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A/C Compressor Replace '07 Spectra

15K views 15 replies 3 participants last post by  rev_daddy_sp 
#1 ·
I am replacing the A/C compressor on my 2007 Spectra EX.

Got the new (actually refurbished) compressor; looks real good, clean, turns very smoothly - went to drain out the test oil (per instructions on the box) and nothing came out - definitely does not feel dry, but there is no liquid coming out when I turn it upside down and turn the shaft. Perhaps it was drained at the factory before shipping? Maybe leaked out in storage? but the box and liner were very dry (was shrink wrapped in plastic).

I did also replace the condenser unit, as the dryer is integral to the condenser, and because the old compressor locked up so I thought it was a good precaution (new condensor was only $50). I am also flushing the rest of the system (with A/C flush) to ensure removal of any debris from the broken compressor.

So how much oil (PAG-46) do I add to the compressor before sealing up?

And how much oil should be added to the condenser?
 
#2 · (Edited)
I just did an 06 Hyundai Tiburo.. The compressor was bad... The replacement had little PAG46...
I added 3~4oz in the compressor... Pumped a vacuum and added the R134A....
Runs great...
Here is the info you were looking for....
Kia Refrigerant and oil capacity charts || TechChoice Parts
This is for 2004 and earlier but they didn't change that much.
so about another 3oz should do it...
Dave
 
#3 ·
#4 ·
Thanks, DavesSpectra. I also had stumbled upon some additional reference data that is consistent with what you said. I think I got a handle on it.

Just for fun, I disassembled the old broken compressor, just to see what broke. Something broke on the crankshaft side that caused a deformation at the bottom of two of the cylinders, which caused those two pistons to sieze up, which then prevented the crankshaft from turning. At least to the naked eye, there was no debris on the refridgerant side of the cylinders/pistons. After seeing the insides, it's kinda neat to see the way that variable capacity compressor works.
 
#5 ·
I also got the "need" to see what makes things "tick'
You might want to blow out the lines up to the expansion valve and also to the condenser... Just a tiny speck in the lines can cause headaches...
Hold onto the electric/magnetic clutch from the old one as you "might" need it in the future...

Be sure to "pull a vacuum" on the system... The old R12 systems weren't as critical... The R134A systems can react with any air in the system and create an acid when mixed with R134A...
The AC will run for a while and then start failing... Even buying a set of gauges and a vacuum pump at Harbor Freight and the rebuilt compressor it is still MUCH cheaper than a dealer repair..
Dave
 
#6 ·
Actually, I completely dissassembled the entire system - on this Kia Spectra it isn't much to it - flushed out every component and hose (except the new compressor and condenser) with AC flush solvent and blew fairly clean with compressed air (equipped with moisture separater; hope that keeps enough moisture out) (cleaned out the evaporater while still in car). Put all back together adding a little PAG46 to each part (about 3 oz to compressor, about 1.5 oz to evaporater/hose, a few drops in each hose). The last part to be connected up was the condenser, I was only able to get a little less than 1 oz in it, fluid kept backing out like it was already full or something. So I added about 5.5 oz of oil all total. One chart said system should take 4.5 oz, another said 6.5 oz. Hope this will be close enough.

System is all put back together now, I will be sucking it down and charging this afternoon.

Like you said - I bought all the equipment to do this entire job myself, because I have two more vehicles to do - still, it all paid for itself on this one job (assuming it all works when I get done). I consider myself rather experienced and competent as far as shadetree mechanics go, but I have very little experience with A/C systems. I figure its about time I get that experience, as well,
 
#7 ·
Big Lots has/had R134A for under $7.00 a 12oz can...
Even if you have to retry you will be many dollars ahead of a Dealer repair...
and you will have some more usable tools..
Dave
 
#8 ·
I bought a case of Johnson's R134a 12-oz cans on Amazon for $56 <http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C873Y60>. Works out to < $5/can. Figured since I had several vehicles to do, might as well stock up.

I still have not yet recharged the AC in the Kia. Got kinda busy and caught up with other things. I did vacuum it down for about 45 minutes so it wouldn't just sit there with air in it until I got back to it. (I forgot to buy the belt for the compressor so it seemed less urgent).

To really go all out to keep air out of the system, are there any good tricks for keeping air trapped in the hoses of the gauge set from entering the system when hooking up to charge? I will probably run the vacuum pump on it for a minute or two when I get back to it, but when I switch the yellow hose from the pump to the can it will suck in a tiny bit of air (don't have a valve on the end of my yellow hose). Or is this not enough to be concerned with. I have thought of "burping" the yellow hose at the gauge end after connecting the can......
 
#9 ·
Burping (pushing R134A through the hoses) is the most common method. With everything connected and the gauge valves closed turn on the valve on the can....then loon the yellow hose slightly at the gauges to purge the lines of air then retighten the hose..start car and turn on AC to high... open only the BLUE valve... You do not want to open the red as there is high pressure on that line and that. CAN blow up the R12A can....
Also the valves on the hose ends "open" by turning them clockwise driving the internal pin into the valve... I found out from trying to evacuate the system

Two 12oz cans should be enough (22~24oz)
Dave.
 
#11 ·
Success!!! I got the charge completed and it seems to be working fine. Seems to keep inside comfortable in the 92-degree heat here in Texas. I haven't measured the temp yet, but it feels plenty cool. I ended up putting the whole two cans (24 oz) in - I thought that might have been a bit much, but I was monitoring the cabin temp as I gradually added refridgerant and it kept getting colder as I emptied the second can.
 
#12 · (Edited)
After several months, I don't know if anyone will still see this thread/conversation, but I'd like to inform anyone interested that my "repair" didn't last very long - in fact, it only lasted about two weeks. At first, the cooling performance of the A/C gradually decreased and then the belt would start to squeal a little bit. I was immediately suspicious that the compressor was starting to seize up. The squealing gradually got worse (never seemed to sieze up completely) until I just disconnected the clutch electrical connector to disable the compressor completely. -- I asked a friend who used to work on A/C systems a lot and he suggested that I just got a bad/marginal compressor (I had gotten it very cheap: about $70 for an alleged refurbished unit off of Amazon). Still, I continue to be plagued with thoughts of "What did I do wrong?"

The weather had cooled enough that I just left it until this week. Now I am doing the whole thing over again.

The way I am currently approaching the 'do-over' :: I bought a brand new compressor (has a warranty, but probably not valid since I'm doing a DIY). I am only replacing the dessicant bag in the condensor/dryer (since it is new, already replaced). I am using PAG 46 double end cap ref oil instead of the cheap stuff I used before. I built a valve manifold on my vacuum pump so I can hook up everything while evacuating so I don't have to transition from pump to refrigerant can. I'll try to be more meticulous with vacuuming and injecting oil - this time, vacuum first, then inject oil (read where vacuuming can remove some oil from system).

The data I have says a 2007 Kia Spectra should take 4.5 oz of oil and 18 oz of refrigerant.

Hopefully in a few days, I'll have something good to report....
 
#13 ·
Sorry it's down again after all the work.
Haven't read all the posts, but when a compressor goes south, debris can remain in the system and the system needs to be flushed to ensure compressor longevity.
Normally one replaces amount of oil in compressor with like amount that would be drained from removed compressor, or the amount as the table indicates.

Summer's coming so good luck this time around.
 
#14 ·
HHHmmmm, ran across something I didn't expect. Just like before, I disassembled everything to flush/clean everything very well. All the junk that blew/flushed out of the lines and such was very dark in color, almost black. Never seen it like that before, was always kinda greenish in color and a bit gummy from being mixed with refrigerant. This was very watery.

OBTW, the compressor was not siezed up, in fact it rotated fairly freely. Maybe because I took it out of service before a total freeze up and its been sitting for 7 months. ???

Also, almost no oil was able to be drained out of the old compressor. either from suction and discharge ports and crankcase drain plug. Not sure what this means.

Now I could use some advice - this compressor has three places where oil can be drained or added: suction port, discharge port, and crankcase plug. I drained about 140cc of oil from the crankcase plug of the NEW compressor and nothing from the suction or discharge ports. When I add the new oil back into the new compressor, where should it go? The instructions that came with the new comp say nothing about adding oil into the crankcase (specifically) but says to add about half of the total oil charge to the new compressor without saying where, assuming this to the suction port. ???
 
#15 ·
Well, success again! At least, for now. I got it all done, and it seems to be cooling better than ever. But time will tell. Let's see if it lasts longer than two weeks.

Anyway, I got worried because I read a few articles about the "Black Death", where the oil/refrigerant gets all black and sludgey. I didn't have any sludge that was obvious, but the oil and refrigerant that I flushed out was very dark and black/charcoal looking. I flushed everything out a bit more thoroughly, soaked the expansion valve for quite a while, and replaced the condensor, again.

I am concerned that my vacuum pump may not be pulling enough vacuum and that plus a handful of other things may have led to very contaminated refrigerant/oil. I have an FJC single-stage pump and I do not have a micron gauge - I ran the vacuum pump for about two hours before charging the system this time.

Well, we'll see if it holds up.
 
#16 ·
Well, in case anyone is interested, the A/C has been and continues to be working fine (now at end of June, so going on 2 months). I am pleased - except I managed to lose the 2 service port caps; oh well, maybe $5 to replace. Actually, it is fairly cold - but still no match for the 100-deg summer here in TX with no tinting on the windows.
 
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