Relacing motor mount

[KiaSon]

Has anyone ever changed the #1 motor mount on a 2005 Sedona.

[cjmck422]

Which one are you referrring to as #1? The lower-rear mount by the firewall, or the lower front mount by the radiator?

[KiaSon]

It's the rear mount

[Pacosworld]

Originally Posted by KiaSon

Has anyone ever changed the #1 motor mount on a 2005 Sedona.

Two bolts mounted to subframe (use 17mm or 19mm socket) and 1 through the mount. If you're doing this in the driveway, I would raise the front end and put on jackstands. Put a carjack and a block of wood under where the engine and trans meet to take the pressure off the mounts. Then should be able to unbolt.

[KiaSon]

I will be ordering the part and wait for the weather to get a bit warmer to give it a try.

Thanks

[cjmck422]

The 2 mount bolts and the through bolt head & nut are 17mm. Space is very limited in there, so it may be difficult to swing a ratchet with enough torque/leverage to break the bolts loose. I do these mounts quite often, while the van is up on a lift, I've found it advantageous to loosen the 2 19mm nuts at the front of the subframe to the end of their studs (do not remove), remove the19mm nuts and bracing bars at the rear of the subframe. This will allow you an additional 1 to 2 inch clearance by lowering the subframe, just enough that you can wrangle in an impact gun w/ a shallow swivel-head socket. If you are doing this repair in the driveway I would say you should probably not undo the subframe nuts, if you do not have a means to get the subframe back up.

[KiaSon]

From what you said it looks like all the work is done from below. I was wondering if I have to lower the sub frame, how much of a problem is it to lift the sub frame back in place.?

I have jack stands, impact gun and a floor jack to do the job

[cjmck422]

Well, sounds like you have sufficient tools to do the job. Before you get started, get the help of an assistant in case you run into any problems.

You'll need to raise both front wheels off the ground enough so that you can slide the jackstands underneath. You want to place them where the subframe will not rest on them (for this I usually use the two vertical metal braces behind the rear of the subframe). This next step is entirely up to you, its not necessary, but may make the job easier. From underneath the rear of the subframe you'll see an aluminum bracket that the through-bolt for the mount goes through, there are 3 17mm bolts that hold this bracket to the transmission. With the transmission securely supported with the floor jack, remove these 3 17mm bolts and the engine mount through-bolt (also 17mm bolt head and nut), remove the bracket from the vehicle, slowly lower the floor jack to lower the transmission and slide out the floor jack. Next, as I stated before, loosen the 2 19mm nuts at the front of the subframe, but do not remove them. Next go to the rear of the subframe and position the floor jack underneath the rear crossmember of the subframe, raise it up untill it just makes contact with the subframe. Next remove the 2 19mm nuts at the rear of the subframe, you will also need to remove at least 1 17mm bolt from each bracing bar, the other one will need to be loosened enough that you can lower the bracing bars and swing them out of the way of the subframe, or removed, your choice. Next, if the subframe doesn't drop on its own, get a prybar, and gently pry between the rear of the subframe and the floor of the van, but be careful if you pry it down too much you may dislodge the steering shaft that goes to the steering rack. Once the subframe is down, stick a block of wood or similar between the subframe and body (for this part I use a 2 inch pickle fork, wedged in between the l/r subframe mount and body (right below the driver's side), this will hold the subframe while you remove the mount bolts. The rear-most bolt is easiest of the two to get out, sometimes the inset bolt can be real stubborn to get at and get out. Now this is where removing that aluminum bracket comes in handy, if you have a problem getting that inset bolt out, what I usually do is once the rear bolt is out, take a hammer (I use a 4lb head) and tap the mount on the engine (round) side, so as to force the mount to turn in a counter-clockwise direction (when looking at it from the top), with this transmission bracket removed the engine mount will begin to turn on the inset bolt, breaking it loose so it will then be easier to remove, it may take a few good whacks before it will start turning. When installing, just reverse this procedure, start with the inset bolt, get it started then the rear mount bolt, tighten them both down. Next, when it comes to reinstalling the aluminum bracket, start with the three bracket bolts, get them in and tight, jack up the trans to line up the holes for the through-bolt, put it in and tighten the nut. Once everything is tight with the mount and bracket, jack up the subframe, and reinstall. That about sums it up. Good luck, I hope this helps you out

[KiaSon]

Your detailed description on how to do the job is great I fiquire if I follow your instructions I should have no problem doing the job.

Thanks