Timing Belt Replacement Instructions ( Finally! ) - Kia Forum
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 42 (permalink) Old 06-03-2005, 11:45 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
RaleTheBlade's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 209
Drives: 1998 Kia Sportage
Gallery: 0
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)

Send a message via Yahoo to RaleTheBlade
Thread Starter (Thread Starter)
Lightbulb

On 98 to 2002 Kia Sportage models ( all equipped with the DOHC 16V 2.0 liter 4 cylinder motor ) these are the instructions for the timing belt replacement.

1. Take all frontal pieces off, inculding fan, fan pully bracket, all belts ( A/C, power steering, and alternator ), thermostat housing and and hoses, fan shroud, then crank pully ( 6 - 10MM bolts around a large 21MM center bolt, dont worry about the center bolt, the pully will come off after removing the 6 outer bolts ) then the belt covers, both top and bottom.

2. Once you have access to the belt and with the crank pully removed you will see a small woodruff key on the nub shaft that protrudes from the crank cog. Align that to a 12 o' clock position. This key is what fits in the notch on the crank pully, ignore the small square marking on one of the cog teeth, it is useless.

3. After aligning the woodruff key to the 12 o' clock position make sure your intake came ( left side cam ) is aligned properly, you will know this when you see the "I" on the cog in the twelve o' clock position and aligned with a small marking or "dent" that sits immediately above the cog on the belt backing plate. If it is not aligned there turn the crank another 180 degrees and it should be.

4. Check your exhaust cam the same way as step 3.

5. Now with everything aligned loosen the tensioner nut and pry it to the left with a small crowbar or long screw driver or something elongated. When the tensioner pully is pushed as far as it will go to the left, tighten the nut. This will make it much easier to get the belt off and on.

5. Take the belt off, you may have to work it off with a screw driver or it may simply come off by hand if it is worn well enough. Dont be alarmed if your cams move or snap out of position, it is not a big deal as long as you make sure the crank cog stays put and the engine isnt turned over.

6. Now comes the slightly tougher part, if you got lucky your cams will not have moved, if not then you will have to fiddle around with their alignment and have someone hold them aligned with two 17MM wrenches or something while you reinstall the belt.

7. After installing the belt make sure your alignment marks are set, the "I" on the intake ( left cam ) at 12 o' clock and facing the small dent on the timing cover backing plate and the "E" on the exhaust ( right cam ) aligned the same way as well and your crank cog marking ( woodruff key ) aligned to 12 o' clock and facing the small notch on the front of the block immediately behind the crank cog.
There is also, most times, a small plate on the back of the crank cog that has a beveled notch in it and should be aligned with the woodruff pin, the two parts ( cog and plate ) are one part and move together so if you align the woodruff key at 12 o' clock, the notch should be aligned as well. Now might be a good time to disconnect your battery to allow the cam sensor to reset, it may not be necessary but its better safe than sorry.

8. With all the cogs aligned loosen the tensioner bolt and let it slide back to put tension on the new belt, you may wish to place a small pry bar behind the tensioner to move it to the right a bit and make sure it has tightened the belt securely. Once the tensioner has been moved and the belt securely tight, tighten the bolt once again to hold the tensioner.

9. Turn the engine over a few times using a ratchet and 21 MM socket on the end of the crank cog, making sure to stop the crank after every second revolution and when the woodruff key is aligned at the twelve o' clock position. Then check your markings, making sure they are still aligned, if not, refer back to step 6.

10. After you have made absolutely sure everything is aligned properly, turn the crank until the "E" on the exhaust cam ( right cam ) is aligned at the 12 o' clock position and aligned with the small dent on the belt backing plate. Then turn the engine clockwise until the "S" on the exhaust cog is facing that same dent on the backing plate.

11. Now you may plug all of your water passages and hoses, reconnect your battery, and though it is not advised but sometimes necessary, start the engine. Do not let it run long however, just long enough to make sure everything is running smoothly. If all is well, shut the engine down and make sure the belt is on the pulleys securely and that everything is still aligned as said in step 9, if not, refer back to step 6.

12. Now that everything is running well you may reverse the procedure and put everything back together. After reinstalling everything and starting the engine you may notice a tapping under the valve cover, do not be alarmed however, that is just lifter bleed down from the cams being turned over with no oil pressure. Simply drive the vehicle a few miles and it will eventually go away.

I hope this relieves the pressure on some of you that are trying to find the right way to do this, I have done it this way and I know it works, plus i have the schematics. If you have any questions feel free to post on this topic and ask away, I should be able to answer everything you need.

Im gonna bounce back, and when I do, I swear Im gonna buy you a diamond so big itll make you puke
RaleTheBlade is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 42 (permalink) Old 06-06-2005, 05:35 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 349
Gallery: 0
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)

Default

I would not perform step 11 and if everything is properly aligned it is not necessary anyway. Simply perform step 9 with manual rotation of the engine. This is all the shop manual recommends.
Axe Man is offline  
post #3 of 42 (permalink) Old 09-14-2005, 12:31 AM
Newbie
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 1
Gallery: 0
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)

Default

Hi , could you post the schematics. I have 2001 sportage we are trying to replace
the timing belt on . Thanks for the help !
frogseeker is offline  
post #4 of 42 (permalink) Old 11-24-2005, 12:03 PM
Newbie
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 1
Gallery: 0
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)

Default

We have a 2001 Sportage with 67K. We bought it almost new; but because it wasn't brand new, the warranty was for only 60K. We took it to the dealer for a final check just before the warranty ran out. They mentioned that the timing belt should be routinely replaced at 60K due to possible failure. Is this something that should be done even if there are no apparent problems at the time?
Steve Klusmeyer is offline  
post #5 of 42 (permalink) Old 12-03-2005, 08:21 PM
Newbie
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 5
Gallery: 0
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)

Default

Is it posssible for the belt to jump like 5 teeth without showing tears or missing teeth both my I and E are at about 130 off from 1200 when my crank keyway and key are at 1200.Does this mean the belt may have jumped on the crank cog?The belt did not appear to be in bad shape and when i loosened the tensioner the belt did not fall off but I think I would have been able to peel it off by hand.I thought it might be a TPS sensor since I,m getting fuel coming out of my filter.It does pop and sputter a little when you try to start it but nothing really drastic. It will eventually run once you get it cranked up good with the starter or some starting fluid but it eventually quits or quits when you attempt to rev it up.I was originally conviced it was the belt but my brother in law talked me out of it and I put it back together. He did'nt think with the condition of the belt and the fact he does'nt buy that the I and E are the right marks.He said the marks are usually a small mach dot or hole on the side of the cog teeth. We were also wondering if the dimples or bumps on thefront of the timing cover backing plate that are at 1200 are the right marks ,or are the I and E that are stamped dents on the same plate but are behing the cogs but can only be seen by looking through the nickle size holes in the cam cogs are the right marks these are at about 130 and 1030 respectively.I keep reading about people that set everything at 1200 crank and cam I and E marks also at 1200 and when they go into the shop they are told their timing was way off.This is another reason we thought maybe it was'nt out of time.There are also 2 white paint or grease pensil marks one on each cam cog I thik at least one was on or very near the S but Idon't think the other one was.I don't want to take it back apart if maybe it is'nt the belt ,but it does have over 98000 on it.I was seriosly considering reolacing it and the water pump anyway even if it was'nt the problem just because of the miles on them and the 60000 usuall life of the belt ,but my uncertainty of the correct maks to use and my haste to get it back together made me not do it Very Confused
taxistud is offline  
post #6 of 42 (permalink) Old 12-20-2005, 10:16 AM
Newbie
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 3
Gallery: 0
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)

Default

RaleTheBlade, thanks for your instructions for the removal and replacement of the timing belt for the Kia Sportage. I recently replaced the timing belt in my 2Dr Sportage. The instructions were great.

One suggestion, in your discription of the postion of various items, i.e. intake or exhaust cams I would suggest you provide reference points. In your instructions you indicated "left" or "right" side. I feel the instructions would be more complete if a reference point was provided. I.e. "facing engine", etc. Just a suggestion as not all mfgs use the safe reference point in their instructions.

A big thanks to you for taking the time to put the instructions to pen.

Regards,

mike
Sport2Dr is offline  
post #7 of 42 (permalink) Old 02-23-2006, 02:22 PM
Newbie
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 1
Gallery: 0
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)

Default

What would the difference be on a 1996?
joey22 is offline  
post #8 of 42 (permalink) Old 05-17-2006, 12:49 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 40
Gallery: 0
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)

Default

thanks for the directions....we replaced ours over the weekend.
shelly1snj is offline  
post #9 of 42 (permalink) Old 05-17-2006, 10:56 PM
Newbie
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 5
Gallery: 0
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)

Post

what about the 2000 kia sephia timingbelt installation and the o2 sensor can anyone give me some imfo on it
candoo is offline  
post #10 of 42 (permalink) Old 06-05-2006, 01:04 PM
Newbie
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 1
Gallery: 0
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)

Default

I have a 2002 Kia Sportage. I was just driving down the road and without any warning or knock or ping the engine just shut down. It was like pulling the plug on a sweeper, it just quit. I tried to start it and it sounds like it may be turning over just a little faster than normal. This made me think of the timing belt. It will not attempt to start it just turns over. I have 71000 miles on it. Does anyone out there believe that the problem lies anywhere else besides the belt? If the Replacement directions found on this forum are as easy as it sounds I will dig into it this weekend. I mean what do I have to lose? One question about those directions are the left and right cam. Is this facing the engine or sitting in the vehicle? Do I need any special tools? Thanks in advance. - Jeff
JeffC is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  Kia Forum > Technical > Do it Yourself

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Kia Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
User Tag List
DavesSpectra

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On