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2000 Sephia with ~►Blinkin' O/D Light ~► also a Dim HeadLamp.

53K views 94 replies 14 participants last post by  Loyale 2.7 Turbo 
#1 · (Edited)
2000 Sephia with Blinkin' O/D Light ~► SOLVED! ;)

So, my 2000 Sephia with 2003 Spectra engine had an amazing performance all the First year since the engine Swap... (more info about that, ~► Here) ...but recently the Speedometer stayed at Zero regardless the vehicle's Speed and the O/D Light started Blinkin' while the Check engine Light came On along, I Saw it for the First time since the Engine Swap.


So I Removed a Battery cable and started to Check things around...

I was Hoping there was just something that Became Loose, because I Went in a Long travel on unpaved (Secondary) Roads here, in my Countrie's mountains, (110 Miles) and there was Lots of Vibration due to the bad Roads.

So, while Being there at a Mountain's village; I Removed and Cleaned all the electrical Terminals, also I Removed, cleaned and put back in its place the Vehicle's Speed sensor that is Located under the Air Filter Box, also I Cleaned its Contacts.

Voilá! ... it Fixed the Speedometer issue at all and the Blinkin' O/D Light went away, along the Check Engine Light... and that lasted all the way back home on that bad roads. (another 110 Miles)


I Was happy untill the Passenger's side Headlamp went Dim and came back to Brightness alternatively as the Vehicle fell on Potholes, then Dim again...

I Already Checked the Wires and the Bulb itself, also the Relay and Nothing...

Seems like it has a Loose Ground, so Here comes my First Question:

Where is Located the Grounding for the HeadLamps?

...or there is another issue that could be causing a Dim Headlight?


Now, I Have a Problem with my Sephia: Back in my City, I was driving on a Speedy Highway and then the Transmission took too Long to Shift between gears... Suddenly the O/D Light came to Blink again, along the Check engine Light that came On... Just like the issue I Had on the Mountain's Highs; but now the Speedometer is Working properly, without fails.

Time for More Questions: What does Cause this Issue, beside the Vehicle's Speed Sensor, that Now is Fixed and Working Properly...

Is there a Transmission Speed Sensor? ... if so, Where is it?

Somehow I'm newbie in Automatic transmissions...

ATF Oil is in Proper Level, well... it reads a Li'l Bit overfilled... is Chevron; just changed six months ago.

Please, help me... this is my Wife's car :eek: and she Believes that I did wrong to take it to unpaved roads... I Use to do it very often on my Subaru, By the Way, both my Subie and my Sephia runs on 205/60 R15 all-terrain tires.

Any idea will be Highly appreciated. :)

Kind Regards.

~JesZeK.
 
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#66 ·
Flawlessly!!!

I Placed the Transmission back onto the "KiaStein" a couple of days ago; after I finished the Timing Belt Job; and the car has been Working Absolutely Flawlessly since then.

It is amazing that this thansmission has been survived a grinded differential's side gears and 170,000 miles, and does shift so smooth and holds on gear so good, that seems to be ready for the next 170,000 miles! :thumbsup:
 
#67 ·
New Feature

In fact, the transmission completely cleansed, with fresh Valvoline's High Mileage ATF oil and New -to me- Differential's side gears; has developed a new feature that I never experienced before in the Car; let me elaborate further.

In the Past, since we obtained this car, on every single Semaphore (Red Light / Traffic Light) Stopping with the Shifter at "D" (Drive) position, the car shaked in a high pitch frequency, doing the hood and the dashboard plus its contents to rattle along; so we always shifted to "N" (Neutral) during small stoppings, and in downhill traffic jams, we had it on "N" (Neutral) and only used the Brake pedal to let it go / hold it in place, in that way we avoided that annoying rattle.

Now things have Changed Dramatically; now we can leave the car in "D" (Drive) and it works like if there is some sort of "Clutch" that we never felt before; now the car stays stopped in "D" (Drive) so tranquil that you hardly believe it is not in Neutral.

Also, when I first accelerate from the Stopping Point, where the car has been stopped in "D" (Drive) for a while, it takes a very small but noticeable delay in engage it on gear, so it starts moving very smooth, while in the past, the car wanted to Race all the Time, because with pretty little acceleration, it moved faster from Zero speed.

That makes the Parking / Reversing maneuvers to be safer, because the driver knows it will not "Jump" with little acceleration, so the Driver feels more confident of this car.

The rest of the Transmission's Performance is almost identical to what it used to be, the only minor difference is that it now downshifts a little quicker on steep hills.

I've been driving the "KiaStein" for two days, doing many errands, and it feels way Better than Never, like a brand new Car.

Kind Regards.
 
#68 ·
Report

More than fifteen days and 750 Miles has passed already, since I reinstalled the Transmission back onto the "KiaStein" and it has been working Absolutely Flawlessly since then. Thanks to God.

Kind Regards.
 
#69 ·
Use the Proper ATF for your Transmission!!!

Don't forget to pour the Proper ATF for your Transmission as indicates the manual, remember that not all the ATF has the same properties, and using the wrong one might lead to improper lubrication, and even shearing of internal parts.
 
#70 ·
In my Case, I filled the F-4EAT Automatic Transmission on the "KiaStein" with Valvoline's "High Mileage" ATF, plus one quart of Lucas "Transmission Fix" Additive; and that mix does work Awesome.
 
#71 · (Edited)
Beware on ATF Additives !!!

Very Basically Talking, there are Two types of Lubrication Systems for the Differentials, that comes integrated onto the Automatic Transmission's Case, or "Transaxle" as those combos are known nowadays.

First Type: The Differential has its Own Lubrication, independent from the Rest of the Transmission's Lubrication System and also uses its own independent Lubricant.

Second Type: The Differential shares the same Lubrication system and the same Lubricant that is used for the Transmission.


Also, very Basically Talking, there are Two types of ATF Additives, which independently from the benefits they could do and their disadvantages; the ATF Additives could be divided in Two Big Groups:

First Group: Are all of those ATF additives which actually Thins the ATF and works as detergent. In this group, you can find additives such like "Trans-X", and much more.

Second Group: Are all of those ATF additives which actually mades the ATF to be "Thicker" or more Dense, and works as an added "Cushion" between moving parts to prevent shearing. In this group, you can find additives such like the "Lucas Transmission Fix" and much more.

Why is this very important?

Because if you pour an ATF Additive that thins the ATF and works as detergent, onto an Automatic Transmission's Fluid which also lubricates the Differential, and you drive long term like that, there will be a very high Risk of Breaking the Differential Gears due to improper Lubrication. Independently from the advantages that such additives could do to the Transmission; they simply are Not intended for the Differential, period.

However, you might pour the same ATF additive onto transmissions which does Not share the ATF for the Differential, in such case there is No Risk for the differential, because it is isolated from the ATF and has its own lubricant.

So, in case of Automatic Transmissions that shares the Same ATF for the Differential, you might pour those ATF additives for short term use only, in example to work as detergents prior to a complete ATF drain and then Refill with fresh ATF; but if you really need to Pour an ATF additive for long term use, on this kind of Transmissions that shares the ATF with the Differential, I highly recommend to chose wisely, from the ones that doesn't thin the ATF.

Kind Regards.
 
#72 ·
Download the Attached .pdf file

Take a Look to the Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) about the Automatic Transmissions on the Sephia, and some other Kia Models:
 

Attachments

#73 ·
so i was having a bit of trouble with my transmission in my 2001. A TON of good information in this thread so i thought this was a good place to seek advice. while i was working on a non related issue with the radiator a hose popped off and poured transmission fluid under the car. so i went to replace it off with SP III transmission fluid and over filled it just a tad. since then iv been trying to let out a little bit at a time whenever i could find time. so yesterday when i was trying to drive it home from class the CEL came on and the O/D light started to blink. i let the car cool off a couple hours and try to drive it again and when the car pulls away from a dead stop, it like to rev higher than normal before a slight kick and then it feel like it "catches a gear" and then accelerates as normal. the transmission revs quite high (based off sound since it doesnt have a tach) before changing into the next gear. the car also does feel like its getting all of the power to the ground.
i went to advanced auto and ask them to look at the codes it was sending and they told me that it was a torque converter clutch seleniod.
does anyone have information on if this seleniod could be the root of my problems or if there is anything else to check before? electrical connectors or something?
also is this something i would be able to replace with the transmission in the car?
 
#74 ·
ATF Overfill

... poured transmission fluid under the car. so i went to replace it off with SP III transmission fluid and over filled it ...
The Overfill on the ATF could also make the O/D indicator Blinking, plus a Check Engine indicator Lit, as I Explained in post Nº 54 of this mere Thread:

Three: If the Automatic Transmission on your Kia is Overfilled, in example, when it has one quart more of ATF than the Specs, it could develop the same Code, and the Symptoms you described appear after the car reaches higher speeds...
 
#75 ·
How to Measure Correctly the Total ATF Amount

So, in case of ATF Overfill, you must remove the excess AND disconnect the Battery for at least 20 minutes to reset the codes; remember: to Measure how much ATF oil is on your car's automatic transmission, I kindly suggest you to follow this steps:
.
  1. Let it reach normal operatin' temps,
    .
  2. Put the Shifter in each position (1, 2, D, N, R, P) for two or three seconds after engaging, while Braking the car,
    .
  3. Do that twice and then go measure the ATF Level in the Dipstick, with engine Running at idle speed.
    .
  4. The ATF Oil Level must be between the two notches for Hot Temps, as indicated on the dipstick.
 
#76 ·
Watch the Video for an Easy Procedure to correct an Overfill

In case it is Overfilled, you can Drain enough amount of ATF.

Or follow the easy instructions on the Following Video:



Kind Regards.​
 
#77 ·
So I leveled the fluid out so the correct amount was in the transmission and reset the codes, then took the car for a test drive about 15 miles. The car shifted and drove normal however the blinking o/d light and check engine came back on after ten miles. I did notice as well that the car seemed to have slight trouble getting going when brough to a dead stop. It would rev a little hugh before going into gear
 
#78 ·
Go Get the Codes!

If the Automatic Transmission has never been Flushed, sounds like it is Time to do a Flush and Pour fresh ATF...

But if there are any electronical fail, such like wrong TSS or VSS readings, the flush will never fix anything; so I Kindly suggest you to take your Kia to a place that offers free Scan of the OBD-II Codes, and share here the codes they'll give you, in order to properly help you.

Kind Regards.
 
#79 ·
A flush sounds like it is in order. However I feel I should also note that everytime I check the fluid with the engine running the dibstick doesnt get a clear reading. There are streaks going up the sides of the dibstick but not a clear line of fluid across the stick.
Also I had the codes read at advanced auto parts and they said the code being thrown is for the torque converter clutch solenoid.
i appericate all your feedback, thank you.
 
#80 ·
Seafoam's "TransTune"

If you do the Flush, I suggest you to pour a Can of Seafoam's "Trans-Tune" detergent in the old ATF Oil, and drive the car for a while with it, prior to Drain all the ATF oil out.

If the Dipstick doesn't give you clear readings, I bet your transmission is Low on ATF oil, and the only clear reading is at the low bottom of the Dipstick...

if that is the case, it could need a little more than half quart... in that case this could be the moment for the Trans Tune... Follow the directions on the Can:

~► How To Use Trans Tune

Good Luck!
Kind Regards.
 
#81 ·
#82 ·
Beware of Lousy Quality Kia Replacement Parts

I am very Deeply disappointed with the Lousy quality of the "Kia Genuine Parts", specifically the two Brand New rubber hoses with inner braided core, that the local Kia dealer sold to me, for the Automatic Transmission's Cooling Lines...




I purchased them right after I finished to change the Differential, when I did the complete Transmissions' internals cleanup, four months ago, more information & photos on that subject, here:

~► http://www.kia-forums.com/2g-1998-2001-sephia/149586-sudden-severe-failure-differential-4.html

The Old transmission cooling hoses were dry, hard, but in Good Shape for being the original ones of the Car, but I decided to change them with newer ones from the Kia Dealer, which used the vehicle's Vin number to sell me the appropiate parts.

Long story short: I noticed that the new hoses were very thin, in fact, they looked like a condom with thin braided nylon, extremely flexibles... and they lasted less than two months and a half of average driving: suddenly, one of them ripped out, in the middle of a Trip, leaking two full quarts of the fresh ATF to the road, and my wife noticed that 'till the car went to neutral in the middle of nowhere.

My wife used her cellphone to call to the insurance company, for a tow truck, to bring the car back to home again... 70 miles away.

The two Reason why I wanted then, to install original Kia replacement hoses, were:
.
  1. The Braided Hose must be intended for Hot Oil in High Pressures, and I thought that there won't be nothing better than original Kia replacements.
  2. The Hoses had many diferent intrincated curves, shaped to avoid hitting anything on the engine bay.

But the Old hoses were triple thick than the New ones. When I removed the two "New" Kia hoses after two and a half months of use, the two looked "inflated" to two sizes more from their original diameter, and came out extremely soft... including one of them ripped out.

So, I decided to search for a suitable hose replacement, it must be designed to bear High Temperatures of Hot Oil at High Pressures, and I found in a local car parts' store, a "GoodYear" brand hose for Hot, presurized oils (Hydraulic use) which beside the inner braids, also has an external, protective braid:



Despite that this hose comes without any curve nor shape, it was pretty easy to install it, without touching anything on the engine bay, so Problem = Solved.

Kind Regards.
 
#86 ·
I have a KIA with a 2003 transmission. The code on it says FBK2N60.
When I shift gears, the lights in the dash show that I am changing gears. The cable is changing the gears mechanically. The transmission does not react to shifting. Will not move in forward or reverse and acts like it wasn't even put into gear.
Any ideas what could cause this? total failure? or possibly just a gear inside that isn't shifting the trans?
 
#87 ·
... Any ideas what could cause this? ...
Low level of ATF Fluid.

Check it with engine at normal operatin' Temperatures, while being at idle speed, put the Shifter in all gears for some seconds then go measure the level on the Dipstick while the Shifter is in NEUTRAL position + engine at idle speed.

Don't forget to pull the Parkin' brake Lever.

In certain cases, a High ATF level could cause the Trans to stay in Neutral, but Low level is the most common cause, people usually does not know how to measure the ATF level, properly.

Kind Regards.
 
#88 ·
You have been very helpful in sharing your experience here Loyale.
As the original owner of a Kia Sephia 1999, i love this car so much. It still rock and i drive it like no tomorrow.
Now my car is more than 350,000 km with the transmission still intact. The transmission was recond back in 2004 or so due to an accident.
Currently the car shudder between 1st gear to 2nd gear, but i leave it untouched, more several years now.
Yesterday i have a blinking Overdrive light for the first time ever. I thought it must be an electrical issue because the day before that i drove in heavy rain and ran through deep puddle and immediately after, parked the car.
Your cleaning regiment seems to be working good on the gears, i think i will try your way first for the cleaning.
The car stil has most of its original parts, absorbers, oil pumps, water pumps, radiator, ac etc, you name it. It is still original.
I think KIA really make good cars.
 
#89 ·
Thank you for your kind words, which I really appreciate.

... Yesterday i have a blinking Overdrive light for the first time ever. I thought it must be an electrical issue because the day before that i drove in heavy rain and ran through deep puddle and immediately after, parked the car...
I kindly suggest you to use some shots of Electronical Contact Cleaner in Spray, on the wiring's plugs, maybe they're wet. Follow the instructions on the spray can.

Kind Regards.
 
#91 ·
Three Years Trans / One Year Diff Report!

More than three years has already passed, since the complete cleansing of the Automatic Transmission, and the sensors' change, as I stated on the first posts of this Thread; also more than one year has passed already since the Differential change on same transmission.

I'm glad to report that it has been working Flawlessly, shifting smooth like silk and working strong, like new, thanks to God, despite of having more than 190,000 miles, and being mistreated by the previous owner.

Kind Regards.
 
#92 ·
Something that I've learned about the F-4EAT automatic Transmission, is that it really needs to move the Shifter to each position and let it stay there for Five seconds, then back to Neautral, one by one, two rounds, finally leave the shifter in NEUTRAL with the engine idling at normal operating temperatures, Prior to remove the Transmission Dipstick, clean it, and Measure the ATF level.

Otherwise, if you don't shift for five seconds to each position, two times, the ATF level will be falsely Lower than it really is.

Another thing that I've learned from that transmission, is that the entire reading area on the Dipstick, from totally empty to full, covers the last eight ounces of ATF only; so be Careful while pouring fresh ATF, do it with the engine at idle speed, on normal operating temps and with the shifter in Neutral.

Never forget to pull the Park Brake lever.
 
#93 ·
In case you Overfilled the Transmission, use this pretty Simple and Easy procedure, to remove the excess amount of ATF (it also works with engine oil):


Kind Regards.​
 
#94 ·
The Dipstick on the Automatic Transmission of these Kias, only mark around the last eight ounces of ATF, so if the dipstick readings are low, do not pour half quart of ATF or you'll easily overfill the transmission; pour slowly some few ounces with the engine at idle speed and then, repeat the measuring procedure described above, on post Nº 92, to see if the ATF level is right.

The ATF level Raises rapidly (within two minutes) on the Dipstick if the car sits at idle on normal operating temperatures; so it is important to repeat the procedure for measuring properly the ATF level, each time it will be measured, otherwise you'll have a False reading that shows more than what really is inside.

Also, a slight overfill makes the Automatic transmission to have Bubbles on the ATF, which leads it to shift abruptly with a "Bump" mainly, from first to second gear... you can't believe how much of a difference makes to have the Automatic Transmission pefectly filled to the proper level of the adequate ATF.

Kind Regards.
 
#95 ·
Different Behaviours between "Normal" and "O/D OFF" Modes

These Automatic Transmissions, found on the second gen Sephia / first gen Spectra \ Shuma, has four front gears plus one overdrive; you can really "feel" five changes, on the RPM's and motor noise if you pay attention... but despite that you feel five changes, there are only Four Speeds, plus an Overdrive.

You can shift without the Push Button, between "D" and "N" and also you can pull the Shifter from "R" to "N" without using the Push Button, but that's it; every other position, requires that Push Button, pressed. Also you can start the Engine while the shifter is in "N" and "P" only.

This transmission and its TCU are pretty Different from other Automatic Transmissions, this features an anti-slippery surfaces' second gear shifter's position, on which if you select "2" the car actually starts and moves directly on Second gear, no first gear at all; it only uses first gear on "1" and "D" while the "2" locks it in second, to aid during snowy or muddy driving.

You can notice that the car does an extra effort to move from zero speed, if it is in "2" taking longer times to reach high RPM's; but it moves faster when it is in "1" or in "D" on the Shifter.

Similarities with the modern "ECO" and Sports" modes:

The Overdrive has its own button to activate / deactivate it, under the Big push button on the Shifter; the Overdrive is activated as default, it is known as "Normal" mode and there is no warning light about it; but if the Overdrive is off, the instrument cluster shall display a warning light that says "O/D OFF" and the Transmission's TCM turns on some kind of "Sports Mode" / "ECO Mode" on the ECU, let me explain:

In Normal mode, the transmission tries to reach all the four gears plus overdrive, as soon as it can, so you'll see low RPM's shiftings, unless you're pressing the accelerator pedal deep, which makes the car to accelerate Faster and reaching much Higher RPM's prior to do the Speed Changes while uses more Gasoline.

But if the Overdrive is Off, the instrument cluster will display the "O/D OFF" warning light, and the TCU will allow the Transmission, to reach its first Three gears only; no fourth gear nor overdrive, (on normal mode, it reaches all four gears plus the Overdrive); But the "O/D OFF" mode also changes the RPM range needed prior to do a speed shift, needing higher RPM's to shift, like if you are Deeply pressing the accelerator pedal, which is some kind of "Sports Mode" and even also, the "O/D OFF" mode, moves the Partial Fuel Supply Cut off to an Early point, so you'll notice that it cuts the acceleration on earlier RPM's, if you're not touching the Accelerator pedal and the car reaches above 2500 RPM's going downhill; that feature is similar to the "ECO" mode found in modern cars nowadays, and is ideal for driving on long downhills, as that earlier partial fuel cut off prevents from using too much brake pedal, adding Safety to your drive.

There is No "Eco" nor "Sports" mode officially on these generation of cars, but the way that the ECU and TCU communicates and changes different Parameters / Behaviours, such as shifting ranges, partial Fuel Supply cut off, etc, between Normal Mode and O/D Off Mode, is pretty similar to those ECO / Sports modes of today.

I put the Overdrive off when the car is going on very long downhills on Highways, so it keeps the Speed reasonable, while you almost not need to use the Brakes, is a Safety feature somehow; Also I use the "O/D OFF" mode while driving on steep uphills, so the car remains in third gear at full power / torque band, constantly; as it prevents the transmission from trying to shift to four nor overdrive, all the time.

You shall be Smart to learn / use that features found on the "O/D OFF" button, on the second gen Sephia / first gen Spectra \ Shuma, to take advantage from it.

Kind Regards.
 
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