Harmonic Balancer / Crank Pulley Removal. . . . how to? - Kia Forum
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#1 (permalink) Old 09-03-2011, 06:22 PM
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Default Harmonic Balancer / Crank Pulley Removal. . . . how to?

Hello all,

I have been searching the forums for over an hour tring to find a post that specifically addresses how to remove the harmonic balancer on a 2004 KIA Sedona. I also went to the kiatechinfo site some of the members receommended, but they did not help.

I even need to know if the bolt is removed counter clockwise, or clockwise. I know there is a pully holder, but I am not sure if I need one. I have an impact wrench, but my air tank is a little too small.

I am changing the crankshaft positioning sensor and need to remove the balancer

Your help will be GREATLY appreciated.

Many Thanks!
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#2 (permalink) Old 09-04-2011, 02:15 AM
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Hi king-pin,
Not sure which model u mention, but can refer to the below 2.5L GV6 engine crank shaft remove procedure (1 piece of cut from manual, refer the step 5)..
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#3 (permalink) Old 09-04-2011, 07:30 AM
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nazaria78, thanks for the reply. Yep, I forgot to state the engine spec. It's the 3.5L.

After going back and ciphering on it some more I believe the crank pully bolt comes off clockwise because the engine tunrs clockwise as I look at it with the front passenger side tire removed.

That said, I'm guessing I need a pully holder. Do you have any experience using one of those?
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#4 (permalink) Old 09-04-2011, 06:58 PM
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May i know what u wanna do actually? Wanna remove crankshaft or just pully change?
Not sure what pully holder u need?
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#5 (permalink) Old 09-04-2011, 09:28 PM
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I just did this on my '02 3.5 engine. I have a smaller compressor that pumps up to 180PSI and either that or my wimpy impact wrench was keeping me from removing that bolt. I have 3 impacts and none could get it to go so I borrowed my friends and after about 15 seconds of torquing it spun off.

I have a pulley strap wrench and though I think they work I'm always a little concerned that it'll cause some sort of damage. It's a "Vise Grip" brand with the chain and even with something padding the pulley grooves I'm concerned about damaging the grooves. I have used it that way before along with a pipe over the ratchet for leverage.

If you have trouble removing the bolt with your impact your real problem might be in the install. If you don't get it tightened back well enough it will spin loose later as you're driving, the Harmonic B will work itself away from the block. This allows the roll pin that's in the cog that's under the HB to shear off. When you lose that pin you won't loose the timing belt but you will lose all the drive belts plus the cog has to replaced (3 day special order from KIA in Tulsa). It's actually a cheap enough part but the wait was a bummer.

This happened to me on an '03 Sorento with the 3.5....Locktite on the next bolt, for sure.

As far as the direction of the bolt is concerned, I was curious as to why they didn't thread it the other direction. Had they done that it wouldn't be so much a worry about the bolt loosening and spinning free.
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#6 (permalink) Old 09-04-2011, 10:47 PM
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I totally appreciate the input. Here's how got the bolt off:

I took a 10" extention for my 1/2" breaker bar, along with a cheater pipe and set the 1/2" end of the extention into the dmaper pully bolt.

I set the breaker bar and cheater pipe in place against the forward facing side of the yoke for the passenger side wheel.

I then cranked the car (without turning it on) on the third crank that bolt came loose like shot through a gun :-)

Here's the "funny". I was doing some more research on the P0320 error I got. more than a couple posts (not on this forum) pointed to the CPS, which is why I felt complled to get the damper pully removed. Well, needless to say, the P0320 doesn't point to the CPS. Instead it points to the IFS but only after you check the voltages on the pins. . . Ugh.

So, now I am faced with the question of whether or not to go ahead and replace the CPS, or take it back and get the IFS. I'm at 118k miles and will probably end up replacing the CPS and the timing belt, for that matter. . . . .

Your thoughts?
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Last edited by King-Pin; 09-06-2011 at 02:44 PM.
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#7 (permalink) Old 09-05-2011, 01:01 PM
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Man!! I have to admit I thought of that method but didn't have the guts to do it. Congrats.

I'd just do it all if I had it open unless you don't mind going through another tear down in the future should the need arise. It's not really that bad, especially when you've done it before.
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#8 (permalink) Old 09-05-2011, 08:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tulsacarman View Post
Man!! I have to admit I thought of that method but didn't have the guts to do it. Congrats.

I'd just do it all if I had it open unless you don't mind going through another tear down in the future should the need arise. It's not really that bad, especially when you've done it before.
I admit I was a little apprehensive about it, but hey, it worked However, I ultimately decided to button the whole thing up and left it with the "check Engine" light lit up. I was tired of fooling with it and needed to clean up my mess.

I took your advice though, about using Loctite on the crank pully bolt. I also took the two little bolts off the inspection/access cover to expose the flywheel. I wedged a thick screwdriver against the flywheel mounting plate and the side of the oil pan. If you look you'll see what I mean. This allowed me to get the damper pully as tight as I physically could.

I drove my van back to Autozone to return the CPS. I had them recheck the fault code again just so I didn't miss anything. They came up with the same resolution for P0320. However, I found out that they have another store fairly close that had the IFS (Ingnition Fault Sensor) for $144. I alsmost didn't get it because at $144, I need to be sure that's the problem. I had half a mind to take the van to the "stealership" and have them run their diags on it. But at the end of the day, I'd probably be buying a a IFS anyway.

Well, guess what, that fixed it . When I got home I cleared the codes, replaced the IFS, and made my wife VERY happy

Now WHEN the CPS goes bad, I will have a much better idea of how to resolve it. AND I'll be able to finish in time for dinner

Thanks again for your help.

God Bless

King-Pin drives a 2004 Kia Sedona 3.5L. But his favorite is his 2007 Kawasaki Nomad and his 2007 Suzuki Boulevard C50. . . . oh yeah, and a Ford truck :)
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#9 (permalink) Old 09-16-2013, 03:00 PM
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FInd the size bolt and thread type, and install into the crank shaft as far as you can get it to go. Tap appropriate size threads into the balance, which for me was 12x1.75m. then install the puller and push against the bolt you found. Take care, the shutter wheel on the crank gear will separate./...the crank gear will be mated to the balancer via a dowel and pulling the balancer in this was will pull both items, you will need to access the balancer-gear mate and gently pry the two loose. There is access through the balancer bolt hole to try and drive the dowel back and thus separate the two items but this didn't work for me. DO take caution that the crank gear will slide off the shaft if not retained, as if you were running the car without the balancer installed, you could bend valve. Secondarily i do not think you will be able to get both bolts loose for the sensor without at least taking the t belt tensioner loose. SO go ahead and have your marks lined up correctly
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