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That's one thing I don't have data for, but have seen many claims on. I know it can confuse the ECU, which will make it run a little lean (explaining reduced dyno performance), but failing MAF is bad.
Cotton filters have their place. They work great on small motors that don't move fast and aren't complex or valuable (go-karts, landscaping equipment...). A bit more power can matter a lot on a small motor. As well, a mudsoaked paper filter is useless.
Drives: 1960 Corvair, 1975 Morris Mini, 1962 Renault Dauphine, 2012 Grand Cherokee
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I have seen so many problems with K&N type filters I would never use them.
But spend $20 for a restriction gauge and put it in the intake. Then don't open your filter box until it goes red, change the filter and go. You will save your engine and money on filters. Takes 5 minutes to install.
Well gents, I am opening myself up to be made fun of and if you want to call me a turncoat, go for it.
As much as I railed against K&N filters on this car, I broke down and got one anyway. I needed a new filter, was having a heck of a time tracking one down in stores (kept getting told it was a special order) and remembered that I had K&Ns on quite a few other cars of mine with zero problems. So after finding one for less than $40 shipped, I bit and put it in today.
Obviously I am not looking for any performance gains, maybe a tad more engine noise, but basically I will have this car for a while, so it made sense. Plus I still have 3/4 of a K&N recharge kit from previous cars so I won't have to buy one of those.
Drives: 2011 Kia Sportage LX, 2013 Hyundai Sonata GLS
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I would just stick with dry filters since the reusable always has oil on them and tend to get the sensor in either the intake tube and even on the throttle body oily and dirty depending on what kind of engine it is and set up.
__________________ 2011 Kia Sportage LX,
2013 Hyundai Sonata GLS
I would just stick with dry filters since the reusable always has oil on them and tend to get the sensor in either the intake tube and even on the throttle body oily and dirty depending on what kind of engine it is and set up.
Yeah I know. Honestly I am getting annoyed with the lack of aftermarket support for this engine. Ticks me off because it is used in other cars, why they felt the need to make each filter different is beyond me.
The Stillen intakes on my 350Z had K&N cones, the MAF sensors were literally inches from the filters themselves and it never gave me an issue. I never really looked to see where the MAF sensor is on the SX, but there is a lot of tubing under that hood, I think it will be fine.
I will surely post if I run into any issues. And I kept my old paper filter just in case.
As much as I railed against K&N filters on this car, I broke down and got one anyway. I needed a new filter, was having a heck of a time tracking one down in stores (kept getting told it was a special order) and remembered that I had K&Ns on quite a few other cars of mine with zero problems.
I don't mind special ordering, since I'll get exactly what I want for a low price. I do have a car with very odd filters that are getting difficult even to special order, so I entirely understand the K&N option there. When the filter gets dirty, there's no searching for a new one. By the time the last store won't special-order my oddball filter, if I can't 3D print a new one, I'll get a cotton filter to keep the birds and large spiders out ;-)
A cotton filter mostly means more crud gets through. So you change the oil more often, and expect an unremarkable engine lifespan. It isn't a big deal. Cotton filters are usually just a bad choice because they don't work well. I haven't had the MAF problem, but if I did, I'd replace the MAF sensor hopefully before misfiring/detonation.
I don't foresee a MAF issue and I already change the oil every 3,000 miles (or as needed) anyway. I had a K&N on just about every car I ever owned, never an issue. In fact, my hand-me-down 91 Dodge Caravan from my dad had a K&N in it for years, it had 181,000 miles on the clock and the only thing to ever be changed was a CV joint, the thing ran like a clock.
Once I find the MAF sensor, I will ensure I clean it, with the MAF sensor cleaner I have (basically alcohol), every time I change the oil, just in case.
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Mods: SX dual exhaust, 4,750K low, high and fogs, LEDs (license, interior lights, cupholders); Badges, Sport Pedals, Husky liners/cargo tray, Rear Mudflaps, Cupholder LEDs, Chrome headlight, sills, pillars, Sorento wheels; Euro side steps, Fiamm horns, Wheelskin.
2011 Kia Sportage LX,
Linear Mode
