2003 Sedona motor/engine transmission mount - Kia Forum
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-03-2012, 12:57 PM Thread Starter
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Question 2003 Sedona motor/engine transmission mount

Have a 3.5L 03 Sedona and the front (radiator) & rear (firewall) motor mounts were replaced. Still having noise when letting off gas pedal and accelerating. Being told it's the right(passenger) and left (driver) mounts. Is there also a transmission mount besides, 4 engine mounts & a tranny mount?
I do not have a shop manual that shows the mounts. I'm trying to buy mounts online, and I'm seeing various shapes. Want to make sure I'm buying the correct ones. Any ideas or pictures would help.

Thanks.
Johnny Apollo
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-06-2012, 12:06 AM
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Hi glebar98,

The OE replacement part number for the transmission mount is: BEC1041860 and SL1129431. Here is some examples: Kia Sedona Motor And Transmission Mount -

Hope this helps,
Bruce
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-09-2012, 03:27 PM
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glebar98 - The description of the motor/transmission mounts are confusing.

There are 4 total mounts that suspend the engine/transaxle(transmission) assembly. In the service manual they are labeled 1,2,3 & 4, but the labels are useless when ordering parts not at the dealer.

If you replaced the back mount nearest the firewall and the front mount nearest the radiator. Then the link that bruce2 provide shows the parts you already replaced.

US model, the passenger(left) is called "engine mount" and the driver(right) side is commonly referred to as transmission mount or engine/transmission mount.

I just replace both the left and right mounts yesterday and did the front mount in April of 2011. The left mount wore out at about 30k mile and was previously replaced during the warranty period.

If you have never replaced these mounts, then the passenger is probably broken and the right one will be marginal. I cannot say if it will fix the noise you are referring to, but the driving feel become more solid when they are replaced.

2004 Kia Sedona EX
Sacramento, CA
Over 100K miles
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-01-2013, 07:58 AM
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How hard are these to change? How long did it take you?
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-05-2013, 03:08 PM
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I have a 2004 sedona. I just purchased the front and rear. Got the front one on....trying to get enough torque on the rear one's bolts. Any tips to get to the rear mount bolts? I read removing the intake helps to get to them. Any tips on getting them loosened? Are there any air impact wrenches that will fit....my husky will not.

Last edited by Aenima; 05-05-2013 at 07:09 PM.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-06-2013, 10:37 AM
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It would be easier to access the top bolt from the top which means the intake manifold needs to be removed. I would go ahead to replace the spark plugs while the manifold is off. To loose those tough bolts you can always try to push the close box wench with your leg while lying on your back.

Here are some helpful info:

http://www.kia-forums.com/kia-carniv...ia-sedona.html
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-06-2013, 01:48 PM
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Thanks bruce2! looks like it's off with the intake again. I had it off to replace the plugs/wires a couple months ago. Wasn't sure if there was a way to get to them without removing the manifold, but I guess not.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-03-2013, 06:27 PM
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Default Front/Rear Motor Mounts

I just wanted to let everyone know that I actually got that rear mount changed without removing the intake manifold. I put the van (2004) up on jack stands at all 4 corners (so I could get at it from above and below) and removed all the air intake parts (plenum at the front of the engine compartment, air filter box and plastic pipe into the manifold). I used a 1/2" drive standard size socket with a universal joint and a series of long extensions with a breaker bar to get at the (2) "vertical" bolts from the mount to the frame; and removed the drivers side front wheel/tire and splash shield to get at the single "horizontal" bolt through the mount, again with a series of long extensions.
My suggestion is to use ONLY 6 pt. sockets when attempting to remove the motor mount bolts/nuts, I started rounding nuts with my 12 pt. sockets; and hose them all down with penetrating oil a day or two before you attempt this feat. And have some help ready, I got the front mount changed on my own, but needed assistance with the rear one.
The moral of the story is: check it out before you try or give up; I had plenty of room between the bolt head and the firewall to get the proper tools in there. Mine were hella tight though, especially the back ones. It CAN be done. Good Luck!
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-15-2013, 06:55 PM
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Default Kia Sedona 2004 rear engine mounts

I currently have that same problem the rear engine mount and front driver side
Has to be changed, I ran into a small problem with the rear mount I could not get the rear bolt off and is fearing that I may have to go to the shop and have it replace because I went 4 repair shop and asked how much just to break the bolt and there quote the same as the repair cost 170.00 and that's not at the dealer. But any ways I found this site to be reasonable and with pictures. And if you are
ordering buy the rear and front bolts and nut for both mounts because sometimes they have to cut those bolts off.
_http://www.oemautopartz.com/kia/parts-catalog/kia/sedona/2004/base/3-5l-v6-gas/engine/engine-and-trans-mounting
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-04-2014, 09:36 PM
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I did the rear motor mount just like Matt W. said. Access from the top. You don't need to remove the intake plenum. Just remove the tubing from the air filter box to the throttle body. I used about 3 feet of socket extensions and a universal joint socket. For the bolt closest to the engine I used a deep well 17 mm socket. For some reason it was just easier to line up with the deep socket. For the bolt closest to the firewall I used a regular 17 mm socket. To get to the horizontal bolt I removed the driver side tire and the splash guards. I was able to reach it with the extensions and a universal joint socket on the end with a 17 mm socket. I placed a box end 17 mm wrench on the nut on the other side and let it rest against the sub frame rail. To get the bolts to line up with the holes int the sub frame I had to place a jack under the transmission and raised it a little bit.
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