Fuel Pressure Regulator - Kia Forum
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-10-2007, 07:48 PM Thread Starter
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Default Fuel Pressure Regulator

Hi............new here. I bought my wife a 2001 Sephia (on 9/11/01, no less)and the fuel pressure regulator is leaking. I plan on getting a new one from the dealer (what a rip-off and what a bunch of jerks to deal with) and installing it myself.

Does anybody here have experience with this procedure? It looks simple enough, since it's right at the end of the incoming fuel line and connects to the fuel injector "thing" using 2 bolts. The main question is whether I'll need any special tools to get the old one off the fuel line and back on again. The line looks like it just slides onto the end of the P/R, but doesn't appear to have any kind of clamp to keep it tight.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-10-2007, 08:24 PM
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the clamp is built into the fitting. there's 2 buttons on the fitting...that is the clamp the holds it on. it's pretty simple to replace. all it is is 2 10mm bolts on the fuel rail and that fitting and that's it. make sure they give you a new O-ring and a gasket with the new one. don't reuse the old ones.

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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-10-2007, 10:50 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you for the advice. I'll mention those other parts when I get the regulator.

Take care.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-11-2007, 08:14 AM
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Make sure you get most of the fuel out of the line. Id start the car and then pull the fuel pump fuse. Let it die. Then try and start it a few times. Then proceed with the repair. Itll be hard to start after. Itll take a few starts to get it going is what I mean. And also be sure to bleed the system after. Theres a little button (like a tire valve) on the fuel rail. Push it in with a pen until gas comes out. Make sure to be careful not to get yourself with the gas.

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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-11-2007, 10:09 AM
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I have personally done this by just loosening the regulator and catching the little fuel that leaks out, then replace with new regulator, and then to build pressure in the system again I just turn the ignition switch on for a few seconds (20 secs), then off and repeat this a few times (4 X) and the fuel rail pressure will be more than adequate for a start attempt.

You can also build fuel rail pressure by placing a jumper on the Diagnostic plug terminals for about 2 mins - this jumpers the fuel pump relay causing the fuel pump to run continuous while jumpered.

The fuel system is self bleeding.

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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-11-2007, 11:11 AM
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When I replaced the fuel injectors with #19s my car wouldn't start running. I called a buddy and he told me to bleed it. Once I used that pen on the valve, there was 3-4 seconds of just air comming out. Then fuel came out. So the self bleeding to me isn't there.

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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-11-2007, 11:37 AM
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I suggest the OP try what I suggested and if that fails he then can consider bleeding it - no harm done trying first.

With the fuel pump delivering full pressure, it just takes one injector to fire and there goes all the air in an instant, with air being far less dense than the fuel.

Note that I have done this myself without the need for calling in the expertise of my buddies.

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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-11-2007, 06:26 PM Thread Starter
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Great info guys. Where's the "button" you mention for bleeding if I need to do that? Is it at the end of the injector bar that the P/R mounts on?
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-11-2007, 07:40 PM Thread Starter
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Another problem................where are the "buttons" on the clip that you push on to get the fitting off the regulator? I see two "gripping places" on the flat sides but nothing on the part will move when I push on them.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-11-2007, 09:46 PM
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those are the buttons...you have to push both of them in at the same time before the fitting will let go.

the valve for bleeding that he is talking about is on the top of the fuel rail and is covered by a cap. when you take the cap off it looks just like a valve on the valve stem of a tire. push the pin in the center of that valve just like you're letting the air out of a tire and wait til you see fuel. i would actually recommend doing it the way ron said because that's basically the way i did it and it's less complicated. when an injector opens all the air will be let out of the fuel lines and fuel rail. there will be enough pressure to push all the air out.

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