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Sorry for the length of this but, it all matters...
First, I have a 2004 Sedona with a 3.5. The car has 62000 miles and is up to date on all maintenance required to this milage point, except timing belt.
A week ago I was driving home from work. The car had acted a little different that morning, a slight lack of power. About 5 miles away from the start, the car started shaking extremely bad and the check engine light came on. I pulled over immediantly and checked all the fluids, all were well. I had no option but to continue to drive home. It would shake immensly going up hills, however, at cruising speeds it was ok, not great.
The following day I did the obdII test and found that it had a P0301 code. So, I started with the basics, changed the plugs and tested the coils. I found that the plug in cylinder 2 ( according to a firing order I found at work, it is the is the furthest cylinder on the passenger side front) was the poster boy of fouled carbonized spark plugs. The electrode was completely covered, impossible for any spark. Also, the coil for cylinders 1 and 2 was bad, it tested at 5.5 ohms. So, I replaced it and reset the OBDII.
When I started it, a sizable cloud of smoke puffed out, I assumed it was the residue left from #2. The van ran ok, it seemed to be a little rough but, I figured it would work it's way out. I took it around the block and the engine light came back on. When I got home I checked codes and found a P0302 code this time. So, I pulled the plug to make sure it wasn't fouled already. It was fine. Then I changed the oil (as when I last changed it I used 5w30 Mobil 1 and wondered if, maybe, it was blowing by) using a 10w40 along with Lucas oil treatment, just hoping. It actually ran better, but, the light came back on intermittently and then set for good. I decided to just drive it for a couple of days and see what happens.
Well, what I discovered was that when I would drive to the highway (about 10 miles) the Check Engine light would come on and go off. When I saw the light come on, then I would let off the gas or give more and it would go off. This would only happen at 800 - 1200 rpm's. By the time I would get to the highway the light would finally be set. So, i would pull over, erase the code and continue on the highway for 40 miles. It runs great until I get off and back to city drivng.
Next, to eliminate the ignition, I replaced all the coils, removed the plenum in it's entirety, replaced the plugs with factory type plug ( I had used Bosch +2), changed the wires, checked the vacuum lines and replaced the plenum gasket. However...it did the same thing, except, when I was able to maintain over 1500 rpm's it ran incredibly well.
Now, the last thing I have done today (and am now throwing my arms up) is pulled the plenum back off, removed the fuel rail, cleaned the injectors, moved the injectors from known "good" cylinders to #1 and #2, and replaced the PCV valve. When I was done I ran it through the paces and felt whole heartedly that it was fixed. I let it idle for a bit and the light did not come on, I was excited. A few hours later I was going to go to the store, started it and was able to drive for 5 miles and that GD light came back on! Same code P0302.
What else could it be? I didn't think it would be mechanical as it only happens at a very low RPM. Tomorrow I'm going to compression test but, I just don't see how there'll be a problem there. Also, I called KIA to pick their brain, appearently they don't like to permit that and then treated me like a moron.
Any thoughts would be most appreciated...PLEASE!
Last thing. The cylinder order I have is...................
Passenger _________
l 2 l 1 l
Front of car l 4 l 3 l
l 6 l 5 l
_________
Driver side
Most vehicles have Exhaust Gas Reciculation Valves which allow a certain amount of exhaust fumes into the inlet manifold to ensure clean emissions, controlled by the ECU. They get carboned up and jam. I would check it.
Most vehicles have Exhaust Gas Reciculation Valves which allow a certain amount of exhaust fumes into the inlet manifold to ensure clean emissions, controlled by the ECU. They get carboned up and jam. I would check it.
If it was the EGR valve, you'd most likely see an issue with all cylinders instead of just one. The EGR system is shared with all cylinders, since wgmay1 is only having an issue with the #2 cylinder, we have to look at things the would only affect that cylinder, spark plug, plug wire, injector, piston, rings, valves, and such.
I checked the compression and found that cylinder 2 has none. Cylinder 4 and 6 both have 120". I had come to the conclusion to yank the head before I did the test, as I feel 99% confident it is a intake valve stuck. I'll keep you posted.
I checked the compression and found that cylinder 2 has none. Cylinder 4 and 6 both have 120". I had come to the conclusion to yank the head before I did the test, as I feel 99% confident it is a intake valve stuck. I'll keep you posted.
Glad to hear you made some progress. Looking forward to hearing what you find.
how did you make out and what is the firing order for an 02 Sedona? Is it 1-3-5 in the front and 2-4-6 in the rear? I am particularly interested to know where cylinder 6 is located.
I have recently installed a reconditioned K5 motor into my Kia Carnival/Sedona. Everything has been installed correctly and the engine starts to kick over but it coughs and splutters like it is misfiring. I have attached the leads to the coils matching the numbers on tops but I thinks these are incorrect. Could someone tell me from left to right (Front to Trans-axle)the order of the leads on the three coils. Currently they are 1,4,3,6,5 and 2. This is in Australia and would like some advice on the correct lead order and firing sequence.
Drives: 1990 VW Corrado SC 1.8L, 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT, 2005 Kia Spectra EX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sbuswell
how did you make out and what is the firing order for an 02 Sedona? Is it 1-3-5 in the front and 2-4-6 in the rear? I am particularly interested to know where cylinder 6 is located.
This should help.
V-6 Sensor Designations and Cylinder Numbering
• Sensor 1 designates the sensor is before the catalytic converter.
• Sensor 2 designates the sensor is after the catalytic converter.
• Bank 1 designates the sensor is on the bank with cylinder number 1.
• On Kia V-6 engines, bank 1 (cylinder 1) is the firewall side of the engine.
• As a rule of thumb on a V-style, cylinder 1 is always farther forward on the engine than cylinder 2.
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04 Sedona Engine Problems. Code P0302
Linear Mode
