM
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did hook up an OBD11 scanner, and drop the idle down. It was at 12.2 %.
The lowest it would go was 11.4% without the screw touching the tab.
I brought it up to11.8%, However there was play in the throttle pedal, but it's only noticeable when driving, which I found odd.
Suprisingly the engine became quiter with an increase in acceleration and smoothness. Not a huge amount but noticeable. It also leveled out at a steady 800 rpm. It was slightly higher before. I'm keeping a wrench handy, and keep making tiny adjustments after driving to zero in on the exact spot where the play is gone.
With no Scanner a good starting point 1/2 turn after the screw touches the tab. The drive it and make small adjustments until the play in the pedal is gone. Stop there
Adjusting the throttle butterfly stop screw is not the correct way.

If you've allowed the butterfly valve to fully close and it still idles, you've got a leak in the intake manifold or a malfunctioning ISC/IAC.

Note: I haven't read the OP because the "wall of text" is not easy to read.

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-28-2019, 03:07 PM
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I've used an ohm meter, volt meter, and an OBD2 scanner on this engine for 4 yrs, and no the butterfly is not closed, but then again in theory if it was tha IAC would compensate due to having it's own port. With 4 yrs of diagnosising this engine, and another 48 of studying emissions and diagnosis on cars and tractors, I'll just say heres another way to find the sweet spot on this particular engine, which at about 18 yrs old are pouring into the auto recycle yards fast.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-28-2019, 03:09 PM
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The slack ends when the butterfly starts pulling on the cable.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-28-2019, 08:32 PM
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https://www.kia-forums.com/1g-1993-2...dle-speed.html

https://www.kia-forums.com/1g-2001-2...dle-speed.html

https://www.autozone.com/repairguide...00c1528005c67c

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Last edited by ron1004; 05-28-2019 at 08:35 PM.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-28-2019, 10:46 PM
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Why would you touch the butterfly stop, no need and shouldn't. What was the fuel trims when you had the scan tool connected. Should be at 0 (+10 or-10). If higher or lower on short term or long term, air leak, MAF problem, rich or lean condition. Adjust throttle stop only mask the problem

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Last edited by Steve_Sidwell; 05-28-2019 at 10:48 PM.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-03-2019, 10:10 AM
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Well whomever had this car was abusive. I picked it up cheap, and after much diagnosis finally went after the Timing Belt, and low and behold it was just loose enough to cause a problem, but not shred. It was suppose to be at 3/10s of an inch play. They had left it at about
Close to half an inch.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-03-2019, 10:13 AM
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My fuel trims:
#1 no higher than 3 above and below.
#2 was at -2.3, with the wrong sensor. I have the right sensor to put in.

10 +/- would be ridiculous.
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