05 Kia Rio shifter solenoid replacement P0750 Shift Solenoid "A" Malfunction - Kia Forum
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#1 (permalink) Old 12-24-2010, 05:03 PM
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Default 05 Kia Rio shifter solenoid replacement P0750 Shift Solenoid "A" Malfunction

First off, I don't own a Kia and ever plan to.

I have registered to help all of you 2005 Kio Rio owners out. Basically my friend asked me to help her change her automatic transmission shift solenoid. Pain in the @$$ if you are going into this job blind with no internet (google) searches to help you with a schematic or parts illustrated breakdown. Now let me start off by saying that I'm mechanically inclined with tons of experience working on my passion of old air cooled VWs. I am also a C-17 Globemaster III crew chief with 15 years Air Force aircraft maintenance experience. So now that I have established my credibility, I am going to help you out on how to remove and replace the automatic transmission shift solenoid... little booger! Along with some pix to guide you a bit.

Now, firstly... (I will assume that you are mechanically inclined if you are going to jump into this job, know that SAFETY is very important, and you have common sense)

-Set E brake

-Jack up front of car onto jack stands... safely

-locate transmission pan, right inboard of left front tire (driver’s/pilots side)

-locate transmission pan drain plug, just aft of pan

-remove drain plug and drain tranny fluid into bucket/pan (do not reuse fluid, buy some cheapo!)

-after your tranny is drained, reinstall drain plug (good’n tight), remove bolts off pan, and remove the pan

- pan will have fluid, so be careful and don’t get into your eyes… the stuff burns

- While you’re in there, replace your tranny filter and have a new gasket to seal up the pan on installation along with forma gasket, which is available at your local auto parts store

-you’re going to have remove the bolts on the bottom of your shifter control module, it’s the square looking thing with a bunch of brass colored bolts labeled “A”, “C”, & “6” and it’s about an inch and half thick.

-once it’s lowered you can unscrew the bolt that holds the solenoid and unplug the lead and install your new solenoid… plug the new one in (there should be a black wire on it) and install the bolt and tighten with low torque, don’t muscle “F” it



-once you are going to install that control module, insure that the shifter pin is in between the two metal circle looking things on the shifter guide or you won’t be able to go into reverse other than drive forward and not reach above 2K RPM… trust me, I know from experience



-Once you have insured that the shifter pin is in the “key way” slot between the two metal circles, you can tighten down your bolts down on the module and put everything back together.

-install your new filter



-After you have tightened all the bolts down, it’s a good idea to have a second set of eyes to verify that you have not left any bolts loose, foreign objects, or tools in the that area.
-Now you can put your new gasket seal on your pan with forma gasket and install the pan back on with all your bolts good’n tight with a double check of your work

-Now fill service your tranny fluid right into where you check your dipstick, you’ll need a long funnel and it takes 4 quarts

-jack and remove your jack stands, then lower car

Start her up and go for a test run. It should run just fine. Check your tranny fluid a few days after to insure you are not losing any fluid, if you are, your seal is probably not sealing correctly or your bolts weren’t tight enough. My word of advice, if you have owned the car and it had this problem, I highly recommend that when you drive your little Rio, every time you are going to shift from park to any other gear, that you come to a complete stop and NOT shift while rolling or slam the shifter. If you do this, that explains having to change the solenoid. My friend confessed to doing this all the time. I advised her to never do it again. I really hope that this little post helps you out with this or any other tranny solenoid that’s in there. I wish that I would have had a tool like this to aide me. The good thing with old VWs that they have been around many years and there are tons of people with tons of experience willing to lend you a virtual hand. I only hope that Kia takes the same road. If you’re interested in a “real” vehicle, go check out thesamba.com
Good luck and happy tooling!
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#2 (permalink) Old 02-13-2011, 09:20 PM
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Default Need Clarification on

kiariobiatch:

Today I had to do this SAME job on my '97 Mazda Protege. The instructions, photos and warnings by YOU are the BEST I have ever read after months of researching this on the internet. Nobody has done us a favor as you have on successfully giving the answers on doing this properly. However, I came across yours AFTER I completed the job and lo and behold, I have the issue you warn us about with NO REVERSE and only forward.

You mentioned in your instructions what I pasted below:

"once you are going to install that control module, insure that the shifter pin is in between the two metal circle looking things on the shifter guide or you won’t be able to go into reverse other than drive forward and not reach above 2K RPM… trust me, I know from experience"

I have looked over your photos and words and know exactly what this plunger is because it slides out if you tip the valve body or "control module".
I never knew what the pin was till now. Still, I have to re-do the job and would like you to "please, please" offer me more help on your suggestion of "insuring that the shifter pin is in between the two metal circle looking things on the shifter guide". Honestly, I don't know what this means and am really trying to understand. Can you post and update or email me with your answer asap?
I wish I had a way to communicate w/you if I need to again. This is the 2nd time I've done this! First time because the solenoids ordered were NOT for my car. This time, all good parts, just no shifting. Tranny oil and dropping pan are NOT fun. I'm praying that you'll help and the 3rd time will be a charm. Thanks!
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#3 (permalink) Old 02-13-2011, 09:45 PM
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Default P.S Addition to Shifter Pin "Key Way" Slot request

One other thing I forgot to mention.

Once I finished the job on the Mazda Protege, the car only went in a forward motion. No reverse, no neutral, and no gear 1 located at the bottom of the shift stages. In fact, I couldn't even get the shifter to shift into this gear because it was like there was a cable and it wasn't long enough.
None of the gears tested were with the car moving.

Later, after a few hours I drove the car again. It shifted properly from first gear to second. Once at 2500 rpms or about 25 mph in second gear, the transmission just let the gear go causing the car to go in a neutral state which made the rpms go up but not the car. I released my foot from the gas pedal. Once the car slowed down on it's own, the transmission jerked a little like it was downshifting on it's own. Nothing harsh, just felt and sounded like that.

Can properly placing the shifter pin in the Key Way Slot still help my shifting issues? Just wanted to throw out more info on what happened after I wrote the first post.
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