I've had this problem for a while, it's quite slow and black smoking. Decided to remove the vac hose from the egr valve and what a difference it made.
Removed the valve and checked it. The plunger was very stiff in operation, so gave it a clean and refitted. When the vac was re-connected it was back to how it was.
Ordered a new valve from Kia, fitted it, and.... No change.
The egr is still open at idle.
So I'm thinking it must be a solenoid sticking that controls the vacuum (if there is one)
Hi, I found this forum last night, and spent two hours reading to get some ideas, about my 2000 Sedona 2.9TD which was running badly and putting out clouds of black smoke, when the engine was under load.
Today I checked air filter, Intercooler for blockages, hoses around the turbo for splits etc.
Then I found the cause and a cure.
I blanked off with a piece of sheet aluminium, the hose that comes out of the EGR valve and goes into the inlet manifold. She now runs beautifully, loads of power and no smoke.
I appreciate that the 'proper' thing to do was to go down the road of replacing the EGR valve, then if that didnt work look at replacing the solenoid, then look into the ECU to see if it was sending the right signals to the solenoid etc etc. but my way seems to work a treat, and cost me less than a cup of tea.
I hope this helps somebody out there with a smokey Sedona.
My Sedona 2.9TD 2000 also has black smoke and poor acceleration.
I've changed the fuel, oil and air filters plus full oil change, tried redex in the diesel and then fuel injector cleaner, all to no avail.
My last resort is to blank off the egr valve but as a complete novice could someone advise me whereabouts this should be blanked off?
I've located the EGR valve assembly which has two bolted sections, one of which is underneath and I can't get to with a spanner.
The other section (located on the side) has a rigid metal hose attached to it that comes out of the EGR valve assembly and round into the intake manifold (not sure of the air flow direction though??)
Could anyone advise where the EGR should be blanked ie at the valve end or at the intake manifold end as I don't have a clue (please please don't tell me it's the one underneath the valve that needs blanking otherwise it's another trip to the Kia garage ££££
Any diagrams labelled so an idiot can understand them would be extremely appreciated.
Right move. All the EGR system does is introduce dirty hot exhaust gas back into the inlet manifold to reduce emissions at cruising speed. Diesels do not like hot dirty air, they like clean cool air that's why they have an intercooler. I blocked the EGR valve off on my O3 Sedona and cleaned the 100ks worth of black treacley goo out of the inlet manifold. You want to clean the intercooler as well if a high miler and change the oil, oil filter and air filter about every 6000 miles.
For the CRDi version, is the EGR valve sat in the middle of this picture ( just to the left of the open air intake on the air-filter box) : http://tinyurl.com/bs335
If so, are we talking....like two pairs of bolts and the rubber hose on the diaphram ?
Also, is there any special brand of snakeoil to clean the valve and inlet manifold with ?
Just to check it, you could remove the small rubber pipe on the front of the EGR valve.(same effect as the coke can trick). This stops the valve operating.
Hi ebod
If you intend to clean the valve rather than blank it off then I was recommended to use Carb cleaner and a small stiff brush. However due to the location of my EGR valve (at the back of the engine) it was difficult to access so I couldn't do a decent job and subsequently it didn't solve the problem.
On your picture I've added yellow arrows that point to the bolts you need to remove to access the valve chamber. I have marked in red where the blanking plates need to go should you decide to blank it off instead. I also fitted a new gasket just in case.
For the blanking plates I just cut up a Red Bull tin tracing round the gasket as a template. I used several layers as the tin seemed quite flimsy, probably overkill but time will tell how long it lasts! http://tinyurl.com/nfh7vz
Now that i have blanked it off it runs better than ever with more MPG and more power, wish I'd done it sooner!
Good luck with yours!
NB Does anybody know of any drawbacks of performing this type of fix ie MOT emission tests etc?
Hi ebod
If you intend to clean the valve rather than blank it off then I was recommended to use Carb cleaner and a small stiff brush. However due to the location of my EGR valve (at the back of the engine) it was difficult to access so I couldn't do a decent job and subsequently it didn't solve the problem.
On your picture I've added yellow arrows that point to the bolts you need to remove to access the valve chamber. I have marked in red where the blanking plates need to go should you decide to blank it off instead. I also fitted a new gasket just in case.
For the blanking plates I just cut up a Red Bull tin tracing round the gasket as a template. I used several layers as the tin seemed quite flimsy, probably overkill but time will tell how long it lasts! http://tinyurl.com/nfh7vz
Now that i have blanked it off it runs better than ever with more MPG and more power, wish I'd done it sooner!
Good luck with yours!
NB Does anybody know of any drawbacks of performing this type of fix ie MOT emission tests etc?
Cheers Stormin, I'll take a further look this weekend I need to do a check on the airflow meter anyway as I'm now being directed to this as the cause of my engine check light problem on the another open topic.
...took my EGR valve off tonight. Besides a fine layer of dry soot it was as clean as a whistle. No clumps of carbon etc, same in the intake manifold.
My trouble definately looks like its the maf sensor, but I have got some Forte diesel treatment and a new filter so will give the injectors a blast anyway.
Stormin, thanks for the comments. Do you think it's worth disconnecting the vacuum pipe on the EGR round the back ?? and plugging with a ball bearing etc I heard that you need to keep the vac pressure as the same servo is used on the brakes.
Cheers
It might be different with your model (2004) I can only speak from my own experience with my 2000 model. If you can't find any obvious upgrades to your version of the engine then I would just try out the blank off first and see how she runs. Good Luck!
Kia Sedona 52 plate 2.9 CDI
I keep getting engine light coming on when car under load (towing caravan up inclines etc) take foot slightly of accelerator light goes out no problem.
Local garage suggest EGR Valve, have stripped and cleaned,I can get the valve to operate manually by taking both the vacuum pipes off the solonoid and holding together, But obviously cannot see what the valve is doing, if anything when driving. I am wondering whether its the solonoid not working or is it not recieving a signal.
Do I now try and blank off the EGR valve. My EGR Valve has a metal pipe running from it down beside the air filter then round the back of the engine (where the solonoid valve is fitted) Where would you blank it off?.
I am not sure of what state the EGR should be in - open ( by vacuum) when ticking over or open by vacuum under load.
Striker I could do with your assistance with this - I live in Eastwood Leigh on sea.
I have spent a fortune on garages including main dealers who so far have failed dismally.
I've had my Sedona 2005 for just over a year and I'm loving it. However, a few months ago the check engine light started coming on. The ECU reported 3 errors to do with the MAF, EGR and Diesel Injection.
I've replaced the MAF Sensor, but still getting the other two errors. The EGR valve was already blocked off so I'm guessing the error has to relate to the EGR Solenoid. The way I understand it the ECU is expected a certain resistance value on that circuit. However if the solenoid is stuck or malfunctioning it is not going to get the right values. I saw somewhere that you can is
Nasty a resistor in place of the solenoid to fool the ECU into thinking the solenoid is working. Does anyone have any knowledge on this.
Regarding the diesel pump error. I've been told by diesel injection systems experts that this error is likely a knock on effect of the other errors. They say that if there was a problem the car would be jerky and difficult to start and even die mid drive - it's not doing any of those things.
are there any updates on this relating to a 2009 2.9 diesel ?
i fitted a blanking plate and it started throwing a P0101 error
i have an issue with a 2 or 3 second lag and then it kicks me in the back and shoots of like a rocket
i have a brand new Bosch MAF and just serviced with all new filters
just had all 4 injectors reset and tested and 1 needed new nozzle but now all 4 are sorted
i have heard that i need a new IMV or even it could be the DMF or it could be the pedal switch or temp switch or crank sensor etc etc etc and that i am fighting a losing battle
Take out the EGR blanking plate as the system has sensors that can determine if the exhaust gas is actually flowing so putting in a blank causes a code, also you are poisoning the air that belongs to everyone with increased pollutants by disabling the EGR.
Hello guys. I have a 2004,3.5L Sedona that idles roughly. I’ve done a lot of running on It but still idles rough. A mechanic suggested it could be the EGR valve. Can anyone tell me where it located in the car? Will appreciate your quick responses. 🙏🏽