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1. Disconnect high-tension code from spark plug.
2. Remove the spark plug.
3. Connect the spark plug to a high tension code.
4. Hold the spark plug with insulated pliers 5~10mm from a ground.
5. Crank the engine and verify that there is a strong blue spark.
If there is no spark, inspect the following points.
Step Inspection Action
1 Check for good connection of ignition coil Yes Go to next stop.
No Repair or replace
2 Check if resistance of high-tension leads are OK Yes Go to next step.
No Replace
3 Check if the ignition coil is electrically charged
1) Ignition switch "ON"
2) Check if the engine coil (+) is electrically charged
Yes Go to next step
No Check the wire harness between ignition switch ignition coil and ECM
4 Check if resistance of ignition coil is OK
Resistance
Primary : 0.36~0.44Ω (at 68°F (20°C))
Secondary : 10.9~13.3kΩ (at 68°F (20°C)) Yes Go to next step
No Replace
5 Check if ECM is OK Yes
No Replace
REMOVAL
Do not attempt any maintenance on spark plug if engine is hot.
1. Disconnect negative battery terminal.
2. Carefully remove high-tension leads.
3. Use compressed air to blow any dirt or debris from around spark plug hole.
4. Check that spark plug fits squarely in spark plug socket and remove spark plug.
Raise a vehicle and install SST(OK552 131 001) in order to replace cylinder 2, 4, 6 spark plug.
1. Disconnect high-tension code from spark plug.
2. Remove the spark plug.
3. Connect the spark plug to a high tension code.
4. Hold the spark plug with insulated pliers 5~10mm from a ground.
5. Crank the engine and verify that there is a strong blue spark.
If there is no spark, inspect the following points.
Step Inspection Action
1 Check for good connection of ignition coil Yes Go to next stop.
No Repair or replace
2 Check if resistance of high-tension leads are OK Yes Go to next step.
No Replace
3 Check if the ignition coil is electrically charged
1) Ignition switch "ON"
2) Check if the engine coil (+) is electrically charged
Yes Go to next step
No Check the wire harness between ignition switch ignition coil and ECM
4 Check if resistance of ignition coil is OK
Resistance
Primary : 0.36~0.44Ω (at 68°F (20°C))
Secondary : 10.9~13.3kΩ (at 68°F (20°C)) Yes Go to next step
No Replace
5 Check if ECM is OK Yes
No Replace
Removal of the intake manifold is definately the way to go. I took everything of the intake first like 2 brackets on the left hand side that hold some wiring and unclipped some on the very back corner on the left hand side. You need to be careful because two of these three connections have one of those wire clips. The first clip is on top and easy to put back in on install. The second is between the intake and firewall and the clip goes to the bottom and exellent place to drop it at. I slid it just in the lip and kept a finger on it to hold in place poppped on the plug and then pushed wire on install worked perfect the first time. You will need to go to the right hand side of the intake and unhook the throttle body, but you will have to get your airbox out of the way first to reach the four bolts at the throat of it. Then there is a sneaky little bolt on the back that will put you in the clear. Working towards you there are another bracket holding some wiring on so undo that and a bracket along the front of the intake you will take loose. Now just look at the intake there is a nut at each end in the front and three short bolts between them then there is two long bolts heads just sitting there on top. after removing these I think there was four bolts in the rear of the intake once these are removed you can see everything and have plenty of room to work top side. Sounds bad, but really was not. I also would take my bolts where ever possible once the brack was removed and put them back in their hole so I did not have to remember which ones went where since I knocked back several alcoholic beverages during teardown and reinstall. Now to the guy who said do it from underneath he either made a mistake on the vehicle or has a crack problem.
Is there a previous post on how to change spark plugs on a 2004 Kia Sedona? If not, is it a hard job and does any one have instructions?
Thanks
I think Carny2000's post was in many ways good and deep. But one small glaring fact jumped out at me. I am not sure what the Euro Carnivals have in them. But here in the USA the Sedona he asked about in 2004 trim had a 3.5L V6. IF this is a reprint/cut and paste of something, then it is wrong eng. As a 2000 2.5L V6 is wierd as he posted it. And almost nothing would be the same from a 2.5L V6 if there was one to a 3.5L V6 he has I think. Or it might be that Carny2000 rewrote it and a 2.5 typo was created. And the Euro market 2.5L/2.9L eng that is in them we here in the KIA forum most times are told of is 2.5L I4 CRD (TurboDiesel) Sorento and the 2.9L I4 CRD Sedona. I agree thou if it is a 3.5L V6, like the rest of the 2004 KIA line the manifold should come off for easier and less headache plug removal.
Last edited by 04SorentoLX : 06-02-2009 at 04:59 PM.
I just wrote a tech article on the procedure for changing the spark plugs on the Sedona, but I wrote in the forum section my own website.
I've not researched how this site likes outside linking, but what I wrote is a very detailed article with images.
I ended up volunteering (and semi-cussing myself out for it) to work on a good friend's Sedona. I figured since I was having SO much fun with it I might as well share the procedure so as to help others.
I won't link to the article in this post, but anyone interested could surely find it with little effort.
bottom line, the upper intake has to come off. if you arent sure, let a professional do it. there are hidden brackets and bolts that if they arent taken off, could cause the intake to crack then your in trouble.
These spark plug posts are all over the place.
With a lot of reading, and searching one can get a gist of what's required.
For the Carnival 2.5L petrol. KV6 variant.
I attach some extracts from the workshop manual.
The secret not mentioned, is to loosen/remove No.3 engine mounting until engine/oil pan drops down & rests on suspension cross arm.
This will enable contortionists to change plugs from underneath vehicle.
You will need two swivel socket extensions joined together and the standard sparkplug socket. If the plug leads are old, its likely you'll damage them flexing/getting out of the hole to clear the firewall.
Another reason to use Kia genuine parts in this instance, their expensive leads withstand the temperatures & flex longer...
My recommendation is to agree with everybody else & remove the air manifold.
For that, you really should get yourself a workshop manual to learn more about what is going on.
Again, you'll need to drop No.3 engine bracket at front belt side of engine.
This will facilitate removal of the back two retraining bolts holding manifold in place atop firewall side of cylinder head. Removal of the top obstructions ensures you have a clear working area, and less likely to damage items going in/out. More clearance to firewall.
You can also inspect the inside of manifold to see if oil buildup needs cleaning.
(minor oil spray comes in via the vacuum lines going to throttle body).
Spark plugs emerging with oil around upper body, or shock/horror, oil around the socket used, indicates a leaking camshaft gasket at either cover or the carrier sealant joint.(don't panic unless its major). Spark plugs emerging with a wet/oily spark plug electrode gap are an indication of more painful trouble, either with Cylinder head valves or head gasket.
And please, do not overtighten spark plugs into an aluminium block!
__________________
Family man with Kia Carnival 2001
KV6 petrol engine variant.
Rebuilds after years of using as a 4WD substitute...
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changing spark plugs in Kia Sedona
Carnival 2.5L KV6 Spark Plug change
Linear Mode
