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-   -   cambelt replacement 2`9crdi sedona 2007 (http://www.kia-forums.com/kia-carnival-sedona-2006/126186-cambelt-replacement-2-9crdi-sedona-2007-a.html)

cockney 01-24-2014 06:06 AM

cambelt replacement 2`9crdi sedona 2007
 
Hi has any one got a exploded view of front engine, showing pulleys & belts & procedure ,for replacing cambelt kit .

93fxdl 01-24-2014 02:58 PM

Have just completed this swine of a job, took 3 days for my back to recover!! Don't have any diagrams just took notes as I went, it is not an easy belt to change.
Start by jacking up and removing the right hand front wheel, next remove the engine cover, undertray and the small lower inner arch splash shield. Put a jack under the engine at the belt end, and take the weight of the engine. Working under the arch, remove the air con belt. Working from the top undo the 2 nuts and 2 bolts on the engine mount, lower the engine and remove the mount, next remove 3 bolts from the rubber part of the mount and lift engine back up ( watch for alternator hitting master cylinder ) undo 4 bolts and remove last part of mount from engine. This is when I made a note of the accessorie belt route, the tension is released by rotating lower tensioner clockwise
More to follow, Ttfn Glenn

93fxdl 01-24-2014 03:36 PM

IMPORTANT before removing belt loosen 4 bolts on waterpump pulley!!! Now you can remove the belt covers, start by disconnecting the two plugs at the top and undo the 2 weird plastic nuts that hold loom to to top of cover. Also forgot, disconnect rad hose from thermostat housing and fold it of the way and remove the bracket that supports it. Now undo all the bolts that secure the top cover and remove, now you can see the cam pulleys, there are 2 marks that face each other when the engine is at TDC there's a mark on the bottom pulley and an indicator on the bottom cover which align to set engine position, but first you need to slacken the bolt through the bottom pulley. An impact wrench may do the job, not in my case, one broken 1/2 inch bar later a deep ring spanner and abut 6 flicks of the starter got it shifted. Once slack you use it to turn engine to line up marks again, dot on bottom pulley to tdc mark on belt cover, dots on cam pulleys facing each other in line with line on head, also remove rubber bung over the diesel pump pulley and screw a 6mm bolt through hole in pulley
More to follow Ttfn Glenn

cockney 01-24-2014 03:45 PM

Thanks Glenn look forward to the rest of the job

93fxdl 01-24-2014 04:01 PM

Now is time to remove the bottom pulley, all the bolts holding the bottom cover, the cover comes out downwards, mine was trapped by the accessory belt, idler and tensioner pulleys, so I pinged off the plastic covers and unscrewed the pulleys ( T 40 torx, I think )
Finally you have access to the belt. If you haven't lost the will to live reading this, don't worry, you will, doing the job as this write up dosent include the times the engine has to go up and down or the times you will have to get out from under and then back again or the struggle to get to assorted bolts, and you haven't even got the belt off yet
More to follow, Ttfn Glenn

93fxdl 01-25-2014 04:32 AM

Almost ready to pull the belt off. But first get the piece of paper with the accessory belt layout on it and add the cam belt layout, also take note of the angle of the tensioner indicator. Recheck that camshaft marks align and locating bolt is in the pump pulley. Ok now loosen the tensioner bolt, it will spring back and now you can remove the belt, the exhaust cam on mine jumped counterclockwise 1 tooth. I replaced all the idlers and tensioner. Anyway now its time to fit the new belt. Start from crank to pump then inlet cam then exhaust, I had to rotate the exhaust clockwise 1 tooth with 17 spanner on bolt, once belt fully home, tension it with a 6mm (?) Allen key till the indicator is in original position then tighten mounting bolt
More to follow, Ttfn Glenn

93fxdl 01-25-2014 06:44 AM

Now belt is fitted and tensioned, remove location bolt from pump, refit lower cover and bottom pulley, now recheck timing marks line up then by hand turn the engine over twice and check the timing marks again, or do as I dis and get it almost fully back together and find a cam is one tooth out and have to strip it again. Once you are certain the timing is correct, reasembly is the reverse of disassembly.
Tools used
3/8 socket set
Metric combination spammers
Flat blade screwdriver
21 mm (?) 1/2 drive socket or deep ring spanner for crank bolt
T40 (?) Torx for idler pulleys, also a pair of vice/mole grips since there isn't room to unscrew them fully, even had to shorten the torx driver and turn it with a spanner, ratchet spanner is preferable.
Super glue to keep the rubber gasket on the bottom cover or as I did and add to the surplus collection.
Don't take this as gospel, just a general guide, hopefully flagging up the pitfalls. I have changed a few different cambelts in the past and the Sedona is a real pig to do.once finished you should have a real sence of achievement, provided you haven't done your back in as I did
Ttfn glen

cockney 01-25-2014 01:45 PM

Hi Glenn thanks very much for your instructions ,this is very helpful to me ,& is doable .Thanks for your time & patients ttfn Cockney.

93fxdl 03-15-2014 02:52 PM

How to guide, with pictures
http://pmmonline.co.uk/technical/timing-belt-replacement-kia-sedona-29-crdi
Ttfn Glenn


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