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Brake shudder

3K views 2 replies 3 participants last post by  Classic boy 
#1 ·
Greetings from South Africa.

I have a 2004 Kia Sedona (Carnival shape) diesel 2.9CRDi and have consistent brake shudder problems. Replaced disks and pads and a few thousand kilometers later the shudder returns and gets worse quickly, even after skimming the shudder returns although sooner than with new disks. A friend has the same model with the same problem - any comments/advice?

Thank you.
 
#2 · (Edited)
Hi Radek,
If you have chronic issues with the front brakes, you may have additional issues with the brake system. I'd suggest you get a dial indicator and check for run-out of the disk assembly:
a. Secure and lift the car up, from axle fully up. Put it in neutral.
b. From the underside of the car, locate the dial indicator to be ~15mm from the edge of the disk. Yes, this will be the inside face of the disk.
c. Rotate the wheel by hand and measure for runout, it should measure 0.05mm runout, max. Mark the high spot of the rotor, use a pen market.
d. Remove the wheel, and measure the outside face of the disk. The high spot should be the opposite of the inside test.

If they do not match, Maybe...
a. When you took the wheel off, it released pressure off the disk.
b. Resurface the disk (24mm min thickness), and install new pads.
c. Use a steel brush and clean all joining surfaces off dirt and rust. Brush the wheel inside face too.
d. Remount the wheel and tire. Install the lugnuts in a star sequence pattern, start wit the top lug, do this by hand
e. While the car still up. use a torque wrench and fasten to 79 lb/ft, or 108Nm. This is very important, if you use an impact gun or breaker bar, it may ruin the alignment of the rotor.
f. Check for disk run out one last time. Again to be sure its within tolerance.

If they high spot matches.
a. Look at the mounting of the disk; the two flat head Phillips fasteners, make sure they're not damaged.
b. Check for run out of the hub. It can also be damaged, but unlikely.
c. Look at the disks. If the're too low quality, or they're too thin. They may deform under heavy braking (too much heat).
d. Look at the caliper sliders, make sure they move by hand. If they're hard or stuck, clean and re-lube.
e. Also, be sure the rear drums/shoes are working as expected. If they're loose, all of the braking effort is managed by the front brakes. This will overheat them. I had this issue before, the rotors had a blue hue and the pads had crack marks. I didn't used the parking brake for one year, That's how these self adjust.

MV
 
#3 ·
I have a 2001 2.5L carnival I purchased new and now approaches 300,000km and it has never had problems with shudder but they are heavy vans that do wear out their front discs fairly quickly as their brake pads are very abrasive. Some early generation carnivals had single spot callipers which were problematic, later cars had twin spot callipers which were much better. Check what you have if single spot upgrade the brakes..
Pad quality is very important either use a good brand like bendix or otherwise genuine pads, cheapy brands just overheat the disc and cause it to warp. Check your front wheel bearings for play and lastly and very importantly make sure you loosen and tighten your wheel retaining nuts in a radial pattern to evenly apply the torque force to the disc.
 
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