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#71 (permalink) Old 11-20-2012, 11:00 PM
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Did you follow the test procedure?

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In order to test these switches, a voltmeter will be necessary. From the inside of the vehicle, if the car will not start in park, put the gearshift in neutral and try again. This bypasses the park position. Keep a foot on the brake when this is done since the car will roll in neutral. If the engine starts in neutral, the switch is bad. If it still fails to start proceed with the diagnosing.

Before jumping to conclusions check that the security alarm is deactivated since this is in the circuit and can cause the same problem.

Disconnect the electrical connector from the neutral safety switch. Have a helper turn the ignition switch to the start position and check for electrical power at the connector to the switch. There should be power on one terminal. Put the gearshift in reverse and check the connector again. Now there should be steady power for the backup lights. If there is power, install the connector and check the terminal from the backside for power coming out. If there is power coming out, the starter is in question. If there is no power, replace the switch.
If this switch is at fault I'm wondering that means that it would not be possible to push the starter relay next to the battery?

First easy step would be to try starting the car in neutral - is yours automatic?

Last edited by gtd2000; 11-20-2012 at 11:03 PM.
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#72 (permalink) Old 11-20-2012, 11:51 PM
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Originally Posted by gtd2000 View Post
Did you follow the test procedure?



If this switch is at fault I'm wondering that means that it would not be possible to push the starter relay next to the battery?

First easy step would be to try starting the car in neutral - is yours automatic?
yes my car is automatic , it not starting in both natural and drive gear position, last day my car wont start I used to unplug and plug with some movement of that connection then the car able to start.

I don't know why my feeling says that this switch is the problem ? also I think that my car have no alarm system because I tried to close the doors by key and then the car starting ? or can you help me how to test my alarm if it available ?

also friend, I think this problem is only of sedona 2006 2007 2008 and entourage 2007 and 2008 which means the 1st generation of this models but the latest models have no issue of not starting our part number is 42700-39050 but the latest models is 42700-39055 so I think the old part number have Manufacturer defect.
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#73 (permalink) Old 11-20-2012, 11:52 PM
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gtd2000 is your GF car 2007 or 2008 ??
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#74 (permalink) Old 11-21-2012, 12:10 PM
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gtd2000 is your GF car 2007 or 2008 ??
It's a model year 2007.
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#75 (permalink) Old 11-21-2012, 12:19 PM
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yes my car is automatic , it not starting in both natural and drive gear position, last day my car wont start I used to unplug and plug with some movement of that connection then the car able to start.

I don't know why my feeling says that this switch is the problem ? also I think that my car have no alarm system because I tried to close the doors by key and then the car starting ? or can you help me how to test my alarm if it available ?

also friend, I think this problem is only of sedona 2006 2007 2008 and entourage 2007 and 2008 which means the 1st generation of this models but the latest models have no issue of not starting our part number is 42700-39050 but the latest models is 42700-39055 so I think the old part number have Manufacturer defect.
I'm not sure about the model years affected by the no start/no crank problem but I thought they all used the same IPS module (what most people believe is the faulty part) - I wouldn't change/repalce the IPS due to it being the same low quality part that may fail in future.

It will be interesting to see if the new 42700-39050/55 part makes a difference in your case.

I would have conducted the voltmeter test first, to confirm that the switch is really faulty.

When will you have this part changed?

Last edited by gtd2000; 11-21-2012 at 12:28 PM.
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#76 (permalink) Old 11-21-2012, 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by gtd2000 View Post
I'm not sure about the model years affected by the no start/no crank problem but I thought they all used the same IPS module (what most people believe is the faulty part) - I wouldn't change/repalce the IPS due to it being the same low quality part that may fail in future.

It will be interesting to see if the new 42700-39050/55 part makes a difference in your case.

I would have conducted the voltmeter test first, to confirm that the switch is really faulty.

When will you have this part changed?
unfortunately, I cant find this part at my local dealer (both KIA and Hyundai dealers) I will order from USA but will take more time to be received

am not familiar with using voltmeter hope you can try instead of me

gtd2000: did you try your idea of wire changing ? also am waiting you

many thanks
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#77 (permalink) Old 11-22-2012, 05:37 PM
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#78 (permalink) Old 11-24-2012, 08:12 PM
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Well I've done the jumper fix today - just building the video as I type this out

Will post link on here as soon as it compliles and uploads to Youtube
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#79 (permalink) Old 11-24-2012, 09:30 PM
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#80 (permalink) Old 11-25-2012, 04:17 AM
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great job man we need the final results after jumping the cables !! is it OK and the start problem will never come again !!!

Big Thanks

Last edited by rational; 11-25-2012 at 04:22 AM.
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