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Most Common Issues 98-2001 Sephia

38K views 15 replies 14 participants last post by  Loyale 2.7 Turbo 
#1 · (Edited)
I would like to start a post listing a lot of common issues associated with the 2nd Generation Sephias.
Please add issues you know of, or have experienced.

This list is NOT for a 1 times issue. This post is for things that seem to happen to a lot of these cars.

I will start:

1. Plug wires= Throws a misfire code

2. Plugs upon replacement= Plugs always say "pre-gapped" they will be gapped at .044 which is not right. Gap them to .028-.032

3. Frozen door handles= You will not be able to get in/out, or door will not latch shut. Simply warm up the car with heat blasting. It will take some time. Some say you can use some grease/silicon to help, but doesn't always work. I found if your in a hurry an it is frozen and won't latch when you shut the door, get in and lock it. It will stay closed, though if you are doing a short drive, you might be locked in lol, and have to crawl out the passenger side door, hopefully that 1 is not frozn too lol.

4. Random/no starts= Clean the battery cables. They become corroded over time and do need cleaning.

I am sure there are more and I might even think of more. Please post here if you know of some. It might just help a member out..
 
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#3 ·
3 sets of cv axles and 2 trannys, faulty sensor connectors all broke at plug, rear defrost has short kills battery when you leave in the fuse, dash board came unglued, rear brakes squeaal after replacing them numerous times, 3 alternators, 4 batteries, blower motor shorted, if u leave the ac on when u cut off the car it causes a misfire code, have to rev up engine when first cranked up to let elec system "catch" up lights will be dim untul u rev the engine for 10-15 sec. if i think of anymore ill post em. 2000 kia sephia bought new.
 
#4 ·
bdporch, funny you mention cv axles. I recently replaced the passenger side, and about two months later, the driver's side boot is torn. I also had issues with the blower motor short. Bad positive. I ran my own line from the interior fuse box. Worked for a few yrs until it recently melted a fuse.
The brakes are my biggest issue. The rear drums are useless. The self-adjuster is totally stripped and I haven't found a replacement. The front pads overlap the rotors. OEM replacement parts...Even the pads I took off the car had the same issue. The metal backing rubs against the hub of the rotor...
However, for some reason, the car keeps on going. Albeit with only 68k, it should be going strong...
 
#5 ·
My 1st 2001 Sephia: started with 112K (std). had to replace coils and plugs (wont start), door lock froze would not shut so I latched to the passenger side and drove to work until the sun/heater warmed door, also replaced the driver handle, replaced emergency brake cable (cables never worked properly), engine catalytic converter, both O2 sensors upstream & downstream of the converter, hood pole broke at hood clip, 2nd radio stop working, new batter cables, dashboard curl, Clutch always at top, cigarette lighter & other fuses. Engine light would never go out even when I addressed the codes (I gave up). The mechanic did other repairs but I don't remember. I also drove it under a stopped truck, and crunched the hood. I finally sold the car with 161K for $400 to people claiming they were going to ship the car overseas and use it as a taxi (truth)

2nd 2000 Sephia: Bought with 70K (std) for $500. Drove Car from MA to VA …slowly – it loves the warmer weather, had some alternator problems (bearing ), engine light went on for a few weeks then went out, now getting brake light (have leak, likely wheel cylinder), rear defrost works poorly, need drums – will continue to edit

These cars suck; loud, need repairs constantly. Need to always have cell phone and Tow card in the glove (it will fail) but I never lock it, they run forever (if they run), there cheap to buy and pretty good on gas and I do most of the repairs if I can (remove & replace repairs).
 
#6 ·
lots of issues

Good to know i am not alone! my 01 sephia has never left me sitting but it seems like the little stuff just wont stop going wrong! My passenger door wont unlock with the key, the driver door handle freezes in the winter, the dashboard is all curled up (every sephia i've ever seen has this issue) The check engine light wont go off regardless of how many times i clear the code, the airbag light flashes whenever it feels like it, there's a wiring issue that causes the lights on the gear shift and temperature controls to go out half the time, it has trouble starting when i put gas in it ( i think i have figured out the cause but the solenoid i need is "dealer only". thankfully NAPA has it and my husband can get a discount but they still have to order it from their main warehouse). the trunk leaks when it rains, the compressor for the air conditioner locked up so i had to bypass it with a shorter belt so i could still have power steering cuz the 2 days i went without it was pretty awful.. so yeah.. my kia has a ton of issues! I will say though that with over 190,000 miles it is still doing pretty good considering issues i've had with other vehicles. Since I do most of the work myself and can get discounts on parts I really haven't had to put much money into it but I definitely wouldn't recommend this car for someone that pays a shop to do everything. ;)
 
#7 ·
2001, purchased new and we are currently on our 4th or 5th alternator @ ~140k miles :)

- timing belt dropped at a stop light @ ~65k miles. i thought the head was trashed so i removed it and saw there was absolutely nothing wrong with it. let the machine shop clean it and do a valve job on it with new valve stem seals.

- dash is warped from the sun

- shifter has lots of play, i mean lots. you have to bank it against the trim to get first gear, heh heh...
 
#8 ·
I have a 2000 sephia with 160,000 miles on it. Runs great. Over the years I'v replaced alternator, blower motor, both outer cv boots, both lower ball joints. Lower control arm bushings (dealer items only). I have had a problem for a few years with the clutch when the temp outside gets hot. The clutch pedal doesn't always come up off the floor, its still driveable though. I thought it was the clutch fork hanging up, and have tried numerous different things to try to lubricate it without luck. Finally pulled trans out the other day and found the throwout bearing is made mostly of plastic. Looks like it would get warm and expand and then stick. Just got parts for the car today. New throwout bearing is all metal so hopefully this will solve the problem.
 
#11 ·
My 2000 Sephia has 150,000 mile. So far only real issue was alternator. Preparing to install new clutch(just beecause) and needs outer CVs(cheaper to do whole axle). Also, fuel filter on rear next to gas tank rusted out, easy replacement. Car runs like a bat outta hell. Purchased new for $9950. 5 speed no frills good car( my dash did not curl )
CB
 
#12 ·
HAHAHA! ok we are a funny group to be sure.
Most folks would blast the maker but we just fix it and move on.
My list is 80% recycled parts from u pull it.
135k odometer but broke May 2012
Ive replaced all front brake componants 1-2x each, except lines/hoses. 6 sets of pads!
Engine mounts, Timing belt, Alternator 2x, Battery 2x, Radio, Tires, removed catalytic, Both coils and plugs/wires , 1 injector, all sensors underhood except brake level coolant level and washer. r front strut. drivers seat,Blower motor and resistor wire to it. power steering hose, Im sure theres more...
But for $1200 3 years back as a get by car it has now outlived Both cars I purchased to replace it with. I wanted to drive it to the crusher last year and the week before I did the $8k civic transmission slipped and caused engine to jump timing. $1900 If I do the work or just roll on with old mr KIA
You cant kill them mine is proof!
 
#13 · (Edited)
I have almost 240k on mine. It's been in 2 accidents and was repaired from both of them. I've done a transmission swap from the auto to a 5 speed about 100k ago. Still has the original engine and it still runs excellent. Cold air intake, header, and 2 1/4" exhaust. I've put 2 timing belts and a water pump on it. The first timing belt broke after 164k miles. I have the blower motor problem every now and then but I tap on the motor and it works for a while. I work at a Kia dealership as a tech and people tell me I should trade it in. It runs too good to let it go! Paid $6k 10 years ago, had almost 54,000 miles on it when I bought it.
 
#14 ·
I bought mine in January of 98 (manual trans/base); then drove it until 2005 (~130K miles).
I kept it in great shape, then i gave it to my sister who was starting college. She did little to no maintenance on it; she scrapped the car in 2013 with ~180K miles. Problems the car had:
* Door locks/handles froze in winter, then got stuck in the spring due to corrosion. I replaced the door handles (driver side) twice and re-greased the lock mechanism. The weatherstrips on the windows were poor quality. They need to be replaced every 60K to mitigate the problem.
* Dashboard sun damage. Horrible! It warped so bad. Replacing it was out of question; too expensive.
* Start issues. Battery to starter cable corroded badly after 100K; had to replaced (not expensive)
* Cassette deck/stereo and speakers. These had to go; sound was crappy. Replaced with Pioneer set.
* Timing belt pulley and tensioner. I replaced the timing belt twice, once at 70K and also at 140K. The belts were okay, but upon diassembly, the tensioner and idler's bearings were making grinding noises so bad. The t-belt service should not be skipped or delayed with these cars.
* Fuel pump. Soon after I got the car, I got stranded due to a fuel pump wiring corrosion problem. It was factory recalled soon after. At 160K, the car had a fuel pump issue again. I recalled the wiring problem; it was the wiring again (the harness connectors were corroded).
* Brakes. Early in the life of the car, it had issues with rotor warping. They released a TSB later, the problems was a bad blend between the rotor and the pad material (it overheated the rotors)
* Axle. Replaced the front axles at 160K. Found the axle bracket-extension bearing to be shot. Had to be removed, bearing pressed out, and replaced
* Seats were uncomfortable (base model)

Great things about the car:
* Parts were cheap
* A/c was ice cold
* Car was easy, simple, and straight forward to repair
* Starter and Altern. never failed
* Engine was easy to service, simplified design
* Bosch fuel injection never failed
* Manual Getrag transmission never failed
* Great fuel economy, city and highway. In long trips from NJ to Maine, I averaged 36mpg. 29mpg in the city, with lots of traffic lights.

Regards. MV
 
#16 ·
Start your own Thread

P1700 means that the switch that turns your overdrive on and off, has a problem. This also includes the bulb that lit the "O/D OFF" warning light as well.

~► P1700 Kia DTC: Overdrive lamp - circuit malfunction

The most common cause is the switch itself. The other common cause would be a burnt bulb on the Instrument Cluster.

You should do some testing to fully diagnose the problem in order to establish properly what is going on to your Kia, but I kindly suggest you to open a New Thread on the proper forum's section, providing more details of your Car, such like Model / Year \ options and background info regarding the trouble(s) you're experiencing now with it...

Hope this helps you... Kind Regards.
 
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