Timing Marks Are Good, #1 Cyl Not @ TDC

w98seeng · 01-27-2013, 06:56 PM

I have a 2001 Sephia that is not running right. I get a bunch of codes and I feel the timing is at issue. The car runs just OK when cold, but after a min or two it starts to sputter and jumble.

All the timing marks are lined up properly, the two cam marks are lined up with the two arrows on the valve cover and the bottom timing belt sprocket is lined up with the mark @ 12:00. The problem is that the #1 cylinder (1st on passenger side) is not at TDC. I can see the cams being out, but how can the crank be out?

(This pic has the #1 cylinder at TDC) The red arrow shows where the TDC arrow is, the orange arrow shows where the timing mark is. The ring on the sprocket with the timing mark is (green arrow) is this removable? Maybe someone took off the sprocket and didn't put it on right so the bottom is actually off.

Timing Marks Are Good, #1 Cyl Not @ TDC-img_0089.jpg

Every other car I have timed, it is done with the #1 cylinder @TDC, this one is off by 2 teeth on top and 4 teeth on the bottom.

The key-way is on and not twisted. Why would the piton not be at TDC?

If this is normal, fine, but it doesn't make sense.

Ian

DavesSpectra · 01-27-2013, 08:58 PM

You said "The car runs just OK when cold, but after a min or two it starts to sputter and jumble." That sounds like when the car goes from open loop to closed closed loop and is actively responding to sensors it discounts or ignores when cold the problems begin. There are temperature sensors,MAF/MAP sensors, O2 sensors, etc that are not included in the decisions when the engine is cold...

The timing would be "out" both when it is cold and when it warms up...
so I would discount that posibility. Have you accessed kiatechinfo.com for the proper way to set the timing... You may be using the wrong marks and reference points.
What are the "codes" you mentioned but did not post here..
Dave

w98seeng · 01-28-2013, 11:35 AM

This is the reason...

Timing Marks Are Good, #1 Cyl Not @ TDC-img_0092.jpg

I didn't see the groove made by the keyway because of the rust dust was packed into it and I didn't see it.

Now, how do I fix this? I remember once seeing this problem on Sportages posted on the net, but I have to find the solution.

Ian

w98seeng · 01-29-2013, 11:09 AM

For those interested, this can be fixed.

I welded over the broken part of the crank and ground it smooth.

Broken

Timing Marks Are Good, #1 Cyl Not @ TDC-img_0094.jpg

Welded

Timing Marks Are Good, #1 Cyl Not @ TDC-img_0103.jpg

DavesSpectra · 01-29-2013, 04:34 PM

Good reason for the piston not being TDC... Nice welding/grinding job. Hope the oil seal didn't get damaged from the heat. Have you ran it yet?
The metal must be pretty soft for it to wear like that..I would have believed that the shear pin would have become distorted or or wore through first.
Was the nut loose allowing the pulley to move on the shaft?
Always a first time...
Dave