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Swapping engine in daughter's... 01 Sephia. ((Crank broke in the vicinity of the crank snout where the pulleys bolt on... never seen anything like it... about 40% just... broke off) 2200 by the dealer to swap in a used engine, 3200 to repair the current engine. I've swapped engines before, but never FWD. It's a M/T.))
I've reached the point on the swap to remove the driveaxles. Pulling it as an engine/trans unit. I'm working on the first one... D/S.
Simply put, I can't get either driveaxle out of the trans.
I've tried to pry it. I've turned it several times to move the retainer ring inside the trans. I've tried pulling it while turning it. Should i just get a really big pry bar and muscle that thing out of there?
Meanwhile, I'm going to try the passenger side.
It's actually getting rather frustrating, not to mention time consuming.
Any help would be appreciated and I'm sorry I haven't done a longer intro post... it's hard to see the screen with the steam coming out of my ears.
If you get the passenger side out (probable)...Take a wood dowel through that hole and tap the driver side out being careful not to damage the internal gear teeth. There should be a retaining ring that is holding it in place that won't cooperate. Try a local auto parts store for a rental "cv joint sliding hammer puller" or attach a channelock plier to the axle shaft and use your pry bar...between the pliers and a place on the frame.
also see.. http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM7257730902P
Last edited by DavesSpectra; 02-26-2013 at 07:32 PM.
Thanks, Dave. I was just wondering if a pickle fork might work as well... up from the bottom?
Fixed. Used a pry-bar AND a screw driver. Make sure you bring the used axles into to match up with the replacements if you're going that route: they had the wrong one for the driver's side and I figured that out before I left the parts store (O'Reilly's in Battle Ground, WA)
Dave : I have tried everything to get the drivers side axel out of the tranny. Drilled hole through housing and used slid hammer; airhammer with chisels; pri bars and screw drivers; pulled out passenger axel unit out from tranny and tried pounding drivers side axel from inside tranny with sledge. NO luck. whats up?
From what AriSephia has posted it's a bear to get them out. The axles are held in the casing with a retainer ring that requires a constant tension (pry bar or hydraulic body jack)to remove it. It will slip back into the retainer with a pulsed movement the second the pulse stops.
Also, with the pressure off, try spinning the axle a little each time. The clip has a gap in it (looks like this)
Having spent the better part of 8 hours trying every thing else I could think of, and having read somewhere that with the gap on the bottom, the top of the C clip would sink slightly, reducing contact with the inside surface that keeps it locked in, I thought I might be able to have a better shot at it if the gap would be at the down opposition. So, by spinning it you should have the least resistance to getting it out if the gap is directly at the 6 o'clock (bottom) position. (It's at the 12 o'clock position in the picture above.)
The clip itself is located on the very end of the assembly, about like this:
I spun it slightly, and jammed two large (18 inch or so) flat bladed screw drivers behind the CV joint at the same time, popping them towards the passenger side to kind of get the CV joint/axle assembly (I didn't take the CV joint apart, I was going to use them for the core charge.) to just let go.
After a few minutes of spinning and muscling, sitting on the ground with the front end jacked up in the air (on jack stands, of course: ALWAYS use jack stands) I "popped" the screw drivers in using a lot of muscle and that thing just let go and the CV joint came flying out.
And, I sincerely hope I never have to do it again.
I hope your "adventure" in Sephias went smoothly with the engine exchange after the CV joints/half axles.
I spent about 4 hrs yesterday "just" replacing front pads on an "early" 04 Sonata (same as 04 Optima) that I put back together for my daughter. There are two different sets of pads and of course I got the wrong ones the first time..Then the replacements wouldn't fit as the manufacturer must punch the steel out of heavy stock and there were deformed "ears" that should have fit into the slides.. Ground off burrs and got them to fit then while trying to reassemble the slave piston on the calipers I found the "sliding" pins were rusted in place and would not allow the piston ass'y to clamp over the pads...More un-friendly words spoken... Lots of penetrating oil, wrenches, hammers, broke them loose and finally got them back together and working properly... She was told (by an "expert") the pads were gone and the old ones had 3/16" of material left and I being a good Dad said we should replace them after tearing the brakes down....Cars are an adventure...
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