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I have a Kia Sephia ’97 1.8 DOHC, I love my lil car. A lil background to see if it helps with the determination. The car was originally a manual changed to automatic and something was put in it for colder air. It had a sound system which was taken out before it was sold to the second owner. A lot of electrical tape and cables kinda stripped. The mechanic I talked to said it looks like someone was trying to find the problem and couldn’t or it was mutilated with the stripping of the sound system. Either way I don’t think that’s the problem because all the wires are in place and fine, no exposed wires.
Problem:
It stalls at stoplights, idles rough sometimes, revs while I’m at a complete stop sometimes even inching almost a foot forward forcing me to press on the brakes harder so I don’t hit the car in front. As I slow down I feel the car trembling wanting to shut off, sometimes the lights will come on as if it were off or shutting off and I’m able to save it by letting off the brakes slightly and slowing a lil bit more into the stop. At that point I hear a fire, I don’t know nothing about cars but it’s like a shooting squeaking sound. That’s the part where it revs when it fires like that. I’m assuming that’s the spark plugs misfiring. Sometimes I can’t save it from turning off cuz it happens too fast. I’ll stop and it’ll just die. Was happening more in the morning but now it’s pretty much all the time. It runs great tho aside from that!! I’ve had the car 3 months and grrrr. I need Heeeelp…
What I’ve Done:
I’ve replaced the battery twice, replaced the spark plugs OEM NGK, replaced the air filter, replaced the gas filter, and replaced the valve cover gasket cuz it was leaking oil into the spark plugs. I read on some forums here that it could be ISC/IAC (idle control) and/or MAF sensor. I unplugged both and they looked perfectly fine and clean. I have all my fluids full. Oh but with the sensors I passed a Qtip not sure if that was stupid but it kinda helped a bit with the stalling at stops swabbing the MAF and IAC. Instead of stalling 9 out of 10 stops it went down to 6-10 times this morning which is a huge difference but still wanted to shut off many times but I saved it a few times.
To think about:
The firing squeak sound leading into an acceleration/rev after a complete stop.
Qtip swabbing the IAC sensor/connector helped a tiny bit.
Stalls almost every time I stop or slow to a stop..
If I can think of anything else I’ll repost thanx!!
how much does one cost? and do i replace the whole valve or is there a smaller piece to replace? could it be the timing belt? when i bought the car she said i need to buy a new belt but not sure which one. it wasn't giving me problems until after like a month of driving the car
the whole valve costs like 500 dollars i just found. i disconnected the sensor/plug to the iac and swabbed that and it made a tiny difference so that whole valve where it has two sensor/connectors on the right side i have to take out and clean ur sayin cuz i can't afford a $500 dollar valve
Have The Same Thing - It Happens After The Check Engine Light Comes On And Stays On. The Code Always Comes Back To The Right Fuel Bank And Dtc Po170 Fuel Trim Malfunction. I Can't Afford The $500 For The Complete Check Out. Mechanic Thought It Was A Bad Ground On Map Sensor And Kept Insisting Them Made A "pigtail" For It - Which They Don't. Then He Wanted To Try Replacing The O2 Sensors - Boy Do They Cost. I Am At A Loss Because He Has Had This Car 5 Times And Still Seems To Be Grasping At Straws. It Is Running Rich - Just Check The Tail Pipe. Does Anyone Know What Would Make It Run Rich Besides The Almost $300 02 Sensors?(have 1.8)
the whole valve costs like 500 dollars i just found. i disconnected the sensor/plug to the iac and swabbed that and it made a tiny difference so that whole valve where it has two sensor/connectors on the right side i have to take out and clean ur sayin cuz i can't afford a $500 dollar valve
I think that you've been quoted wrong for the IAC (ISC) valve - I last paid about $60 - you've possibly been given the price of the throttle body complete.
There's two devices attached to the throttle body - one is the position feedback device (TPS) and the other is the (ISC).
Remove the ISC (2 screws) and clean it with carb cleaner.
Have The Same Thing - It Happens After The Check Engine Light Comes On And Stays On. The Code Always Comes Back To The Right Fuel Bank And Dtc Po170 Fuel Trim Malfunction. I Can't Afford The $500 For The Complete Check Out. Mechanic Thought It Was A Bad Ground On Map Sensor And Kept Insisting Them Made A "pigtail" For It - Which They Don't. Then He Wanted To Try Replacing The O2 Sensors - Boy Do They Cost. I Am At A Loss Because He Has Had This Car 5 Times And Still Seems To Be Grasping At Straws. It Is Running Rich - Just Check The Tail Pipe. Does Anyone Know What Would Make It Run Rich Besides The Almost $300 02 Sensors?(have 1.8)
Most commonly a bad O2 sensor would make it run rich, but they don't cost any where near as high as $300.
Get the error codes read by a parts store and post these here.
In the end you could save money if you got it scanned and clearly identified the fault, but then again you could get lucky and the first part you cahnge solves the problem.
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Most commonly a bad O2 sensor would make it run rich, but they don't cost any where near as high as $300.
Get the error codes read by a parts store and post these here.
In the end you could save money if you got it scanned and clearly identified the fault, but then again you could get lucky and the first part you cahnge solves the problem.
They do cost upward of 250 at a us kia dealer..
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Slow down>tremble>idle>stalls
Linear Mode
