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I own a 2012 Sportage EX and will be upgrading the headlights to HID (not sure why kia isn't on this.... It's not 1994 anymore) and I have a few questions.
1. I want to keep it looking as OEM as possible without getting too aftermarket. What Kelvin should I go with? What Kelvin is in the 2012 Optima SX? I'm thinking that would probably be ideal
2. Do I upgrade the fogs and high beams as well?
3. I am paying a company to install due to their warranty. Anything I should know or keep in mind when I make the appointment?
I own a 2012 Sportage EX and will be upgrading the headlights to HID (not sure why kia isn't on this.... It's not 1994 anymore) and I have a few questions.
1. I want to keep it looking as OEM as possible without getting too aftermarket. What Kelvin should I go with? What Kelvin is in the 2012 Optima SX? I'm thinking that would probably be ideal
2. Do I upgrade the fogs and high beams as well?
3. I am paying a company to install due to their warranty. Anything I should know or keep in mind when I make the appointment?
1.4500k will be closest to white.
5200 is the slightest tinge of blue at certain angles, reminds me of an audi/bmw HIDs. anything higher gets blue/purple. I installed 5200k and love them. anything lower than 4500k gets yellow.
2. fogs run on diff voltages, so you cant directly replace them like the low beams. requires more work, and doesn't really make any improvements, because fogs throw light closer to the car. I find that most don't do high beams. I didn't do mine, as my high beams work great stock.
1. I want to keep it looking as OEM as possible without getting too aftermarket. What Kelvin should I go with?
4.5k - 5k
2. Do I upgrade the fogs and high beams as well?
Fogs you can High beams I wont due to slow warm up of HIDs before full brightness.
3. I am paying a company to install due to their warranty. Anything I should know or keep in mind when I make the appointment?
Might or might not need warning cancelers if the DRLs start to flicker. Relay harness will be a safer route incase your worried about the stock harness frying. And carefully note on the ballast wattage and stock wiring (35watts is safer on stock wiring).
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LED (Interior, back up, license plate), 5k lows HIDs, 6k halogen highs, 3k fogs, chrome/amber turn signals, euro running boards, factory painted spoiler, Rebadged, clear rear turn signals, Fiamm horns, husky floormats, window visors, shark fin antenna.
1.4500k will be closest to white.
5200 is the slightest tinge of blue at certain angles, reminds me of an audi/bmw HIDs. anything higher gets blue/purple. I installed 5200k and love them. anything lower than 4500k gets yellow.
2. fogs run on diff voltages, so you cant directly replace them like the low beams. requires more work, and doesn't really make any improvements, because fogs throw light closer to the car. I find that most don't do high beams. I didn't do mine, as my high beams work great stock.
correction. the bulbs are lower wattage, not voltage.
Do only low beams. Others - are not really usefull.
Fogs - do NOT do them into HID. You will regret it as too much light in the front will cause too much glare FOR YOU, what will result in subjective decrease of long distance visibility. Does it make sense?
I mean - make it very bright in front, and you will not see too much farther...
Also I'm only doing Low beams and not High beams as this will be sufficient light output. I wanted to do the high beams to maintain a nice look but I do alot of flashing with my high beams and if they were HID's that would significantly lower their lifespan.
I'm going with the 5k look.
Fog lights aren't a lower wattage, they are a different lightwave, I hope I use the correct term. Fogs are used mainly for fog and not really daily driving so that's why they seem duller.
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