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Old 02-13-2008, 12:37 PM   #1 (permalink)
serveace
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Default Fuse blown

This forum has been pretty helpful for me installing stuff in my car, but this is the first time I've had to post.

I have a 2003 kia spectra gs base and I am installing power door locks and remote keyless entry. I had everything hooked up and working, but there were loose wires everywhere. When I prepared to mount the control modules under the dash, I accidentally grounded one of the pins on the control module while it was plugged in (next time, I'll UNPLUG the harness before mounting )

Now, my overhead lights and radio get no power whether the car is off or on. Also, the negative door trigger doesn't appear to work, and when the keys are in the ignition the car doesn't chime.

Long story short, I believe the power wire I shorted was the 2nd wire in the 4-wire harness coming from the starter switch. It read +12V constant on my multimeter before, now it reads 0V at all times. Does anyone know which fuse I could have blown?

I looked at all of the fuses on the inside fuse box and they looked fine. Just for the heck of it, I replaced them all. I also looked at the starter/ignition fuses in the fuse box under the hood and they also looked good. The only fuse I wasn't able to check was a fuse called "room." It is a 10-amp mini-fuse under a brown bracket which I'm having trouble removing. I really don't want to break anything, so I didn't use too much force, but one of the terminals on it was a little black. Does anyone know what this fuse does or how to remove that brown bracket?

I appreciate any help.

-Austen
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Old 02-13-2008, 09:05 PM   #2 (permalink)
kiashuma2
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Default

Sounds like you haveing fun "room" general referes to inside the car and if one of the legs looks a bit black i would say you've found the little pest. ive blown that fuse more times than i can count. To remove the brown bracket it should just pull up and then you can swop the fuse. If it's never been removed before it will be stiff oukk straight up and you should be fine. just a little tip if found works for these cars if you doing anything with the wiring pull that fuse out while you work, it will save you loads of time going to the shop to get more fuses. Just don't forget to put it back in before you test your work. I did and spent another hour, head scratching think why won't it work only to remember i'd pulled the fuse out.

Hope this helps if you need any more info shout up.

Andy
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Old 02-14-2008, 10:52 AM   #3 (permalink)
serveace
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Thanks for the tip. I finished hooking everything up and replaced the fuse last night and everything worked great. Now I have power locks, keyless entry, and alarm fully functioning. I'll definitely remember to remove that fuse when I do electrical work in the future

-Austen
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Old 02-14-2008, 06:23 PM   #4 (permalink)
krceynar
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Hey Austen. . .

Put the specifics on your keyless entry system here. I would like to do the same.

What did it cost? How long did it take?? Any watch-its beside the fuse???

Thanks!
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Old 02-14-2008, 11:14 PM   #5 (permalink)
serveace
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I didn't have power locks in my car, so I had to buy a power lock kit. I got a Protocol 4-door lock kit (PPCL4) from ebay for $40. If you lock/unlock either the passenger or driver door, the rest of the locks follow.

The keyless entry/alarm system I got was a K9 Eclipse system. I also got it off of ebay for $90. It has 2 2-way lcd remotes and also has a hands-free arming feature. Basically, you get within about 10-15 feet of the car and it unlocks itself. The hands-free feature was the selling point for me. The alarm also comes with a shock sensor, so if someone smacks your car, the alarm will sound.

As for the amount of time it took, keep in mind that this was my first car alarm/door lock install, so I was extra cautious not to break anything (a lot of good that did! ). It took about 5-6 hours over a couple days to get everything installed. Running the wires to the power door locks and mounting the actuators on the doors took the longest amount of time because you have to remove the door panels. Also, it helps to have some sort of wire fish when running the wire because there are a lot of tight spaces you have to navigate, particularly on the passenger's front door. Mounting the actuators also was a pain because the door panels don't have a lot space. My hands got pretty cut up doing that. Make sure when you mount the actuators that the wires don't get in the way of the windows when you roll them down.

Probably the easiest thing for me to do was to hook up the wires. This part took me about 15-30 minutes, and most of that time was probing wires for voltage. Speaking of which, make sure you have a voltmeter, because you will need it when figuring out which wires go with which leads from the alarm system. The only difficult part of the wiring was running the wire to the siren, through the firewall, just because it was another tight space.

Organizing the wires in a nice fashion wasn't too difficult, but there are a LOT of wires to organize. I used tons of zip ties and mounted everything to the steering column under the dash. Overall, I am satisfied with the end result. It was a good learning process and I managed to keep all of the wires out of site mainly by running them next to existing wires.

To summarize, I would say the most difficult portions of the install were those where I had limited space to work with. That's how I accidentally blew the fuse, and working in the doors with the doorlock actuators was kind of a pain. If you are comfortable taking the door panels off of your car and working with/tapping into the electrical system, you shouldn't have very many issues.

If you aren't comfortable working with the electric components, check out the12volt.com Info for Installers for some basic tutorials.
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Old 04-06-2008, 02:10 AM   #6 (permalink)
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what exactly does the "room" fuse control. I might have the same problem. I did the exact same thing in putting in a radio and touched another wire. Now my radio has no constant power along with my clock, dome lights and doors (unless the key is turned for the doors to electrically work). I figured it might be that "room" fuse, but I also could not get it out. thanx for any help!!!
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Old 04-06-2008, 12:30 PM   #7 (permalink)
serveace
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It looks like it pretty much controls the constant power to all of the sources you listed. To remove the fuse, I took a pair of needle-nosed pliers and just yanked until the brown harness came out. I didn't bother to put the harness back in place when I replaced the fuse. The harness just seems to be an easy way to disconnect the fuse without misplacing it or removing it completetly. It's pretty unnecessary.

-Austen
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Old 07-20-2008, 08:59 PM   #8 (permalink)
chefjimy21
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Exclamation Blown Fuse

The Same Thing Just happened to me in my 2003 Kia Spectra..can anyone tell me where this fuse is located? I can't seem to find brown bracket/harness
any help would be great
thanks

Last edited by chefjimy21 : 07-20-2008 at 10:59 PM.
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