I bought a used 2003 Kia Sedona when I bought it the guy told me it needed a new crank shaft sensor and he had the part. It turns out he had wrong part and I had to buy a new one. After that it ran OK but stalled a few times when driving. I had a friend come over and ran a test and the mass air filter sensor needed to be replaced. So he replaced it and clear all the codes. It ran for a day and started stalling but would restart right away. Next day started to stall more and wouldn't restart for a few minutes. So he ran it again and the codes for cranks shaft sensor, air flow sensor and multiple misfire codes. My friend said it might be the ecm and that's a lot of money to replace. I'm a single disabled mom. I bought the car so I can get to my doctors appt. There is no way I can afford to replace the ecm or buy a new car. Please help I'm hoping my friend is wrong. BTW it won't start at all and yesterday I took the negative part of the battery off to try and reset and ran maybe 5 mins
When you say it does not start does that mean the engine cranks but does not start or is it just dead? I assume it cranks. Can you or your friend run a fuel pressure test on the engine. It sounds like a fuel delivery issue. When you turn the key to ON (don't turn all the way to START), can you hear the fuel pump "prime" (buzz)? It should prime for a few seconds. (Try to have silence around you so you can hear it) If it does not prime, it is likely the fuel pump going out. The pump is under the carpet behind the driver seat. But It could be several other things too (clogged fuel filter, bad throttle body, bad check valves at the pump, clogged fuel injectors etc). But good start is to do a fuel pressure test. If you get more codes, don't delete them. Rather retrieve them and post here.
Yes it cranks and when I just went to check for buzzing it started again with check engine light. I'm afraid to drive it because it keeps stalling. I didn't hear any buzzing but I'm hard of hearing. I'm going to have my step dad check when he gets home
We heard the buzzing. I'm waiting to see if my friend knows the codes. I'm not sure what codes they were but he said it was multiple misfires from the ignition coils and crankshaft sensor and Maf sensor
His response when I asked for codes. Crank sensor,missfire,multiple random missfires. I don't have many options for help. I want to send to mechanic but if it's not worth it I don't want to waste more money I don't have
Please get the codes so we can see if you random misfires through all cylinders or if it is a specific cylinder. Could be as simple as a bad ignition coil. If u have code for a specific cylinder, you can swap the ignition coil to another cylinder. If the misfires switches to that cylinder you know you have a bad coil. Also, have you checked condition of the spark plugs? If fouled, this can also cause these type of problems.
He said 3 out of 6 of the ignition coils came up. But he insist its the ecm and changing the ignition coils would be a waste of money. After he put in can shaft and MAF sensors he cleared out and he said a few days later they were back with a bunch of misfires. Can having bad ignition coils cause all them codes. He won't help me anymore cause he thinks the car is done. But if there is any chance I will take to a mechanic
I agree proper troubleshooting is the way to go. Not sure why your friend thinks the ECU is fried. That would be rare but anything is possible. But based on your descriptions, I tend to think that some of your ignition coils / cables have gone bad but just what I think and it is not proper troubleshooting!) . This happens all the time and luckily not that expensive to fix. But depends if the front 3 spark plugs are giving you the problem or the back 3. The front plugs very easy to fix. With rear ones, inlet plenum and a bunch of other components have to be removed for access so it is increases labor quite a bit. Just to give you an idea, a KIA dealer would charge $200+ to change al six spark plugs (material and labor). This is why it would be good to have the specific codes as it will point you to which specific cylinders are having misfires. Then we"ll know if it is front, rear or a combination thereof.
I know this is easy for me to say since I know how to do it, but I'm hoping you have friend that could help you. Before you take the car to a shop, a friend could do this:
Download the codes. For example, you might see specific misfire codes, such as PO301, P0304 and P0306 (just examples!). If you see these kind of codes, you know (In this example) that you have misfires in cylinders 1, 3 and 6. The last digit in the P030X indicates which cylinder is having the misfire so you could see any combination of P0301 - P0306 codes.
Next, I would expose all spark plugs, which means that the inlet plenum and a bunch of other components have to be removed. Next I would remove the ignition cools from the cylinders that had a code associated with it and swap it with a good one. So in above example , I would take the coils from cylinders 1, 3 and 6 and swap them with 2, 4 and 5. If the codes remain P0301, P0303 and P0306 and no other codes, you know the coils are good and that likely the cables are burnt. If you see the same codes + P0302, P0304 and P0305 you know now that coils are bad and also cables on 1, 3 and 6 are bad too.
If you see a code P0300, it means that you have random misfires in all cylinders. Then it is likely nothing wrong with coils and cables, and something else is causing it (vacuum leak, etc) and shop would have to troubleshoot / scan the car to find the cause.
Before throwing any more parts at it I would ask a competent mechanic to check the battery condition with a hi-rate tester or substitute a know good battery and thoroughly clean the batt terminals and check the cleanliness and tightness of the engine and frame earths, as I think you have a voltage problem in the engine management system.
Before throwing any more parts at it I would ask a competent mechanic to check the battery condition with a hi-rate tester or substitute a know good battery and thoroughly clean the batt terminals and check the cleanliness and tightness of the engine and frame earths, as I think you have a voltage problem in the engine management system.
Thank you. I have had it towed to a mechanic and waiting to hear. I thought he jump pretty quick saying it was main computer. I will keep use posted and again thank you
I had a mechanic look at it and I'm now driving it. My supposedly friend was supposed to changed the crank shaft sensor changed the wrong part. He changed the cam sensor. So mechanic put on the crank shaft sensor. Also front strut was broke he said my tire was ready to come off. He said now I just need a gaskit in and I should pass inspection. Thank you for the hope. I was really scared at first. I put everything I had into this
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