Front wheel bearings (and CV axles) replacement/steps & tips/'02 Kia Sedona 3.5L - Kia Forum
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post #1 of 3 (permalink) Old 02-29-2012, 07:21 AM Thread Starter
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Front wheel bearings (and CV axles) replacement/steps & tips/'02 Kia Sedona 3.5L

The roaring from the driver side has been long over due. Had both front bearings replaced. The procedure seems straight forward yet problems and questions does arrive. I post this in detail for those like myself might like to look at what they are looking at before open the can.

Best is to completely remove the knuckle and let some one else to replace the bearing with a press if you don’t have one. Below is how I did it.

First remove the caliper and strap it out of the way on the coil spring and then remove the break disk. The 2 screws on the disk may be tough; I use an impact screw driver to loose them. Next to remove the axle nut by using a breaker bar to hold the spindle station while breaking it loose with a heavy tool and a 32mm socket as shown below.

Next remove bolts #1, #2, #3, and castle nut #4 shown above. Strike the area with a hammer arrow pointing a few times the steering rod end will come off readily.

With the knuckle turn to an angle, strike the axle end a few time with a hammer cushioning it with a piece of wood. When you see it moves, you can pull it right off the knuckle.

Pull the knuckle off the lower ball joint. Do the other side the same way.

Have the bearings replaced then reinstall everything in reverse fashion.

Make sure the hub seal pack with high temperature grease is install facing the right way as shown in pic below (yellow seal).

The axle nut should be tighten as tight as possible without any pipe or extensions on your tools. The castle nut should be tighten until it is tight and then advance forward to line up the hole for colter pin.

Simple enough? Wrong! not in my case! The CV axle is fused to the spindle of the hub due to heat generated by the bad bearing. So, I pull out the the knuckle along with the axle. You may need to ply on the axle with a tire iron, comes with the car in the jack pack, lightly at the gear box while turning the axle with your hand. It should come right out without struggle.

Get your drain pan ready to catch about a quart of ATF when you pull the axle out. If you see the ATF is dirty, I would go ahead to drain the ATF, about 4 more quarts, because the drain plug (22mm) is there front of you right over a cross member. To reinstall the axle, just push and turning at the same time; it will slip right in.

A friend broke the knuckle try to press the seized axle out for me. I call the savage for the knuckle assembly and A-zone for the axle. Now my expanse on this side went from $35 up to $235. If you are able to cut the axle along the green line in pic above you can save the knuckle, then all you need are a new axle and a spindle, less then $100 new.

For those who just replacing the axles, you may leave the caliper, break disk and bolt #3 along. Replacement procedure is the same as mentioned above.

Last, for those who spilled oil, refill the transmission through the dipstick tube with SPIII ATF or Compatible ATF, if you trust them, such as Valvoline MaxLife, Castrol Multi Vehicle Import and +4 to name a few.

Please feel free to ask question, make correction and add info. Thanks.

Hope this helps,


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Last edited by bruce2; 03-28-2012 at 07:28 AM.
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post #2 of 3 (permalink) Old 08-21-2014, 08:29 AM
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Bruce, I know this is an old post, and maybe you are no longer looking at it, but I was wondering if you used an axle puller while everything was still mounted on the car. My experience with KIA's (Sephia and Sedona) is that the axles never come loose when you take off the axle always have to put an axle puller on them to make them back out of the wheel hub. Right now I am getting ready to replace one of my wheel bearings,and yep...same thing, Axle puller is needed. All the major auto part stores have those available to loan, so no big deal there.

My biggest problem so far has been locating a front wheel bearing puller kit. None of the stores in my area carry,so I ended up having to buy one from Harbor Freight for $80 (with discount). With this tool you supposedly can pull and re-press the bearing without taking the knuckle out of the car. This saves the $50 pressing charge from Pep-boys, and it also eliminates the need for re-doing the front end alignment.
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post #3 of 3 (permalink) Old 08-25-2014, 06:08 AM
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Be wary of an axle puller.
Kia have a shaft retention clip that prevents axle sliding out.
If its deformed, you risk damaging the axle splines as its pulled free

your best bet is always patient tapping and prying.
Jar the circlip like clip just the right way, and whallah out it slides...

Though you can tell via my post that I've alrady worked on one where the shaft metal was softer than that of the clip....

Family man with Kia Carnival 2001
KV6 petrol engine variant.
Rebuilds after years of using as a 4WD substitute...
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