Timing belt issues. - Kia Forum
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#1 (permalink) Old 11-20-2012, 03:45 PM
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Default Timing belt issues.

So 2010 kia Rio. Tackling timing belt.
Got everything off down to the crankshaft pulley.
Using a 110 dewalt impact.
No luck.

Anyone try the bump start method?

Thinking I should get another impact.

Or go with rope in the pistons and big ole pry-bar.

Anything I'm missing?
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#2 (permalink) Old 11-21-2012, 09:41 AM
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Problem solved.
Used a breaker bar wedged up against the sub-frame with a jack stand wedged up to hold it.
Took about 3-4 bumps to break it loose.

Now I realize my gates component kit does NOT include a $3.00 spring.
Factory order.

I'm gonna gamble and reinstall old spring.
I'm at 62k miles.

Am I looking at disaster here?

Would like to sleep at night.
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#3 (permalink) Old 11-22-2012, 07:00 AM
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same here, gates kit and no spring. as i remember the spring sets the tension but then you tighten the tensioner down, so then the spring doesnt do anything. i gave mine a little, and i mean little, extra tension with my finger, then tighten. couple days later i checked the belt tension by taking off the upper cover, everything was good, belt should be a little loose. by the way mine had 55,000 miles when i did it. that was 6,000 miles ago.
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#4 (permalink) Old 11-22-2012, 10:15 PM
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Bigbfarm,

When you stay "Took about 3-4 bumps to break it loose" are you referring to bumping the starter (Turning the starter over?).

Hope it all works out for ya.
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#5 (permalink) Old 11-23-2012, 08:00 PM
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Yes, great technique, I used a breaker bar/socket which I wedged against the subframe with a jack stand. I also removed the fuel pump relay so she wouldn't start up.
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#6 (permalink) Old 11-23-2012, 09:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigbfarm View Post
Yes, great technique, I used a breaker bar/socket which I wedged against the subframe with a jack stand. I also removed the fuel pump relay so she wouldn't start up.
Might be safer to disconnect the ignition coils - there may be just enough residual fuel pressure to fire once.

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#7 (permalink) Old 11-25-2012, 07:29 AM
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Since you're using the bump start method to remove the Crank Pulley bolt because you don't have an impact gun handy, how do you re-torque the bolt during the re-assembly without rotating the Crank?

Last edited by toddb; 11-27-2012 at 02:01 PM.
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#8 (permalink) Old 11-25-2012, 09:43 AM
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No, Todd. I had what I thought was a nice dewalt 110v impact wrench.
Wouldn't do the job.

The proper way to tighten I guess would be with a strap wrench on the pulley or rope down the cylinders. I just hammered on it with my impact. Off the top of my head torque is 105lbs, my gun is rated for something like that.

That bolt is also supposed to be replaced with new.
Didn't do that either. Maybe at 120k when I do it again.

Along with a new spring.
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#9 (permalink) Old 11-27-2012, 01:57 PM
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Sorry that was suppose to read; how do you re-torque the bolt during the re-assembly without rotating the Crank?
I was able to tighten the A/C, P/S, and Alternator belts up real tight (temporary overtigthen them) then I blocked the P/s Pump Pulley by jamming it with something, this allowed me to get about 70ft/lbs on the Crank Pulley Bolt before the belts started to slip.
This should be enough to get me to a garage soon and have them snug it up more with an Impact gun (105ft/lbs)
Any thoughts?
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#10 (permalink) Old 11-27-2012, 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by bigbfarm View Post
or rope down the cylinders.
Not sure what you mean with this?
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