Timing Belt? Interference or not?

[jlahood]

What is the next step?

[ron1004]

Originally Posted by jlahood

I borrowed a good compression tester. Pulled the plugs on all the cylinders. Started on number one cylinder and turned the crank by hand. No compression in any cylinder.

You need to turn it rapidly with the starter motor (fully charged battery) at least five compression strokes or until the pressure levels out.

Originally Posted by jlahood

What is the next step?

I think Dave made that clear.

[DavesSpectra]

You have to turn over the engine (crank it). You will get no compression by hand cranking.
Dave

[jlahood]

Sorry for all the questions. I cranked it with the motor. Nothing. I think it is a done deal.

[derek c]

dave, jlahood should get a very small compression reading by hand turning for if you put you thumb over the plug hole and turn by hand you will hear the air escaping if both valves are closing and not bent.
Your no 3 comment is important for the spark could be 360 deg out and how do you find that out with a ECU on the car
Only turning the engine by hand and put the crankshaft and camshaft back on its marks, remove the belt, turn the crankshaft one full turn and put the belt back on,

jlahood, sorry but you may be on a loosing battle but Good Luck

[jlahood]

Thanks Derek, Dave and Ron1004, I am going to take the belt of and readjust for timing. I will let you know the outcome.

[DavesSpectra]

I believe the cam makes the difference between the compression and exhaust cycles.
(every other full crank revolution). It also sends a cam position pulse back to the ECU/ECM.

The crank moves the pistons up and down and doesn't "know" what cycle it is in (just which piston is up and when. The crank also sends a crank position sensor pulse back to the ECU/ECM.

That's why KIA has you turn the timing belt TWO full revolutions and recheck the marks. (from compression cycle to the next compression cycle). One turn and you would be in the exhaust cycle.

It can't be 180 Degrees out because the intake and exhaust cams are tied together with a chain drive (internally).

The compression test(s) both wet and dry allow you to tell if one cylinder is lower compression (or has none) compaired to the other 3 cylinders..You will get some compression moving the crank pulley but not enough to properly compare cylinders as one cylinder may leak more than the others (bent valve) just before closing fully...There would be "some" compression but how would you gage it against the others?
The battle is not over (lost) UNTIL a bad compression reading says so..

As for "wet" / "dry"...
Dry reading of compression is with no oil on piston rings.
Wet reading of compression is with 1 tablespoon of oil down in the spark plug oil.
The comparison is to check for piston ring wear with much higher compression with oil indicating worn rings.
Dave

[derek c]

Dave, I totally agee with you and what you have written but I was trying to make things simple thats why I said put your thumb over the plug hole to see if the valve head is bent.
We are thinking on the same lines

Regards Derek

[jlahood]

I removed the belt and and moved the pistons half way down the cylinder. Turned each cam. The intake seemed to be fine. The exhaust had some resistance. Reset the timing Has no compression at all.
I learned alot from your posting. Thank you all for your help.