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Old 05-05-2008, 06:03 AM   #11 (permalink)
93fxdl
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scalpel? thats a bit high tech! on other engines i have done if anything moved i just turned it back the way it came something you could try is wooden wedges behind the pulleys to wedge them in place and hindsight is a wonderfull thing did you count the teeth between pulleys before surgicaly removing your belt?
ttfn glenn
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Old 05-05-2008, 07:19 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Hiya Glenn, No I just thought it has to come off Im too far into the job to turn back......all the DOH`s and FEK`s came immediately after I cut the belt off then realised that the new belt was too long and that the pulleys had moved a bit
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Old 05-05-2008, 08:22 AM   #13 (permalink)
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hi again , here is a link to the instalation diagram could not seem to add ot to this message ???
http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/5/0/1...30864733_o.jpg

dont worry about which way to turn just gently turn untill the timing marks line up if there is any contact you wont be able to turn and there will be no damage if done gently .
my advice : first breath take a breake and clear your head , next the twin cams wont stay in place cut a piece of steel and put between the teeth toward the bottom .then put one of the engine mounts bolts in the screw hole between the cams, line the markins up and wedge somthing to hold them in place between the bolt and the steel piece , next the pump sprocket hole is bigger than the locking hole in the engine i used a pin the width of the sprocket hole and cut it down on the end to make a tight fit . and as for the bottom end there is a notch on the sprocket and one just above at about 12 oclock line these up ,
you wont get the bottom 38 mm bolt out with a ratchet the engin will just turn you need a impact gun a cheap impact gun in woolworths is £20 that should do the job or do llike i did and ask a mobile tyre fitter poped it of in seconds .
hope all this helps its bank holiday monday and im fighting my injectors to work should be away for the weekend but im having a break will it rains.........best wishes mark
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Old 05-05-2008, 12:51 PM   #14 (permalink)
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totally off thread but i have just shot myself in the foot by mentioning pinto cam belts it now looks like we are getting an old mk2 transit camper with guess what a pinto engine!!!! so will have to service and weld up that why oh why didnt i mention the ferrari that takes two days to change the cam belts as like the sedona you are supposed to take the engine out to do them or the m series bmw with cam chains!!!!!!
ttfn glenn, soon to have arc eye and busted fingernails
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Old 05-06-2008, 11:10 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Ive spoke to a few mobile mechanics and they suggested locking the fly wheel, by sticking a big screwdriver between the teeth.

Anyone advise or have any pics of the flywheel and its whereabouts

Pete
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Old 05-06-2008, 11:41 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Pete

sorry to hear your in a sticky one.Cant offer you much advice. For anyone else who may be planning a job like this a mechanic once told me he changes many timing belts without specialist tools by cutting off half the belt lengthways,leaving half of the whole belt on. He then fits the new belt and cuts off the other half of the old belt.

Robin.
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Old 05-06-2008, 04:58 PM   #17 (permalink)
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the flywheel is the other end from the belts i believe there is a tin plate between the engine and gearbox which may or may not be removable if not you will probably have to drop the starter motor out or possibly bend the tin plate out of the way to get access to the ring gear
ttfn glenn
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Old 05-07-2008, 05:40 AM   #18 (permalink)
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fek fek what ever can go wrong ALWAYS goes wrong for me when attempting DIY see my Changing brake pads thread also for an example

Struggling to think of where to go next on this one
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Old 05-07-2008, 07:38 AM   #19 (permalink)
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the next suggestion is try undoing the nut using the large hammer and chisel trick this has the plus point of allowing you to work out some agression and if it all goes totally pear shaped you have now got to the situation where things can only improve. a couple of more sugestions (yes i am full of useless infomation/crap) before you go any further give the bolt a few good whacks with you best/biggest hammer directly on the end then try the socket again put a load on it then give the socket a few whacks all this hitting (precision adjustment)will hopefully shock the bolt loose and finally if everything elsefails after getting a spare bolt weld a piece of bar across the head of the stuck bolt and beat it with a lump hammer but pour water over it straight after welding to thermal shock it and also stop the heat from migrating to far and damaging seals etc
ttfn glenn
go on beat it with a hammer you know you want to, well i do at least !!!!!!
just to cheer you up your veg oil thread is now the longest in the sed forum and second only to plug changing for views and closing fast!

Last edited by 93fxdl : 05-07-2008 at 11:39 AM. Reason: adding info to cheer up an unhappy bunny and other such gibberish
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Old 05-11-2008, 09:58 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Woo hoo Ive gotten the bolt out lots of stress releasing hammering it and some heat....!

But me being Unlucky Alf it appears that my 2nd new timing belt is also wrong....!

Its got 151 teeth and 29mm wide whereas my old belt has 152 teeth and is 30mm wide

The new one has a part number of OK55112205B
Where as I believe it should be 0K88R12205 anyone in the know tell me If I am correct ?!?!?

The new one appears to be too small I cannot get it around all the cogs the only way is if I completely remove the tension pulley

So glad this is not a rush job
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