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I have a 2000 KIA Sportage ES 4 X 4 that has a low idle skip and keeps shutting down in hot weather. The problems started when the exhaust manifold cracked. To date I have replaced the exhaust manifold, upstream and downstream sensors, timing belt, plugs and wires, computer, cranksensor and repaired one vacuum leak. I also switched the two main relays in fuse box in the engine compartment. The last thing I did was switch the two main relays and it did run quite a bit longer in 90 weather than it had in the past.
I was told today that a KIA just like mine had this same problem and they replaced the ignition switch and the problem went away. Does this sound realistic or to simple to be true?
if you do not have the cut off problems at any other RPM speeds, I would not believe in KIA then.
Give more details if yo have any other issues (codes), any other rev speeds, acceleration, cold start and so on.
if you do not have the cut off problems at any other RPM speeds, I would not believe in KIA then.
Give more details if yo have any other issues (codes), any other rev speeds, acceleration, cold start and so on.
I'm not getting any codes. The car runs great at any speed above idle. There is no hesitation at any point during acceleration from 0 to 90. I backed off at 90, way to fast for that little car. It shutoff 6 times within a 15 mile stretch of roadway. Let it sit for 10 to 20 minutes will start back up and go from 1 to 2 miles and shuts off again.
Starts great when its cold or hot unless it has just shutoff. I can start it in the mornings and drive sometimes 5 miles and other times 40 miles before it shuts off.
Last edited by steelman1 : 06-18-2009 at 09:14 PM.
Reason: To add more information.
when coasting - does it happen too?
what is the idle speed when it happens? is it normal and engine shuts off, or it's dropping and then shuts off.
If it's dropping and dying slowly - I would suspect incorrect fuel/air ratio. If it dies suddenly - either problem with fuel or spark.
After it died, when you are trying to start - is it trying to jump? If you keep trying to start it, and it will not, remove spark plugs and inspect (smell, observe) for fuel.
when coasting - does it happen too?
what is the idle speed when it happens? is it normal and engine shuts off, or it's dropping and then shuts off.
If it's dropping and dying slowly - I would suspect incorrect fuel/air ratio. If it dies suddenly - either problem with fuel or spark.
After it died, when you are trying to start - is it trying to jump? If you keep trying to start it, and it will not, remove spark plugs and inspect (smell, observe) for fuel.
The idle speed is about 820 RPM, but it never shuts off idling just when driving. All gauges are showing normal when it shuts off. The speed at shut off varies but when it quits it is sudden. If you try to restart as soon as it shuts off it will just spin over but if you wait about 2 minutes and try it, it will attempt to start and die again. It usually takes about 15 to 20 minutes of cooling for it to start and run. It has never shut off while coasting. Thanks for your comments.
Last edited by steelman1 : 06-19-2009 at 07:05 AM.
Reason: To add more comments.
OK, finally I see when it happens.
BTW How did the manifold cracked?
Since you said you changed the relays and it helped to run longer, I would start with testing voltage on them.
Check for voltage before you start it (when ignition is on) in these relays. Note it somewhere. After it dies, check them again. And compare.
At that point - check for lack? of fuel and spark - remove one spark plug and smell it, keep turning for several seconds, remove another one and smell it too. Withe the first one (you will need someone to help) connect to the cable, ground it and look for spark.
The relays are weird thing... where they are located?
And one more thing - after it died - is everything else working well?
OK, finally I see when it happens.
BTW How did the manifold cracked?
Since you said you changed the relays and it helped to run longer, I would start with testing voltage on them.
Check for voltage before you start it (when ignition is on) in these relays. Note it somewhere. After it dies, check them again. And compare.
At that point - check for lack? of fuel and spark - remove one spark plug and smell it, keep turning for several seconds, remove another one and smell it too. Withe the first one (you will need someone to help) connect to the cable, ground it and look for spark.
The relays are weird thing... where they are located?
And one more thing - after it died - is everything else working well?
I'm guessing the manifold cracked from wear. It had 2 cracks that ran almost all the way around it. I looked at several used ones before buying a new one and they were cracked too. I will have to drive it to see if everything else works when it shuts off, I didn't think to check the lights, radio, etc. when it shutoff. I'll check the voltage on the relays and take if for a drive. It's about 96 degrees today so it shouldn't take long for it to shutoff. The relays are located in the fuse box in the engine compartment on the right wheel well cover. I really appreciate your help on this.
Last edited by steelman1 : 06-19-2009 at 01:38 PM.
Reason: Added information.
is there a chance they OVERHEAT somehow? check them just after it dies. open the box and see if they are hot (I mean, really hot)
Sorry it has taken me so long to get back with you, we had a death in the family over the weekend. I checked both relays when the car shutoff and neither of them was overly heated. I did get 2 error codes this time. One is P1115: HO2/s - 17 heater circuit low voltage and the other is P1624: TCM to PCM MIL request signal circuit fault. I haven't had time to log on to Kia's website and check the errors.
I also sketched the fuse box and relay pins and read the voltages when the engine was cold and then again after it shutdown. I did have one pin on the relay that read .5 volts cold and 12.24 volts right after it shutdown. After about 5 minutes I read the voltages again and it was back to .5. I tried to start the car 2 or 3 times after it had cooled for about 30 minutes and it would attempt to start and go dead. As soon as I had tried to start the car I read the relay pin voltages and the 12.24 volts was back and then went back to .5 after sitting about 5 minutes. When I would turn the ignition switch on to attempt to start the engine the HOLD light and CHECK ENGINE light would flash on and off. I have a .BMP file sketch of the fuse box and relay pins showing the cold and shutdown readings but I can't get it to copy and paste into this reply. I think it would help you to see it but I don't know how to get it to you.
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