Kia Forum - Kia Carnival & Sedona Forum

Won't Start - Whirling sound

drainbamage123 — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 17:01:33 GMT

So I tried to start the car and it won't start and gives whirling sound when I crank. Sound like you would get when you spin a motor when you connect it to a battery. Is that a symptom of timing belt breaking? I don't think it's the starter cuz I know the sound that would make. Any advice would be appreciated. Having it towed soon and wondering if I should get it to dealer or a local garage.

2003 Sedona Sometimes will start sometime will not

hkington — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 21:41:21 GMT

Sometimes it will start sometimes it will not. I will go out and try and start it and it will not start, i'll go out a couple hrs later and it will start. I have replaces cam shaft sensor,crank shaft sensor,ig failure sensor. Went out today to start and would not. Went back a few hrs later started fine. I just don't know what to do and I can not afford to take it in to have it looked at.
Any help would be great!!

03 Kia Sedona wont start after I replaced the crankshaft position sensor

armyguy83200 — Wed, 18 Nov 2009 22:33:24 GMT

Driving down the road the van shuddered hard and died. ECM was to the throwing a P0320 code. replaced the Crankshaft position sensor and now it still wont start. checked the timing, fuel pump, fuel filter, all connections, but still nothing. if I hit the key and put the throttle to the floor after about 10 sec's of cranking it will start but I have to feather the throttle between 1/2 and full to keep it running. when it is does start it is a rough running and if I let off the throttle it dies. if you need any more info let me know.

Large oil loss issue...

boblpn — Mon, 16 Nov 2009 17:18:52 GMT

Has anyone experienced a large oil loss (burning) with Sedona?

Have '02 Sedona with 97,000 miles, approaching 100,000 for powertrain warranty issues.

Had oil changed on 10/18 at local service shop. Had starter replaced approx. 3 wks later, and oil was not touching dipstick. Shop stated that they added 4qts to bring up to level.

Was taken on trip from mid-Michigan to northern Kentucky this past weekend and went through almost 2qts oil.

There are NO signs of leakage, NONE! No puddles / stains in driveway. No visible signs of leakage on undercarriage. When up on rack, pan bolts and lip / gasket area are as dry as the day I purchased new with 22 miles on it.

Had a mechanic briefly explain a few things, and basically stated that if there are no leaks, that it has to be burning it. But 4qts in 3 weeks???!!!

Isn't that quite excessive?

Spoke to Kia service. Stated they can do a tear down to inspect, and would be looking for 'sludge.' And if sludge is not an issue, and an internal repair is needed, that the warranty would most-likely cover the $250 teardown for diagnosis. Kia service rep also stated that Kia may want my service records if a warranty issue was in question. But what if I do my own preventative maintenance? Can they hold that against me, just because I don't take it to Kia for oil changes? He stated that if oil was changed every 3-5,000 miles, there will not be any sludge.

I just think 4qts in 3 weeks is quite excessive, especially if there are no visible signs of leaks. And another 2qts in just a weekend trip. Obviously something wrong internally.

Has anyone experienced this with a Kia, or are there any Kia techs that have seen this issue with a Sedona with <100,000 miles? What was outcome to customer? Warranty honored? Repair needed?, etc.

Any input from Kia techs is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Bob

Need help location PCV valve...any Kia mechanics here?

boblpn — Mon, 16 Nov 2009 16:12:08 GMT

I'm desperate to find the location of the PCV valve on my '02 Sedona.

I purchased one from local CarQuest parts store, but am unable to find a matching part on the engine to replace with.

I've also seen TWO different PCV valves when searching the Internet, and they look NOTHING like each other. One is the old L-shaped style you might find in a Chevrolet exiting the top of a valve cover, and the other is a straight piece, threaded on one end with a 1-inch long hex in the middle for turning with an open-end wrench.

The second type, looking at my engine, seems to exit the top rear of the front valve cover on the left side, connected to a rubber hose, and leads down to between the heads.

The first, old-style, according to Kia service, is located on the left side of the engine toward the back, which would be the rear valve cover / head area on the left side of the engine. I've looked with light, and for my life, cannont see a match to what the part store sold me.

If anyone has a picture of a '02 Kia Sedona factory PCV valve, and could email to me, I would be grateful. Also, if you could tell where it is located, or provide picture of same, you would be considered a saviour in my book.

Thanks in advance for anyone who can help.

Kindly,

Bob

Handbrake issue

spawnyuk — Mon, 16 Nov 2009 12:59:15 GMT

Hi guys..... im baffled to hell, i replace my rear brake shoes on both sides the other day, and now i have now handbrake... none at all.......

Kia Sedona 02 2.9TD

The Square nut adjuster is as tight as it will go, as in maximum adjustment.

The small hex nut on the Handbrake Lever itself is making no difference at all....

the self adjuster in the brake assembly itself will not go out anymore, or i wont be able to get the drum back on, when i then tighten cable back up i still have no handbrake, i have even had the shoes so far out on the drum that i can hear a rubbing from the shoes when i spin the wheel.... please help as i am at my wits end.... does anyone have any advice on this procedure, pictures would be fantastic or a picture of the drum internal assembly to make sure I have got the springs right......

Please Please Please.

03 sedona grinding noise

bubbarandi1 — Sun, 15 Nov 2009 21:47:54 GMT

My 03 sedona makes a grinding noise when it is started and put in gear.. It sounds like it is coming from the front upper motor mount .Is this possible? It happens when the car is cold and put in any gear but goes away after the car warms up . All belts and pullys sound ok including timing belt.
Any ideas would be helpful .

Thanks
Bubbarandi

Ignition coil

Babalas — Sat, 14 Nov 2009 05:52:59 GMT

I sorted out the coolant leak. Seems the Thermostat housing and water pipe to water pump are made of plastic. Plastic pipe broke(looks age related). Changed thermo and pipe.
I did not pay enough attention to the order in which the spark plug leads were on the coil packs. I think I may have put them back in the incorrect order!. The car starts Ok, but feels a little off(rough idle).
Can someone please post a pic sketch of the order of ignition leads from coils to plugs?
Thanks

Attached Images

coils.jpg (198.1 KB)

05 sedona headlight issue

cisc — Tue, 10 Nov 2009 15:01:13 GMT

I have searched and could not find this specific issue, I apologize if I missed it.

I have an 05 sedona, recently the right side low beam went out..
If i hit the headlight it comes back on.

I am hoping this is a bulb issue and not an electrical problem..
and experience on this issue or advice how to go about it?
thanks!

2.9 SX TDI Automatic gearbox flush

MichaelS — Sun, 08 Nov 2009 09:32:07 GMT

Well, the old girl has passed her MOT which means I'll be keeping her and thought I'd treat her to new gearbox oil, at 105k miles it's about time.

I've read through the forum and (correct me if I'm wrong) understand that you have to drain the oil and refill several times because most of the oil is held in the torque converter. The box holds approx 6 to 7 litres and you can only change 2 litres at a time, which means you're mixing old oil with new.

Call me old fashioned but I'd rather change the oil not dilute it!!!!

I was thinking of buying one of those cheap garden sprayers and filling it with SP-III and pumping it through the system. This would be done by disconnecting one of the oil lines and connecting the hose from the pump to one end and catching the waste from the other.

I'm not familiar with auto boxes and have no idea if this will work, so your help would be appreciated. I've found that Euro Car parts do SP-III oil at �6 litre and my fluid is a gold colour and not red, is SP-III red?

My questions are:
Does this sound like a good idea.
What would be the easiest oil line to break into and where is it.
Which end would I connect the pump and which end would be waste.
Should I do it with the engine running or off.
I would need to cycle through the gears to clear the solenoids etc, would this need to be done with engine running or off.
Is there a risk of blowing seals.

Many thanks in advance.

Timing Balance Shaft -sedona 2.9 Diesel

sms — Sat, 07 Nov 2009 09:22:31 GMT

Please Can I Have Advice - How To Set Up Timing On The Balance Shaft Of My Sedona 2.9 Diesel, Having Just Fitted A New Oil Pump After Chain Failure.
Urgent Replies Would Be Appreciated As Need To Get Car Back Together.

Kia Carnival shakes when under accelleration

Belly — Fri, 06 Nov 2009 05:57:16 GMT

HI all,
Bought a 05 carnival about 12 months ago and all has been well up until the last couple weeks. The car shakes when accelerating but once u take your foot off it stops. Now i have done wheel alignments and balancing. The car has been at the mechanics and been inspected and looked over and under thoroughly. The only issue the mechanic found was that teh "O" rings that sit in with teh injectors where put in wrong at some stage and they had fallen apart. Fixed and still the problem there. Anyone have any ideas as we are at a loss.
The mechanic suggested taht it might be the auto transmission.
I was wondering if it could be the computer in them, hey the do have one dont they.
Any help much appreciated.

few worrying issues, please advise

craigybaby — Fri, 30 Oct 2009 11:19:15 GMT

Hi to everyone, I have a 2006 crdi sedona (old model uk). Firstly the car is due for test and after checking for any faults myself I have found a lot of play doing side to side on the o/s front wheel, looks to be the bottom ball joint. It looks a fairly simple job if anyone has any tips I would be gratefull. The one slight worry I do have is with the car been so heavy my little trolly jack/axle stands might break during the tugging and pulling. Im thinking of letting a garage do it for the ease of it but to save on cash I would rather do the job. Also advice on how difficult the timing belt change would be, Im on 48000 now but refuse to pay a garage for something I am quite cabable of doing myelf providing no specialist tools are required.
Now my other problem is bothering lots, first gear is starying to become very notchy so Im wondering if there are any gearbox issues with this model? There is a fault somewere on the clutch two, when gearing down to third approching a roundabout etc releasing the clutch makes the most violent juddering ive ever experinsed no matter how hard Ive tried I cant do a smooth down shift, going up the box isnt two bad at all. I dont think its the clutch itself because the biting point is not bad and selecting gears is ok, Im thinking either a worn mounting or something but cant find much play when checking the juddering will eventually wear the mountings out for sure. Sorry this is so long thought I would get everything off my chest ha ha. Any advice or experinces by other sedona users would be gratefully recieved. Thank you

Loss of Power to the accelerator

cummo — Thu, 29 Oct 2009 21:40:22 GMT

I need help please!!!!!!!!!!!!. The power seems to go from the Accelerator for no reason. The problem seems to come and go and never reappers when it is at the garage. The only solution that they can come up with is the fuel pump but I donnt want to go to the expense if it not going to solve the problem.

2,9TDi Automatic nightmare!

Flim1980 — Thu, 29 Oct 2009 18:49:09 GMT

HELP!!! please!

Lat week my 2001 Carnival (2,9Tdi LS automatic) broke down on the way back from work. I was turning left in aprox 30kph and was to accelrate to 50kph. Instead it just deaccelrated to 0kph!! Felt like the "hold" brake, but much stronger. No strange noises it just braked. The car was stuck in the middle of the road, and didn't want to move. I shifted into neutral and jumped out to puch the car to the side of the road, but it wouldn't move. I then turned the ignition of and then it was free to move. I started it again, it feel like it going into gear, but will not move forward or in reverse. I then tried to disconnect, the battey for a while but still the same!!! I called a friend witch works in a garage, he came with a diagnostics reader. It showed "NO FAULT CODES" When we tried to move the gear shifter out of "PARK" it showed the actual gear in aprox 1 second and then forth gear, even in reverse???? is it posible for the transmission to slip into two gears?? i tried to raise one wheel og the ground with a jack, in neutral the wheel turns free one way but not the other, it feels like there is a mechanical resistanse (cluncking sound when it stops) I then raised the other side the wheels turning both ways and the oppsiste wheel contra rotating.

Phoned KIA in Norway they just recomended me to replace the transmission, in Norway costing 5000�, 1000� more than the value of the car(in Norway)
Can't find any used ones either

:confused: Anyone had this feeling?

PS! Where is the electonic unit controlling the transmission located on the car?