Piston Liner Sleeve sealant

[Conglomerate]

Kia carnival 2.5L Petrol KV6:
Australia

I note the Hylomar universal blue as specified for sealing the liners into the blocks. And Lotus tests showed it staying in place resisting the coolant flow.
And I think RPM were using a blue silicone on their reconditioned liner work.
(It peels off easily though in an engine that has been overheated - probably not the best to have floating around)

And I'm guessing that Bars Leak also locks the liners in place if given an opportunity short of a major leak. At least my first liners never even budged when rotating crankshaft trying to get a piston out.

A lot of Loctite threadlockers get mentioned.
Advantage being they may resist some of the block softening/liner movement
that is problematic.

Experimenting with the Loctite 641

See attached Loctite automotive selection guide
http://www.loctite.com.au/aue/conten..._Catalogue.pdf

Others may have differing opinions.

[Conglomerate]

On consideration, I'd like to use the Hylomar Advanced Formulation Product
Similar to the Universal blue, but better adhesive and temperature properties.
(No solvent as part of product)
But reality is that its not readily available near me.
In Australia, ACL is an importer with a chain of distributors.
But most only sell the Universal Blue - as that is the only demand.
So my local Autopro store has the Universal product.
Will smear product on the liner spigot, the head bore internal, and the liner shoulder.
Let solvent evaporate, 10-15min. Then slide together & assemble.

Had to face the fact that I'm not going to get the engine aligned,
and head on before liner cures the Loctite product.
Also, locking up the sleeve when the block & liner are dissimilar expansion rate alloys may not the best.
Product will not be strong enough to avoid shearing etc and compromising any seal.
So will rely upon the Hylomar to seal enough, and the Bars Radiator Stop leak,
to do its thing again.

Both RPM & QMR engine rebuilders have generally used the flexible option.
Ya gotta trust this - with the number of engines processed by 'em.

[razzledog]

So RPM did rebuild the Kia engines...funny 'cause I just picked up a long motor with 'RPM' stamped above the engine number. Luckily the sleeves are still slightly proud of the block by a few thou...Can't wait to pull the sleeves and see what they used to seal the base of them.

I had the idea of machining an O ring groove in the base of the sleeve, but as it only has a 2mm wall thickness at that point it could be risky. Then I saw a guy in Korea had already done it, so I guess a 1mm O ring might be the way to go!
I still don't like the way the Hylomar had disintegrated on the motor I just rebuilt...(which is still purring after nearly a 1000k). I used a super expensive 'resist all' motorcycle engine sealant called ThreeBond 1207B which sticks like shite to a blanket, but remains rubbery. The most important fact is that the liners sit slightly above the deck, if they drop below, they will certainly move and consequently leak.

I think head bolt tension plays a very important role too as the engine block was designed to be held in tension, much like a concrete bridge pylon.

More to come with the rebuild of the spare motor....I pulled it from a wreck in 2 hours complete with heads for only $170 The Carnival engine is dead easy to work on when you know where yer goin'...and it does come out through the top without removing the bonnet (hood).

P.S. Still cannot find out if the block was modified to overcome any tendency to collapse, or was it just the fact that sleeves were made too short in the early engines. With all the bitching and moaning posted over the years about this engine, it seems no one really knows the facts about the replacement engines.