removing rear light cluster - Kia Forum
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#1 (permalink) Old 01-28-2009, 06:05 PM
jas
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Default removing rear light cluster

Hi,

Has anyone removed the rear light clusters on the SW to change the bulbs?

I took out the 5 securing screws which sit between the cluster and the rear hatch seal, this seemed to loosen the fitting but it would not release, not wanting to force it I refitted them. Is there another fitting inside the car or are the clusters held in with some type of snap on fitting?

thanks
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#2 (permalink) Old 06-10-2009, 11:07 AM
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Question Ceed SW rear light cluster

Hi JAS
I am having an identical problem with the rear light cluster, did you ever find a solution? Was the reason for removal related to the towbar wiring? I have just fitted a detachable towbar and wanting to wire it up - I figured the loom would be behind one of the clusters. Can you - or anyone else - offer any advice on the subject?
Thanks!
Dave
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#3 (permalink) Old 06-11-2009, 05:35 PM
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Dave,

I was fitting my towbar (estate) and the reason was to identify the wiring cables. I though I may get access to the loom below the lights but its not possible as the there is no room for connections. The cluster just pops out, it is held in place with snap on metal fixings, just have to pull hard.

To do all the wiring is a major pain as you have to dismantle most of the interior boot trim, I placed the wiring connectors in behind the boot passenger side panel (uk model) to do this I had to remove the rear seat fixed section next to the doors and then plastic panel below the boot window, it pops off and has bolts at the rear seat top catches, this allowed me to partially take off the rear side cloth panel. In behind this is a large area (behind the rear wheel arch) there is also a connector which joins the main loom to the rear light cluster wiring. I used this to identify each of the wires. There is also plenty of room to fix all the relays. I then had to run the main supply cables all the way to the battery down the passenger side at floor level out in front of the front door, into the wheel arch and upto the battery following the main loom.

Back at the boot I also had to take off the lower boot hatch panels to run 1 cable for the drivers side indicator, again I had to dismantle most of the rear side panels just to connect the indicator. The towbar main cables came in at the same point were the relays are fixed.

Hope this helps, one tip is to use big flat tools to remove the snap on panels as the clips behind them are very fragile. Took me two nights to complete the wiring

good luck
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#4 (permalink) Old 06-13-2009, 03:36 AM
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Hi
I had to change a failed rear light bulb on my SW about a year ago. From what I remember: undo the screws, grap the top section of the cluster and the centre[ the cluster is in two halves]. With a firm pull towards the rear of the vehicle, the top section should come away. Repeat for the bottom section. The cluster is held in [apart from screws], by a sort of ball and socket lugs, which just "pop" out when pulled. Same as my previous vehicle a Rover 75 Tourer. Just reverse to replace. I carry a large cross head screwdriver in the back to remove the screws now. Also Remember the cluster is attached to the vehicle by a wiring loom, with the bulbs in the light cluster, so don't pull to hard. You know what I mean.

Rusty
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#5 (permalink) Old 02-20-2013, 09:24 AM
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I know this is an old thread but I had to replace a bulb recently and it was not straight forward, so I figured I’d share the info.
I’ve attached 3 pictures and hopefully they will attach correctly to this post.
It’s an awkward job replacing the rear bulb….nearly a two man job to make it easier/avoid damaging the light.

Remove the two external screws as per pic 1.
The top of the light cluster should now be free to move but it will still be securely held by a rivet/clip towards the bottom of the cluster. (see pic 2)
To free this, I needed a second pair of hands as I was very reluctant to just pull it and risk breaking the light.
Wiggling the light, I managed to get enough room to put my fingers in from the outside and had a friend use a screw driver to leverage the light from the inside. I was then able to see the ‘ball/socket’ that is referred to in another post.
These clips/rivets are need a little bit of force to unclip them, and unless you can see them and know they are there, it is difficult to be confident that you will not damage the light.
You can see where they go in Pic 3, along with the little plastic ‘guide clips’. These guide clips did not cause any issues/resistance when removing the light.
Once they unclip, the light comes away and then changing the bulb is straight forward, as is re-fitting.

I hope this helps.
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