Replacing 2005 Sedona Timing Belt

[humphry]

Hello,

I am in the process of changing the timing belt in my 2005 Kia Sedona, 3.5L engine. I have done a lot of reading on this site and am hoping for some advice with my problem.

I have the old timing belt removed. When trying to put the new belt on, I can't seem to get enough tension around the right bank cam sprockets to allow me get the belt onto the tensioner pulley. As I am sure this must be a common problem, are there any tricks to this that anyone can share?

Also, I am able to keep the cam pulley's pretty secure but now and then they do jump. When they do I hear a ting sound, kind of like a child's bicycle bell. Is this causing any internal damage when this happens? Like possibly valve stems slamming into pistons?

I have read a few posts on here about a cam holding tool from autozone. I stopped by an autozone store and they don't sell it. I also looked online and they don't seem to sell them. Maybe if they used to, they are discontinued now.

Here is a pic of what I am using. This plastic block is meant for use in putting tension between a primary chain and sprocket on a motorcycle. But it does a decent job of holding the cam pulleys in place too. But now and then it does drop out and then they jump and I have to reposition them.



Can anyone recommend a better type of cam holder? Is something like this prefered?

Lisle LIS36880 Dual Overhead Cam (DOHC) Lock Tool | Engine, Trans., and Driveline Tools

Thanks for any advice. Most of all I am hoping for tips to my first question as to how to get the belt on the right bank cams.

[mattybyzf]

You're on the right track. The cams do always jump around, especially on bank one (firewall side). What I do is before I remove the timing belt (i know it's too late for that now), i get everything timed. If you look through the cam sprockets onto the cylinder and head cover, you'll see a couple of threaded holes cast into the head. What I do is put a bolt in that hole through the cam sprockets, and use some pretty big washers. It holds the sprockets in place without some bulky tool being in the way while I'm trying to work. I only do this on the bank 1 sprockets for two reasons. 1) These two cams move on their own way to easy, where the bank 2 cams don't, and 2) It's easy to set the belt on the front ones. Once that is done I gently clamp the belt to the sprockets with a lightly sprung, soft jawed clamp (Harbor Freight). I always set the crank first, and place a stubby flathead screwdriver between the belt and the casting for the timing cover bolt threads directly below the crank sprocket. This prevents the belt from falling off the crank. Set the idler, then the first cam, then I clamp the belt. Set the second and clamp that too, and continue in this fashion. It's worked for me every time. Another thing with this belt job, you need a special tool to properly adjust the preload on the tensioner pulley (the 2 tiny little holes near the primary 14mm bolt head right on the pulley).

[humphry]

Thank you very much, mattybyzf. I will do as you suggest with the bolts & washers, and also with clamping the belt to the sprockets. Maybe that is where I have been going wrong - just trying to keep the belt tight by pulling it.

I have read on this sight that the special two-pin tool is not needed. That you can just put downward tension on the pulley and tighten the bolt. It sounds like you recommend using the tool. Do you know where I can buy it?

Also, any idea if it causes any damage when those cam pulleys jump?

Thanks very much for your help. You have probably already got me through my current problem. Wish I didn't have to wait until 5:30 to get back at it! Only about 2 1/2 to 3 hours of usable daylight after work doesn't give me much time to spare.

edit: I should mention that I am keeping tension on the belt at the crank in a similar way as your screwdriver trick. Just stuck a socket between the belt and the casing. I can keep tension on the belt all the way around the first set of 2 cams. I think your clamp idea will allow me to get the belt on the rest of the way.

[mattybyzf]

I think the tool is dealer only, but the method you mentioned should work fine. The noise you heard shouldn't be an issue. I've had it happen a ton of times with no resulting problems. Now, if the cams jump while driving or idling, that's a different story. But from the cams just turning under the pressure of the valve springs, you'll be fine.

[humphry]

Thank you very much. Very big help. When and if I ever get through this I will post my progress. I have seen several related threads all promising pictures to come later, but I haven't ever seen any of the follow up pictures. I too have been taking pics to help me put it all back together and I will do my best to get them on here when I am finished in order to help others.

[ESKORT27]

Make sure you start at the crank and work counter clockwise, finishing the last pulley being the tensioner.

[humphry]

Yep! That's the order I have been working. The hard part has been getting it over that tensioner pulley. I think clamping the belts should help with that. Thank you.

[ESKORT27]

have you put the tensioner in a vice and pushed the center pin back and locked it in place with a lock pin? If not you may blow the engine. Yes you can take up the slack with the pulley, but you need to compress the hydrolic part of the tensioner then bolt it back in, take up the slack with the pulley then remove the lock pin. If you dont, the tensioner will not be able to take up slack automatically as the belt stretches.

[humphry]

Thanks ESKORT27, Yes I have done that. I used a small drill bit for a locking pin and the tensioner is back on with the pin still installed.

Hey, have you done this before without using the two-pin special tool? If so, how did you put tension on the pulley? Just pull down with your hands? Because I'm thinking that's what I intend to do, but if there is a better way I'd love to know it.

Just got back from lunch - went to harbor freight as mattybyzf suggested and got 4 locking clamps. The jaws have rubber tips on them and work on a slide, operated with a trigger. Hopefully this is what he was referring to. They do look like they will hold the belt to the pulleys.

[ESKORT27]

i have the 2 pin tool but i dont use it, its more of a pain than anything. I use a screwdriver and pry between the pivot arm and the pulley. i take up all the slack with the pulley and then remove the lock pin, this allows alot more movement from the tensioner if needed.