replacing timing belt - complicated? - Kia Forum
 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 02-22-2011, 03:16 PM Thread Starter
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Thumbs up replacing timing belt - complicated?

on 2000 Sedona 3.5L; how complicated is the timing belt to replace? Does the engine need to be lowered/raised? Any special tools required? Any help will be appreciated!

Thanks,
Matt
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 02-22-2011, 03:24 PM
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After my experience changing the belt on my 1994 Eclipse, I'll NEVER do it again. No special tools that I can think of, just a lot of patience. I can't imagine how the level of difficulty goes up when you're talking about a "V" configuration. Nimble fingers and skinny arms are a big +.

As careful as I tried to be, I must've done something wrong along the way, because 24,000 miles later, the belt broke.

I highly recommend changing the water pump while you're at it.

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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 02-22-2011, 06:55 PM
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I will put it this way. If you are asking if it is hard, I would say - do not do it.

If you need detailed description of TB replacement, refer to KGIS (link below).

www.kiatechinfo.com USA - free service, manuals www.kia.ca/kia-owners-manuals Canada www.kia-hotline.com Europe (paid service!) www.kia.ca/pages/owner/OwnersManual.aspx?lang=en manuals - must pick model, Canadian version - for free
PRINT IT and put on your car Do you talk/text and drive? Watch it: http://www.oprah.com/oprahshow/Watch...bsession-Video
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 02-23-2011, 09:01 PM
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I have done it once, and will be doing it again along with a water pump replacement in about a week or two. It was not that hard. The biggest thing that I remember is keeping the right bank cams in alignment. Seem one was on the hairy edge of rotating, and seeing the timing marks was difficult. The one thing that I plan on doing different this time is to put everything in alignment, the wire tying the sprockets of the two banks so that they will not be able to move, then remove the timing belt. I have some step by step direction somewhere, and I have to dig the up and I will post them. I found them on the net somewhere.
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 02-23-2011, 09:33 PM
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I found what I had for this. I was found on some forums and internet searches. Here it is


Join Date: Oct 2007Posts: 35 Gallery: 0 help needed on Sedona 3.5L V6 timing belt DIY I am planning to replace the timing belt for my 02 Sedona 3.5L V6. I wonder what the detailed procedures are. I downloaded the free workshop manual from the Kia website, however it is very brief and not quite helpful. I have a couple of questions in mind: where is the tensioner adjustment bolt to release the drive belt and power steering belt? How to remove the engine mounting bracket particularly the lower long bolt that holds the alternator, how to set the belt tension (by automatic tensioner) to factory specs without the factory special tool, and what is the best way to put the new belt on since the 5 sprockets may move freely in the installation.It would be highly appreciated if some experts can upload some pictures from the "real" service manual or real job.Thanks a million.

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05-13-2008, 03:39 PM #2 (permalink)
smcdonaldaz Newbie Join Date: Nov 2007Posts: 5 Gallery: 0 Quote:Originally Posted by hongo I am planning to replace the timing belt for my 02 Sedona 3.5L V6. I wonder what the detailed procedures are. I downloaded the free workshop manual from the Kia website, however it is very brief and not quite helpful. I have a couple of questions in mind: where is the tensioner adjustment bolt to release the drive belt and power steering belt? How to remove the engine mounting bracket particularly the lower long bolt that holds the alternator, how to set the belt tension (by automatic tensioner) to factory specs without the factory special tool, and what is the best way to put the new belt on since the 5 sprockets may move freely in the installation.It would be highly appreciated if some experts can upload some pictures from the "real" service manual or real job.Thanks a million.
1. - Where is the tensioner adjustment bolt to release the drive belt and power steering belt?Answer: Jack up the right side and remove the front wheel, you will find the belt tensioners to the left and right of the crankshaft sprocket. Loosen the center pully nut and then you can loosen the tension bolt below the pulley.2. - How to remove the engine mounting bracket particularly the lower long bolt that holds the alternator?Answer: There are 5 engine mount bolts attaching the mount to the block. You will not see the fifth until you remove the altenator, which took removing the two altenator bolts AND the upper mount so I could get the bolts out.3. - How to set the belt tension (by automatic tensioner) to factory specs without the factory special tool?Answer: Can't answer that one, I had to guess.4. - What is the best way to put the new belt on since the 5 sprockets may move freely in the installation.NOTE: The sprockets WILL move freely, and sometimes with great force, under the tension of the valve springs!Answer: VERY IMPORTANT! - BEFORE removing the tensioner it is important to follow these steps NOT called out anywhere in the free manuals:1 - Find a small nail to hold the tensioner in the compressed position. There is a small hole in the tensioner pistion and the tensioner body. Mine lined up, if yours does not you will have to compress it with a "C" clamp after removal.2 - Use a 21mm socket to turn the crankshaft bolt clockwise until the timing marks on the four cam sprockets line up with the cast tabs on the heads. Correspondingly the crankshaft mark will line hp as well.3 - Get some long heavy duty cable ties/zip ties or whatever you may call those nylon straps that hold things together. Tightly strap the two sprockets of each bank together, (2 each, top and bottom), so that each holds the other from spinning(I didn't, trust me, it's a bugger to line them up and get the belt on!)4 - Now you can remove the tensioner and the beltIt would be highly appreciated if some experts can upload some pictures from the "real" service manual or real job.NOTE: I'm in the middle of this process as I just got the belt in place last evening. I'll try to get some pics tonight that might add value


Kia Sedona
The first generation of the Sedona (1999-2005) was developed to compete with the minivan segment of Toyota Sienna, Honda Odyssey and the Chrysler minivans. It was delivered with a 3.5L V6 engine (195 hp) and was mated to a 5-speed automatic transmission.
The second generation Sedona (2006 to the present) has been upgraded with a 3.8L V6 (244 hp) engine.
Sedona Timing Service Steps
As the Kia line progressed, things didn’t stay as simple as the Sportage. The Sedona, Kia’s version of the ever-popular minivan, is powered by a 4-valve twin-cam V6, so it’s no surprise that belt replacement will be more complex and require some additional precautions.
1. Start by removing the engine cover, drive belt, idler and tension pulley, as well as the power steering pulley.
2. Now you can remove the timing belt covers. While supporting the engine with either an engine support tool or a jack under the oil pan, and being careful not to distort the pan, remove the right-side engine mount.
3. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise and align the timing mark, positioning the No. 1 cylinder’s piston in the TDC position (compression stroke).
4. At this time, the timing marks of the camshaft sprocket and cylinder head cover should coincide with each other.
5. Now you can remove the auto tensioner unit and the timing belt.
Note: Be sure the tensioner arm moves freely and all the pulleys spin free without noise. As with the Sportage, avoid cleaning the pulleys in any solvent. Any sign of binding in the tensioner arm should be dealt with now to ensure the auto tensioner will do its job for another 90,000 miles.
6. Using a vice, slowly push in the plunger on the automatic tensioner, allowing you to install the locking (set) pin. Be sure the plunger retracts smoothly and shows no signs of leakage; if in doubt, replace it.
7. With the No. 1 cylinder still at TDC, reinstall the tensioner and timing belt, maintaining the proper belt tension between each shaft in this order:
o crankshaft sprocket
o idler pulley
o left bank exhaust camshaft sprocket
o left bank intake camshaft sprocket
o water pump pulley
o right bank intake camshaft sprocket
o right bank exhaust camshaft sprocket
o tensioner pulley.

8. In the event a camshaft sprocket rotates excessively, don’t rotate it more than necessary to align the timing mark.
9. When realigning the timing marks, turn the cam in the opposite direction it rotated. If one sprocket is fixed at the No. 1 compression TDC position (on the mark) and the other sprocket is rotated one revolution clockwise or counterclockwise, the intake and exhaust valve might contact each other, resulting in bent valves.

10. After installing the timing belt, put counterclockwise pressure on the right (firewall) side exhaust cam, tensioning the belt, and make sure all the timing marks are still lined up. If so, snug down the center bolt of the tensioner as you prepare to adjust the tension.
11. This engine requires an initial mechanical tension adjustment to keep the hydraulic tensioner in its operating range. To make the mechanical adjustment with the set pin in place, rotate the crankshaft 1/4-turn counterclockwise, and then return it to TDC by turning it clockwise. Using a two-pin tensioner pulley socket and a beam-type torque wrench, push down to exert 50 kg-cm of tension on the pulley, while maintaining the tension. Tighten the center bolt to 32 to 40 ft.-lbs.
12. To check the adjustment, remove the auto tensioner-locking pin and rotate the crankshaft two turns in the direction of rotation (clockwise), returning the engine to No. 1 TDC. Wait 5 minutes and confirm that the auto tensioner rod is protruding 3.8 to 4.5 mm (0.150-0.175”). This is also a good time to double-check that the timing marks are lined up.
13. Reinstall the covers and feel good about a job well done.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-04-2011, 08:54 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys for the help! I appreciate all the advice!
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