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#1 (permalink) Old 07-18-2010, 05:36 PM
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Default battery & brake lights on

Sorry for the lengthiness of this but wanted to be sure I didn't miss any details that may be important. (I probably still did)
2003 Sedona 6v
Thursday the radio just cut off then in a few seconds came back on. Looked at the dash and noticed the Bat. & Brake lights were both on real bright. It acted as if it wanted to stall, so I cut off the radio. Ran a little rough for a few seconds then smoothed out. After a block or so the lights went out(speed was under 40mph at the time)Turned on radio again and it seemed to be ok.(speed about 50mph) I had one more stop and left the van running (someone was in it)after coming back (10-12 min)I find the van off. When i questioned the party in the van he said that he didn't know it shut off, he thought the radio was acting up again. 45 minutes later get a jump start and stepped on the brake to put it in gear and it shut off. Jumped it again and gave some gas and stepped on brake a gain while jumper cables still connected nothing happened. Removed cables stepped on brakes went to Advance auto across the street and the ran a load test. Was told alt.was good and no signs of any shortages. battery showed a 8.v which was kinda low. Replaced the battery with brand new(Interstate MT 35) Friday. Started up just fine when I installed the new. No idiot lights, didn't stall when I had everything on and stepped on the brakes. Go in town on Saturday morn (est.16 mi)ran like a charm.Just had the AC running then. Sat with friend for 3 hrs went to a store brought the friend back to their car, stopped at a store on the way home(30 min) headed home.(16 mi) 3/4 way home,mind just the AC running,(which didn't sound like it was running at full power),the van started to do a little jerky feeling.Look at the gauges and the lights(bat-brk) where on but really ,really dim(doing about 35-40mph when it happened)shut off the AC and the engine smoothed right out but the idiot light was still on, but just barely visible. I played with the AC to see if it would come back on and it did, still not that bright. When I stopped & turned my signal on I noticed the the rpm needle was moving in rhythm with the blinker. Got to the house(2 mi from stop) and as I was slowing down the van started running rough again. I decided to take it back to advance to see if they could check it again.(4.5 mi 45-50mph) As I was coming to a traffic light I went to apply brakes letting off the gas a few seconds before applying. I barely touched the brakes and thought I was going through the wind shield. Applied way less pressure and yet again with a locking up type feeling. As I approach the light and stopped it stalled. Put it in gear, turned key dead,no click no nothing. I let it roll backwards into a gas station and tried again this time only clicks as if it was a dead bat. Got a jump. 1rst time nothing,moved cables then it cranked right up as if nothing was wrong ran like it always did until I stepped on the brakes to put it in gear. Dead. had it towed back to my house. Checked voltage when not running-13. then tried to started and just clicks. jumped and checked voltage at idle was 12-13v.turned on hd lights dropped to 11.99-98. Applied brakes with hd lights on dropped dramatically to 11-10v.released brakes voltage stayed dropping. Rev engine a tad and volts reluctant to come up but did. shut off van after 5 min of idle and would not start. Haven't been back at it since yesterday. Mechanics close at noon on Sat and won't be open til Monday. Any ideas as to what the prob may be as so I know what to say to the mechanic or maybe fix it my self. Have lots of tools and have worked on my other vehicles that were American made and didn't have half of the stuff this others have in the engine. Show me pics with some directions and I'll get on it. if I can't I have family that can(strength wise)
Any help is greatly appreciated & Thanked for in advance.

Regards
BT
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#2 (permalink) Old 07-18-2010, 06:22 PM
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It sounds like you may have a problem with Earth circuits on your car, if you havn't got good connections to earth[ ground ] it can affect your charging, starting and even the ECM of the car and cause stalling etc. I think maybe it would be a good idea to get an autoelectrician to check it out for you, because sometimes these types of things arre a bit hard to track down by yourself. If you can check and clean all the main negative connections to the chassis and engine block , that is a good place to start.

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#3 (permalink) Old 07-19-2010, 09:26 AM
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Hey Thanks Pulsar86 for the quick reply,
Just heading out the door to the shop so they can check it out. I'll post back their findings when I find out.

Regards

BT
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#4 (permalink) Old 07-19-2010, 05:13 PM
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Well the verdict is in and it was the alternator. Sad thing is Can't get it fixed until next month . The cheapest around here is $426.00 in the vehicle and out the door. I'm on a fixed income and it is not happening this month. My son wanted to do it but if he messes something up trying to get it out that's going to cost me more. It isn't easy at to get out. Read that the "simplest way to get it out you have to remove the radiator and finagle it out in front of the engine.As I said not an easy job.
Thanks for the insight and just wanted to post the results in case someone else has the same symptoms as I did. Doesn't always mean the problem will be the same but at least it will be one elimination off the list of possibilities.

Regards

BT
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#5 (permalink) Old 07-20-2010, 01:10 AM
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A good autoelectrician should be able to fix most alternators without full replacement, that is the main way we do it in Aus as replacement parts other than genuine are harder to obtain here than in some places, like the USA. Shouldn't cost as much to rebuild it as replace it.. most auto electricians are good guys from my experiences with them. We have a couple in the close family circle of friends.

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#6 (permalink) Old 07-20-2010, 05:03 AM
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Yes, brake & battery lamps indicate alternator failing to charge.
Will generally go for about 50Km before battery runs out of oomph.
Sounds like your battery was a good-un.

Check your alternator casing, a short between its coil and its external housing will do it.
I saw one where a bit of the housing ventilation rib was broken and dangling touching.
Even a build-up of dirt/insects will do it....
That's the if you are lucky outcome...

Buying a car wrecker replacement is always a good option.

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KV6 petrol engine variant.
Rebuilds after years of using as a 4WD substitute...
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#7 (permalink) Old 07-20-2010, 11:30 AM
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@ Pulsar86: From what I could see it seems like it would be really hard to get to to repair. Don't you have to remove it to work on it?

@ Conglomerate:
I'm going to get it now and will check the housing(not that I'm 100% sure of what I'm looking for) to see if there are any worn/cracked or broken wires and check for bug build up.
The strange thing was at the shop when they checked the alternator it would show that it was charging then it wasn't. They seemed a little confused at first then they used one of their batteries and said Nope not charging. No body tried revving the engine to see if it would start charging again.??? Anywho. It's coming home and I'll do the best I can in checking it until I can find diagrams of how it should look.
Thanks for the input and will keep the update until it is fixed.

Regards
BT
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#8 (permalink) Old 07-20-2010, 02:25 PM
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update
The mechanic informs me that the only way to get it out(the alternator) is to remove the ac hose(solid not flexible) which means releasing the freon and having to refill it again. He said that even with the radiator and hood latch out of the way that the hose going across the top of the alt will hinder its removal. According to this guide it doesn't mention that particular hose.
CarGurus
I"m not sure if there is any difference in how to remove it from one year to another. Any links that show how to remove this on my 2003 would be helpful IF I or my son decide to attempt this. I'm still going to check it out (housing,wiring...) before going any further.

Regards
BT
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#9 (permalink) Old 07-20-2010, 07:20 PM
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Sorry about the basic question, but are you in the US (Florida)? Also, I'm not sure what you mean by 2003 Sedona "6V". I only ask because if you are in the US, with a US model Sedona with the 3.5L V6 I can guide you through the removal and install process. No disruption to the radiator/antifreeze/or ac system required!!
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#10 (permalink) Old 07-20-2010, 08:27 PM
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Quote:
Sorry about the basic question,
You've done nothing to be sorry for
Quote:
are you in the US (Florida)?
You bet your sweet bippy I am in the U.S.A. and yes in Florida.
Quote:
Also, I'm not sure what you mean by 2003 Sedona "6V"
US model Sedona with the 3.5L V6
From looking at the picks posted HERE and looking at my van, this I would like to hear/see. That bad boy is down there and there is only one other way that I read and that was to do with taking the wheel off. I'm for anything that doesn't involve messing with the Ac. It is way too hot right now to loose it.
I'm also for the best way as to not cause any more damage to the vehicle. So please go on. I won't be doing this until next week as that is the only time my son (who was going to help)will be able to come up from S.FL.

Regards

BT
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