Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: SE QLD, Australia
Drives: 2001 Kia Carnival 2.5L manual & 2000 Carnival Auto
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I posted awhile back that I was using these single layer steel gaskets with a rubber bead.
But then I posted an update saying they were shit (better than MLS still).
The rubber beading keeps seperating from the steel shim, and allowing either coolant leak externally or oil into into coolant.
There was a good Australian supplier who made ones up out of composite.
Posted his link in another of my posts - "Copper gaskets" or suchlike.
He can still do 'em up - just no longer posted on ebay..
I'm finding these performing well.
Had to retension a couple of oil filler heads after about 50,000km..
higher temps on this head position - suspect fire rings getting pushed more up into the shitty head metal...
Back to good after that - clear sign was over pressurised coolant system with weeping coolant hoses surfaces...
Re the tension.
The manual is for the orignal head gaskets that are either MLS or such.
They usually had compression control built into 'em.
(thick edge banding)
The rubber bead ebay gasket also has this.
I found - not an ideal result for engines that had uneven tilted sleeves..
The composite one I now use just clamps the fire rings down onto the sleeves.
And that's the real limit. The fire rings essentially independent of next door neighbour.
I was going to experiment by removing the width control on the rubber beads, but I found the composite guy..
If not machining heads, the fire ring grooves are another reason part-turn method and gasket width control not best outcome...
So now - tightening only limited by bolt strength.
For the K5 engine studs - try 44 to 46ft.lbs (lubricated)
and only 56ft.lb if oiled(not recommended - always lube)
(conversion is about 62 N.m lubricated)
if reusing engine studs - pay careful note of the stud "feel".
(not worth it for firewall cylinder bank - too hard to get access to if they snap off.)
During retension - do it in stages over eight hours is good - lubricate bolts with a good moly compound.
And if its not getting tighter when you expect
- replace the bolt - its yielded and rotating about to snap. Ya can feel it...
Use some hollow alumin tube if bolt snaps off - you can also often unwind the snapped bolt using the broken section pushed down firm whilst rotating - lube remember...
New studs off ebay are good value.
Note: the part turn method is always a good system - just doesn't account for the shitty k5 engine alloy.
Family man with Kia Carnival 2001
KV6 petrol engine variant.
Rebuilds after years of using as a 4WD substitute...
Last edited by Conglomerate; 10-12-2012 at 09:43 PM.