Seems to run rough for a min then clears ?

[Minty1084]

Originally Posted by Harry Morgan

Dave

It's time to fire up the right-side of the brain here (i.e., "outside of the box" thinking) -- one thing to keep in mind is that most of the "AlGore" sensors are inert until the engine reaches full operating temperature, such that the PCM/ECM defaults to a "rich state" mode of control until those sensors are determined to be ready for meaningful dialog with the PCM/ECM.

The puzzling part in your case is that misbehavior is only transient while achieving that warmed up state -- and cured by briefly goosing the gas pedal. Given this I would start thinking about somekind of possible mechanical issue with the throttle linkage, etc. Perhaps just try tightening up the cable that connects the gas pedal to the throttle body control.

Another suggestion I would have is to try starting it the first thing in the morning and letting it reach full operating temperature before attempting to drive it and see if it continues to present the same issue.

Apart from all of this the only other thing I can think of would be that you may have water in the fuel tank -- maybe try some dry gas treatment during the next fill-up or two... as a last resort, get it low on fuel and just drain the tank.

Finally, what is the current status of the CEL (on/off; sometimes on; etc) ?

Harry

Harry thanks for your reply.
I can say it's definately not a mechanical fault - ie throttle linkage.
It is really strange that it is so consistant that it happens after the same amount of time of starting. I did think about muck in the tank but then I would expect it to play up any time whilst driving.
I am going to check all pipes again and remove the air flow meter to see if it is dirty / faulty.

When I mention about pumping the gas pedal, I must admit that its just a reaction to the engine cutting rather than it making any difference. If I don't pump the pedal it just ticks over and will rev up again when its ready and cleared of whatever fault may be causing it.

The engine light does come on now and again but its real hit or mis and always has done and seems to be a norm for these cars.
Regards,
Dave

[piney]

I have had the same type of problems with my 2000 Sportage. I replaced the idle speed control and it cleared up for a few months but it sputterd gain yeaterday. Is this common with Kia?

[ron1004]

Originally Posted by piney

I have had the same type of problems with my 2000 Sportage. I replaced the idle speed control and it cleared up for a few months but it sputterd gain yeaterday. Is this common with Kia?

Welcome to the forum.

If your car is starting to burn oil, then the exhaust has more contaminents which in turn are fed through the EGR valve to the intake manifold near the throttle body and fouls the ISC.
If this is what's happening, then it's common to cars that use the EGR in their emissions control.

[Minty1084]

Originally Posted by ron1004

Welcome to the forum.

If your car is starting to burn oil, then the exhaust has more contaminents which in turn are fed through the EGR valve to the intake manifold near the throttle body and fouls the ISC.
If this is what's happening, then it's common to cars that use the EGR in their emissions control.

Ok checked the voltage on the Lambda (o2 oxygen sensor) and showing continous voltage output of .4 volts. This should be fluctauting when the engine is warm between approx .2 and .9 volts. It was a cheap ebay replacement part last year when the emissions were sky high and it failed it's mot.
Think the £15 unit has given up (to be expected really). Have just purchased a new replacement sensor (still a cheapy) to check and if it cures the problem will be investing in a quality replacement - probably bosch universal or alike.
Will update tomorrow
Dave

[Harry Morgan]

Dave

I assume we're talking about the "up-stream" O2S (?), as the "down-stream" guy has zip to do with controlling the fuel mix, rather it just signals the failure of the Cat Conv to do its thing.

Though it sounds like you are already aware of this, these babies do have to reach operating temperature before their voltage starts oscillating between 0.1v and 0.9v.

The dilemma I have here with your situation is that your issue occurs only when the engine is fairly cool, then disappears. The "up-stream" O2S will remain in a "rich/fixed" mode until operating temp is reached. While you may have a bogus O2S, I'm having trouble relating that to your problem the way you describe it.

Harry

[Minty1084]

Originally Posted by Harry Morgan

Dave

I assume we're talking about the "up-stream" O2S (?), as the "down-stream" guy has zip to do with controlling the fuel mix, rather it just signals the failure of the Cat Conv to do its thing.

Though it sounds like you are already aware of this, these babies do have to reach operating temperature before their voltage starts oscillating between 0.1v and 0.9v.

The dilemma I have here with your situation is that your issue occurs only when the engine is fairly cool, then disappears. The "up-stream" O2S will remain in a "rich/fixed" mode until operating temp is reached. While you may have a bogus O2S, I'm having trouble relating that to your problem the way you describe it.

Harry

Harry thanks for looking at this again.
On the kia we only have 1 x o2 sensor which is located on the downpipe between the engine and the cat detecting the gases before the cat.
I understand that when the vehicle is cold it requires a rich mixture with less air. The choke in effect cuts down the air supply until the engine reaches a warmer state then the air is allowed to flow through.
I am thinking that maybe if the sensor is providing a false reading then the engine is not staying in a rich state or if it is not for long enough time to enable it to warm up properly ?
I double checked the sus faulty sensor again today and it gave a constant voltage of .45 volts and even after reaching operating temperature did not change even .01 volt either way.
I connected a new sensor and checked the output. For approx 1 minute it stayed at approx .45 volts then hey presto off it went doing its cycle as it should. I unplugged a vacuum pipe and the voltage dropped considerably. I then plugged it back in and it went back again between approx 0.1 and 0.9 volts.
The engine appears to be so much smoother on tick over, the sounds from the rear exhaust quieter and it seems to run better.
Will wait till the morning when its cold to try out, fingers crossed if it solves it then I will wait for this cheap sensor to break down and invest in a decent after market (or original) sensor.
Fingers crossed, be great to get the wife off my back lol
Dave

[Minty1084]

It's Sorted ...... Chuffed To Bits.
Runs Like A Dream, No Spluttering When Cold And Has Been Perfect.
Will Wait For This Sensor To Fail Then Will Definately Invest In A More Expensive Reliable One.

Thanks All.

Hope This Helps Others.

Dave